• Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my SUV" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your leather interior, please post in the Interior section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.
  • Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop

Oil Filter Housing

BDave

New member
Joined
Feb 5, 2021
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Did an oil change and was not happy with the plastic filter housing. It would not re-seat well; maybe it was the cold day. I had read to only tighten by hand, but this left about a 1/4" gap. Tried to tighten it up with wrench, took it down, drove it fine; but the result is a slow leak. Took it to a local mechanic who could find nothing wrong with filter cap.

So question: is it possible for the filter housing to crack further up inside? Has this happened to anyone, and was it a home repair?

Thanks
 
Are there two seals installed; one on the cap and the other one on the engine?
 
Are there two seals installed; one on the cap and the other one on the engine?
I never touched the one up on the engine, and this was the first oil change , so assume it's there. Installed new o-ring on cap that came with stp filter.
 
Make sure the filter is pushed in all the way so it breaks the inner seal.
______________________________
 
I never touched the one up on the engine, and this was the first oil change , so assume it's there. Installed new o-ring on cap that came with stp filter.
There should only be one o-ring on the filter cap if it’s like some other vehicles with a cartridge filter. I was asking if you noticed the used o-ring when you removed the cap the first time
 
There should only be one o-ring on the filter cap if it’s like some other vehicles with a cartridge filter. I was asking if you noticed the used o-ring when you removed the cap the first time
Oh, I get it. Yes, removed old one. But this was first change and it was still in good shape. This is an extremely slow leak. Professional mechanic (not Kia) replaced filter today after thoroughly cleaning out housing; reseated new filter then cap with ring. After running for 4 minutes leak reappeared.
 
Hmmm
______________________________
 
That's helpful ---- in showing me that I'm in over my head! :)
I am probably heading to dealer and will get back with what they say. At least the drip is so slow I can drive there.
 
Professional mechanic (not Kia) replaced filter today ... reseated new filter then cap with ring. After running for 4 minutes leak reappeared.
Where exactaly is the leak on the filter assembly?

Did he use a new o-ring?
 
Make sure you wipe up the inside of the housing after pulling out the old filter. I think the residual oil that drips down to the weephole may leak a few drops after installing the new filter if you don't do the quick wipe.
______________________________
 
Just had mine in dealership with an oil leak. They found that the housing for the oil filter was cracked and would need to be replaced. The were "nice" enough to cover the cost of having it replaced. I found it suspicious that they were willing to cover the cost of the replacement since the vehicle is out of the basic 12K warranty. This sounds like this a common problem.
 
The weephole in the filter's plastic housing will seem to leak oil! This could be caused by residual oil. Or could be due to filter's sealing mechanism (or lack thereof). I noticed this twice already after changing the oil. More importantly--how to make sure the filter cap's O-ring is properly seated. Next is how tight is tight when closing the filter housing? When I first change the oil (1,700 miles), I marked the cap with a Sharpie line aligning this to the weephole before I opened the filter housing. After the oil change, I closed the filter housing by making sure that when I made the last twist, the Sharpie line on the cap was aligned with the weephole. Then I tighten the filter cap just a little bit more (Sharpie line passing the weephole just a few mm) but being careful not to over tighten it to avoid cracking it. Aside from being short 1.5 quarts of oil when I measured what I got out at yesterday's oil change (after 3.500 miles), I didn't find anything more alarming--leak, drips, or any sign of oil on the floor--I always look for oil leak (an old habit). Oh, I also noticed being short of 1 quart at 1,700 oil change, btw. The skid plate had no oil residue or stain when I inspected it during the oil change. But yeah, there seemed a leak or seepage coming from the weephole right after the oil change. This could be "residual oil that drips to the weephole"--if in a very small and limited amount! Next time, I have to remember the "quick wipe"! Or a true leak due to wrong O-ring seating. Or improperly torqued oil filter housing cap. This is easy to see because the leak will be undeniable--oil drips right away! But TBH, I never torqued! Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Sorry to hear about your issue, hope there’s isn’t any damage to the oil filter housing. Get yourself a torque wrench if you don’t have one, as the oil filter housing should be torqued at 35 NM (I set my wrench for 25 lb/ft) and it does the job.
 
No issues here.

Observations.

