15,000 mile oil change

[2020Telly]

I was researching about maintenance and warranty and learned that the FTC has a policy on this. It is illegal for the dealer to deny cover because you had required maintenance done somewhere else. You must keep records. Kia's warranty manual states routine maintenance must be a reliable vendor and of a quality that matches Kia.

I was taking my 2007 Toyota to the dealership for routine maintenance but it felt like I was getting the "your at xxx amount of miles so we need to do xxx". And while that approach applies to some things, not all the things they were trying to sale me. They have been trying to replace my entire power steering housing ($1800) for years because it has a small leak during the hot summer months. I have never had to add power steering fluid.

I did my research and found a local mechanic (father and son) business that was established in 1979 and only hires ASE certified technicians. I took them my Toyota, I got a full report with pictures of what they were looking at under the car. I was blown away at the thorough explanation. They even prioritized the work with time lines from immediate to 9 months. I plan to trust them with my Telly.

I agree with @Butch Cassidy find a reliable mechanic.

I heard the same thing, as long as you provide proof that you performed regularly scheduled maintenance outlined on page 7-11 for the items on pages 7-13 to 7-14 in the manual they should not deny warranty. Some things on the schedule do say "I" for inspect while others say "R" for replace. If you do your own oil changes you may have to provide receipts of the supplies, I guess.

Summary, other than a regular oil change and tire rotations/replacements, there are a lot of Inspects under 100,000 miles. Very few things require replacement while under the warranty period. If you do regular oil changes replace or clean the air filter regularly the only thing you have to really worry about is brake fluid at about 60,000 miles.

To replace as scheduled maintenance:

• oil and oil filter change every 7,500 miles
• "top tier fuel additives" every 7,500 miles
• cabin air filter every 15,000 miles
• air cleaner filter replace every 30,000 miles
• brake fluid every 60,000 miles
• spark plugs every 97,500 miles
• coolant replace at 120,000 miles then every 30,000 miles after

To inspect:

• drive belt inspect at first 60,000 miles, then inspect every 15,000 miles thereafter until it's time to replace
• batteries, brakes, refrigerant, shafts, boots, etc. all say inspect
• Automatic transmission fluid should never require service unless there is a problem in first 112,500 miles
• For AWD you have oil that needs inspection every 37,500 miles

Supposedly the AGM batteries are supposed to last 6-10 years while the conventional flooded batteries are 3-5 years.

 

[Big Country]

If you change the oil yourself (or provide oil to whoever changes it for you), any of today's oils that meet the new API SP and/or ILSAC GF-6 specs are going to be more than sufficient if you stick to Kia's recommended oil change intervals. That being said, Mobil has a great promotion right now where you can buy one of their best oils, the Extended Performance full synthetic, at places like Walmart for $24.95 a 5qt jug, and get a $15 rebate. That makes for an extremely cheap jug of high quality oil after the rebate.

Other than that just do as others have said and use a top tier gasoline, change your air filter regularly and run the fuel system cleaner through it and all should be good. If you want to change the oil at 5,000 miles as an extra precaution that's even more insurance against potential issues.

 

[Bridge4]

OFF TOPIC BUT NEEDS TO BE SAID AND I FEEL THE NEED TO DO IT IN CAPS BECAUSE I AM BLOWN AWAY AT HOW BADLY SOME PEOPLE ON HERE ARE ADVISING OTHERS. THE MISINFORMATION ON THIS SITE IS HORRIBLE AND ITS ALL OVER THIS WEBSITE ON ALMOST EVERY SINGLE TOPIC.

CAI
EXHAUST
ANY MODIFICATION TO THE AIR FLOW

DOES NOT DO A f&$%ing THING!!!!!! YOU WILL NOT GET A SINGLE HP. YOU WILL ONLY GET MORE NOISE.

WITHOUT RE-MAPPING MODERN ECU'S TO ACCEPT THE CHANGES THOSE ITEMS MAKE ALL OF THOSE THINGS ARE COMPLETE AND TOTAL WASTES OF MONEY FOR PERFORMANCE GAINS. ANYONE WHO SAYS DIFFERENT DOESNT KNOW BETTER OR IS A FLAT OUT LIAR.

 

[Senator20]

OFF TOPIC BUT NEEDS TO BE SAID AND I FEEL THE NEED TO DO IT IN CAPS BECAUSE I AM BLOWN AWAY AT HOW BADLY SOME PEOPLE ON HERE ARE ADVISING OTHERS. THE MISINFORMATION ON THIS SITE IS HORRIBLE AND ITS ALL OVER THIS WEBSITE ON ALMOST EVERY SINGLE TOPIC.

CAI
EXHAUST
ANY MODIFICATION TO THE AIR FLOW

DOES NOT DO A f&$%ing THING!!!!!! YOU WILL NOT GET A SINGLE HP. YOU WILL ONLY GET MORE NOISE.

WITHOUT RE-MAPPING MODERN ECU'S TO ACCEPT THE CHANGES THOSE ITEMS MAKE ALL OF THOSE THINGS ARE COMPLETE AND TOTAL WASTES OF MONEY FOR PERFORMANCE GAINS. ANYONE WHO SAYS DIFFERENT DOESNT KNOW BETTER OR IS A FLAT OUT LIAR.

You forgot one thing. Those 99 dollars performance chips do not work.

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[Bridge4]

You forgot one thing. Those 99 dollars performance chips do not work.

I've never tried one, and if it "tunes" the car, there is potential one could, but if its just a generic chip....Well I see that not going to well

 

[2020Telly]

OFF TOPIC BUT NEEDS TO BE SAID AND I FEEL THE NEED TO DO IT IN CAPS BECAUSE I AM BLOWN AWAY AT HOW BADLY SOME PEOPLE ON HERE ARE ADVISING OTHERS. THE MISINFORMATION ON THIS SITE IS HORRIBLE AND ITS ALL OVER THIS WEBSITE ON ALMOST EVERY SINGLE TOPIC.

CAI
EXHAUST
ANY MODIFICATION TO THE AIR FLOW

DOES NOT DO A f&$%ing THING!!!!!! YOU WILL NOT GET A SINGLE HP. YOU WILL ONLY GET MORE NOISE.

WITHOUT RE-MAPPING MODERN ECU'S TO ACCEPT THE CHANGES THOSE ITEMS MAKE ALL OF THOSE THINGS ARE COMPLETE AND TOTAL WASTES OF MONEY FOR PERFORMANCE GAINS. ANYONE WHO SAYS DIFFERENT DOESNT KNOW BETTER OR IS A FLAT OUT LIAR.

Okay, first off chill out. This is a forum. A forum is meant for discussing things and if everyone knew everything then they would not be on a forum. I know you are directing this to me and I will mention that my post included the word "could" a few times.

I agree that an axle-back exhaust is for sound and not the same as a cat-back exhaust. But a cat-back exhaust does improve performance by lowering weight and improving the flow of your exhaust replacing the cat converter, by making it easier to exhaust more power is available to the engine. When I posted I did not realize that the Borla was an axle-back but since my post I believe it was learned that there is a cat-back exhaust made for the Palisade that may also work so I learned something.

A cold air intake does give a performance increase by giving more air to the naturally aspirated engine. It might be slight, but there is a couple HP gain with a cold air intake (not a replacement air filter). Same concept as exhaust, less restriction on the air intake, the engine works less and more power is given back to the engine.

I knew nothing about those chips and I only found one that advertised gains on a Kia engine with testimonials. If it's just a piece of plastic with a bunch of lights then I agree it is a waste of $100. But the PCT brand appears to be the most legit looking of these, so I thought if it helped give out a little torque it might improve the fact that the Kia Telluride was made without a tow mode.

I'm sorry you feel I misinformed you by posting a suggestion on a forum conversation thread. I never suggested I'm a source of truth over a Kia manual.

 

[Bridge4]

Okay, first off chill out. This is a forum. A forum is meant for discussing things and if everyone knew everything then they would not be on a forum. I know you are directing this to me and I will mention that my post included the word "could" a few times.

I agree that an axle-back exhaust is for sound and not the same as a cat-back exhaust. But a cat-back exhaust does improve performance by lowering weight and improving the flow of your exhaust replacing the cat converter, by making it easier to exhaust more power is available to the engine. When I posted I did not realize that the Borla was an axle-back but since my post I believe it was learned that there is a cat-back exhaust made for the Palisade that may also work so I learned something.

A cold air intake does give a performance increase by giving more air to the naturally aspirated engine. It might be slight, but there is a couple HP gain with a cold air intake (not a replacement air filter). Same concept as exhaust, less restriction on the air intake, the engine works less and more power is given back to the engine.

I knew nothing about those chips and I only found one that advertised gains on a Kia engine with testimonials. If it's just a piece of plastic with a bunch of lights then I agree it is a waste of $100. But the PCT brand appears to be the most legit looking of these, so I thought if it helped give out a little torque it might improve the fact that the Kia Telluride was made without a tow mode.

I'm sorry you feel I misinformed you by posting a suggestion on a forum conversation thread. I never suggested I'm a source of truth over a Kia manual.