I always use a torque wrench. Adds 2 minutes to the job.

There is a lot of resistance when putting the filter back on because it needs to “break” the center of the paper filter cap open as it is installed.

Always put oil on the new o-rings.

I am sticking to the OEM filters, which I buy at the dealership. People argue there are better filters out there in terms of filtration efficiency. The issue with the improved efficiency is the increase in flow resistance which could have other negative impacts. Doesn’t make a lot of sense to me to filter out more particles when doing so comes at the cost of actually making more particles…

This design/experience is pretty much the same as my other vehicles with the cartridge style filter/housing.
______________________________
 
No issues here.

Observations.

I always use a torque wrench. Adds 2 minutes to the job.

There is a lot of resistance when putting the filter back on because it needs to “break” the center of the paper filter cap open as it is installed.

Always put oil on the new o-rings.

I am sticking to the OEM filters, which I buy at the dealership. People argue there are better filters out there in terms of filtration efficiency. The issue with the improved efficiency is the increase in flow resistance which could have other negative impacts. Doesn’t make a lot of sense to me to filter out more particles when doing so comes at the cost of actually making more particles…

This design/experience is pretty much the same as my other vehicles with the cartridge style filter/housing.
Yes! to OEM filters. Oil flow is critical and it's often the case that third-party oil filters are too restrictive. While this is anecdotal evidence, I'm personally aware of several owners of German cars who had premature engine failures that were likely caused or at least facilited by, the use of other than OEM oil filters. This may not be an issue for the Telluride - German engines typically operate at higher oil pressures than others - but it's not worth taking the chance. The cost premium to use OEM oil filters is trivial when amortized over the life of the car.
 
I did my first oil change with the OEM filter and I thought I had cracked the housing...turns out it was just the stupid paper filter cap thing breaking into place. Scared the $&*% outta me. I was nowhere close to the torque specs though.

The undersides of these cars are really well designed.
 
The weephole in the filter's plastic housing will seem to leak oil! This could be caused by residual oil. Or could be due to filter's sealing mechanism (or lack thereof). I noticed this twice already after changing the oil. More importantly--how to make sure the filter cap's O-ring is properly seated. Next is how tight is tight when closing the filter housing? When I first change the oil (1,700 miles), I marked the cap with a Sharpie line aligning this to the weephole before I opened the filter housing. After the oil change, I closed the filter housing by making sure that when I made the last twist, the Sharpie line on the cap was aligned with the weephole. Then I tighten the filter cap just a little bit more (Sharpie line passing the weephole just a few mm) but being careful not to over tighten it to avoid cracking it. Aside from being short 1.5 quarts of oil when I measured what I got out at yesterday's oil change (after 3.500 miles), I didn't find anything more alarming--leak, drips, or any sign of oil on the floor--I always look for oil leak (an old habit). Oh, I also noticed being short of 1 quart at 1,700 oil change, btw. The skid plate had no oil residue or stain when I inspected it during the oil change. But yeah, there seemed a leak or seepage coming from the weephole right after the oil change. This could be "residual oil that drips to the weephole"--if in a very small and limited amount! Next time, I have to remember the "quick wipe"! Or a true leak due to wrong O-ring seating. Or improperly torqued oil filter housing cap. This is easy to see because the leak will be undeniable--oil drips right away! But TBH, I never torqued! Thanks.

Sorry to hear about your issue, hope there’s isn’t any damage to the oil filter housing. Get yourself a torque wrench if you don’t have one, as the oil filter housing should be torqued at 35 NM (I set my wrench for 25 lb/ft) and it does the job.

^^^what these guys said...picked up a better torque wrench from Amazon (EPAuto was the brand)...i plan to only use this one for oil changes...mine had residual oil or a tiny leak cause i only torque'd to 29 N*m (that's as high as the wrench i had went)...i'd rather it leak a little than crack that stupid plastic housing...so I got back under and torqued to 35N*m when i got the new wrench in and it was fine...i also installed a fumoto valve...photos below

 
Does anyone make a metal filter housing you can buy as a replacement to the plastic one that can crack.? I have no idea if it has to be plastic for some reason or if it is plastic to cut down cost.? Still waiting for my Telluride, so trying to read up on the forum what to expect when I get it.
 




Back
Top