Just no. Believe all the marketing you want, but it doesn't do anything. You can blow all the air around you want, but if your computer isn't allowing for the new inputs then it isn't doing a damn thing but making noise.

Losing weight will always gain speed, but it doesn't change HP.

Call kia, ask them "hey if I add a CAI and new Catback will I make gains? and they will say NO. Without an updated computer nothing changes anything besides weight.

 

[Bridge4]

Okay, @2020Telly this is a good article. I am off a little, it can give you a tiny tiny boost if the ECU understands more air is coming in, but it can't be fully appreciated without tuning it. So apologies because I came super hard and you are sorta right, but I still stick by my points that they are essentially worthless without tuning.

Do I Need A Tune After Installing Cold Air Intake? | Car Performance Boss

No you don't need to tune for cold air intake. It will work well, without a tune and it will not cause any damage to your car. Tuning your car is expensive and for doing it only to optimize a cold air intake is not worth the money.

carperformanceboss.com

"You might be wondering – don’t cars have oxygen sensors? they should know that there’s extra oxygen in the incoming air. This is partially true. Cars do have oxygen sensors – but they are located after the combustion chamber at the exhaust system. This means, your car will know that there’s extra oxygen, but only after the combustion are done. We need the car to know about the extra oxygen before the combustion happens, not after!

So if you tune your car for the new cold air intake, your car will know to inject more fuel with the increased airflow and oxygen. This results in a possible increase of even more horsepower – just slightly though. This also means that your cold air intake is utilized at its maximum. Yay! Sounds pretty good huh? Well, yeah – except the cost to tune your car starts at about $400. Yikes!"

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[2020Telly]

Okay, @2020Telly this is a good article. I am off a little, it can give you a tiny tiny boost if the ECU understands more air is coming in, but it can't be fully appreciated without tuning it. So apologies because I came super hard and you are sorta right, but I still stick by my points that they are essentially worthless without tuning.

Do I Need A Tune After Installing Cold Air Intake? | Car Performance Boss

No you don't need to tune for cold air intake. It will work well, without a tune and it will not cause any damage to your car. Tuning your car is expensive and for doing it only to optimize a cold air intake is not worth the money.

carperformanceboss.com

"You might be wondering – don’t cars have oxygen sensors? they should know that there’s extra oxygen in the incoming air. This is partially true. Cars do have oxygen sensors – but they are located after the combustion chamber at the exhaust system. This means, your car will know that there’s extra oxygen, but only after the combustion are done. We need the car to know about the extra oxygen before the combustion happens, not after!

So if you tune your car for the new cold air intake, your car will know to inject more fuel with the increased airflow and oxygen. This results in a possible increase of even more horsepower – just slightly though. This also means that your cold air intake is utilized at its maximum. Yay! Sounds pretty good huh? Well, yeah – except the cost to tune your car starts at about $400. Yikes!"

I will agree with you that yes, tuning will always help. But tuning in a garage with rollers and a vacuum exhausting toxic air is not exactly real world conditions. I'm not sure how often you drive in 100F+ deg weather, but I do know that hot air is less dense than cold that's why it rises. Humid air has even less oxygen. If you drive in hot and humid weather your mpg goes down because your ECU is trying to give you power by supplying oxygen but the warm air in the more restrictive air box has less oxygen so it has to work harder. I think that's the science behind supplying more dense colder air with less restriction, the colder air allows the engine to perform better because it's not working as hard. I've also had older cars with Mass Air Flow sensors that were installed inline with air intake and supplying error codes periodically to the dash and the ECU wasn't working the way it should. A $10 MAF cleaner spray hit and the car immediately drove better and the error code went away, so I think that means that the older ECU was doing what it could with the information it was being given, but in a sense simple tuning could just mean making sure everything is reading temperatures accurately and that temperature of the air does make a difference on intake for a combustion engine. In terms of exhaust, a long time ago I had a catalytic converter fall out. On the drive to the muffler shop I noticed a peppier engine (that was very loud) at lower RPMs and despite the noise my GM motor actually ran smoother. I think I learned that by the hot air leaving faster from the engine it was able to perform better. I know a cat-back exhaust is not a turbocharger, but it does help your engine get rid of what is doesn't need faster and I think that means it helps it perform better. Having owned and worked on air-cooled VW engines and commuting on an air-cooled motorcycle, I know outside temperature impacts the engine a lot (especially without a radiator.)

 

[Bridge4]

I will agree with you that yes, tuning will always help. But tuning in a garage with rollers and a vacuum exhausting toxic air is not exactly real world conditions. I'm not sure how often you drive in 100+ deg weather, but I do know that hot air is less dense than cold that's why it rises. Humid air has even less oxygen. If you drive in hot and humid weather your mpg goes down because your ECU is trying to give you power by supplying oxygen but the warm air in the the more restrictive air box has less oxygen so it has to work harder. I think that's the science behind supplying more dense colder air with less restriction, the colder air allows the engine to perform better because it's not working as hard. I've also had older cars with Mass Air Flow sensors that were installed inline with air intake and supplying error codes periodically to the dash and the ECU wasn't working the way it should. A $10 MAF cleaner spray hit and the car immediately drove better and the error code went away, so I think that means that the older ECU was doing what it could with the information it was being given, but in a sense simple tuning could just mean making sure everything is reading temperatures accurately and that temperature of the air does make a difference on intake for a combustion engine. In terms of exhaust, a long time ago I had a catalytic converter fall out. On the drive to the muffler shop I noticed a peppier engine (that was very loud) at lower RPMs and despite the noise my GM motor actually ran smoother. I think I learned that by the hot air leaving faster from the engine it was able to perform better. I know a cat-back exhaust is not a turbocharger, but it does help your engine get rid of what is doesn't need faster and I think that means it helps it perform better.

With older cars like you mention, I 100% agree that they find very clear and real additions in power to changing your cai and catback. I have a 2003 tacoma and I put a borla on it after the OEM rotted out and its peppier in my mind, even if only in my mind.

My main point of argument I guess is that on NEW cars, anything like last 5-6 years, they have dramatically reduced the effect they will have without changing the other inputs as well. I probably was not as clear and well written at 4am when I got all mad

 

[2020Telly]

With older cars like you mention, I 100% agree that they find very clear and real additions in power to changing your cai and catback. I have a 2003 tacoma and I put a borla on it after the OEM rotted out and its peppier in my mind, even if only in my mind.

My main point of argument I guess is that on NEW cars, anything like last 5-6 years, they have dramatically reduced the effect they will have without changing the other inputs as well. I probably was not as clear and well written at 4am when I got all mad

Fair enough. I think the internal combustion engine and ECU technology has advanced some, but not enough to make me convinced that they aren't impacted by outside temperature. By older I'm meant 1992 GM, 1998 Toyota, 2004 Toyota, 2004 Jeep/Chrysler. I just don't think newer cars have advanced that much. It's still the same core concept to mix air and fuel and create an explosion at an ideal operating temperature range. I think most manufacturers are just holding on long enough to start switching us over to electric motors and we'll have a whole new set of temperature vs performance issues with batteries.

Going back to the original intent of this thread . . . regular oil changes without question increase the life of a vehicle's engine and none of the performance issues you try are going to make a bit of difference if the oil and filter aren't replaced regularly. The old oil will make the engine work harder and give you more sluggish performance with less power.

 

[2020Telly]

BTW, if you want a real world example of misinformation, google "does hot and humid air impact fuel efficiency." The first hit is a .gov website telling you that warm air makes your car more aerodynamic and hot weather will increase your fuel efficiency because it lowers drag (immediately followed by running your AC will lower it). Then a few sites quoting that .gov website. Almost every other website points out the exact opposite. Hot and humid air has less oxygen so you burn more gas. Yay tax dollars!

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[Nightsky93]

@2020Telly and @Bridge4,
That’s quite the in-depth conversation to wake up to . For me I got the Borla axle back Exhaust for one thing, sound, to make my telluride a little different than the rest. That’s what I’ve got aftermarket exhaust for on any vehicle I’ve owned, the rumble ,it was never for weather or not I actually gained any hp.
As for the thread topic I choose
Home(DIY) option
Regular oil changes are something I love to do in my own garage. With 4 vehicles (mine,wife, 2 teenage drivers) I feel like I’m doing an oil change every second week . I always change the oil more frequent than the manufacture recommends too as I feel if I’m treating the vehicle better it’s gonna last me longer.

 

[Wiluride]

All I know, is that for me, a few extra HP, aren't worth even $50. I mean, like the potential of gaining 5HP, on a 291HP motor, I don't care. But hey, I'm a old man, who can get my thrills other ways than having 2% more HP.

The sound of air being sucked in an engine can be cool , we always used to turn the top of the air cleaner upside down, to open it up... the sound of a 4 barrel carb sucking on a V8 is still a wonderful thing to me, but I don't even have a V8 anymore.

But being a family man now, I can't hardly imagine putting a K&N air intake on my Telluride, if I were to do it, it would be more about sound than performance, but well I don't think I'm ever going to do it.

Axel back exhaust would also be 100% about sound for me... I probably won't ever do it on the Telluride, but I am actually kinda still thinking about it... at $500, not worth it to me, but maybe at $300 I would

Anyway, back to oil... $15 rebate on 5 quarts of Mobil Extended life oil, is kinda cool... that makes that oil about $2 a quart, if you get it at a good price to start with. Yet, I can walk into Costco and buy the Kirtland Syntentic for $2.5 a quart and never fill out any forms, etc... I hate rebates.

 

[Bridge4]

@2020Telly and @Bridge4,
That’s quite the in-depth conversation to wake up to . For me I got the Borla axle back Exhaust for one thing, sound, to make my telluride a little different than the rest. That’s what I’ve got aftermarket exhaust for on any vehicle I’ve owned, the rumble ,it was never for weather or not I actually gained any hp.
As for the thread topic I choose
Home(DIY) option
Regular oil changes are something I love to do in my own garage. With 4 vehicles (mine,wife, 2 teenage drivers) I feel like I’m doing an oil change every second week . I always change the oil more frequent than the manufacture recommends too as I feel if I’m treating the vehicle better it’s gonna last me longer.

All I know, is that for me, a few extra HP, aren't worth even $50. I mean, like the potential of gaining 5HP, on a 291HP motor, I don't care. But hey, I'm a old man, who can get my thrills other ways than having 2% more HP.

The sound of air being sucked in an engine can be cool , we always used to turn the top of the air cleaner upside down, to open it up... the sound of a 4 barrel carb sucking on a V8 is still a wonderful thing to me, but I don't even have a V8 anymore.

But being a family man now, I can't hardly imagine putting a K&N air intake on my Telluride, if I were to do it, it would be more about sound than performance, but well I don't think I'm ever going to do it.

Axel back exhaust would also be 100% about sound for me... I probably won't ever do it on the Telluride, but I am actually kinda still thinking about it... at $500, not worth it to me, but maybe at $300 I would

Anyway, back to oil... $15 rebate on 5 quarts of Mobil Extended life oil, is kinda cool... that makes that oil about $2 a quart, if you get it at a good price to start with. Yet, I can walk into Costco and buy the Kirtland Syntentic for $2.5 a quart and never fill out any forms, etc... I hate rebates.

I am not against the sound, as I said I have a borla, so I'm with you guys there! I do try to avoid the super loud exhausts tho, and I think borla is a good middle ground.

@willuride remember when 290 hp was basically a super car! Boy standards have changed in the last 30 years.

 

[2020Telly]

I am not against the sound, as I said I have a borla, so I'm with you guys there! I do try to avoid the super loud exhausts tho, and I think borla is a good middle ground.

@willuride remember when 290 hp was basically a super car! Boy standards have changed in the last 30 years.

I prefer torque over horsepower in an SUV/Truck. 291 HP is plenty for me. All the SUVs in this class are around 262 lb-ft of torque and that's enough for my hauling needs as I went from a small SUV to a minivan and that dropped me to 199 lb-ft for a couple years.

For those interested here's the cat-back for the Palisade that was mentioned. Ebay says it's not compatible with the Telluride yet. A bit more expensive than the axle-back Borla for the Telluride.

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[Senator20]

I am not against the sound, as I said I have a borla, so I'm with you guys there! I do try to avoid the super loud exhausts tho, and I think borla is a good middle ground.

@willuride remember when 290 hp was basically a super car! Boy standards have changed in the last 30 years.

I forgot one thing also higher octane gasoline does not = more power.

 

[Bridge4]

I forgot one thing also higher octane gasoline does not = more power.

Now this…. Manufacturers claim it does.

I don’t know enough to get passionate about this one tho! Not that I don’t love a good one.

 

[LookingforTelly]

I haven't taken the telly in yet, but I've gotten my Mazda's oil changed at a local-ish place called the Lube Center. I think it is a chain, but not a big one. You don't have to get out of the car, and I watch them do all of the work. They have a camera even showing the pit. When I got my tranny fluid changed in the past, I could watch them do the drains and refills (I asked them not to do the pressure flush). I get my state inspections there too. I have no complaints with the work or the pricing. They don't bother trying to upsell more than they have to. I haven't decided yet, but I'm probably going to take the Telly there.

 

[Jaggrey]

I had been taking my Telluride every 7500 miles as specified by the manual. I’m down in South Florida where it’s hot & humid a good amount of the year. My Mazda said because of this to change every 5000, but I didn’t see any mention of that in the manual. However when I was getting my oil changed for the second time they recommended switching to every 5000 miles instead of 7500, both because of the climate and also I had some crazy wear on my tires when they rotated them. I’ll need to replace those soon already.