2023 SX X-Line Stereo Upgrade - Where to start

[itschris]

So the only real disappointment with the Telly is the stereo. It may be 11 speakers but it’s wholly inadequate and begging for something.

It’s my understanding that the whole system is running if of one 11 channel amp. If true, I can’t imagine it had adequate power for any of it. My thought is step has to be power. My thought is two amps for the speakers and one mono amp for the sub which will like have to be augmented well. I don’t want to build boxes and take up space so that step will likely be under seat subs. But I do think step one should be real power.

Thoughts?

 

[itschris]

I have an appt at a local shop tomorrow after work. They’re a fairly high end shop representing most of the top brands I know. They have a completely comprehensive fab shop so they can build out anything that’s needed. I wanted to keep it simple though. We’ll see how it ends up.

 

[itschris]

Okay… quick report on shop #1:

“we’ll you have to do it right…. Blah… blah… blah”

$7 to $8K. Now I’m not saying that’s not legitimate for a complete replacement with really high end stuff but come the F on already.

He said they could do a new 11 channel amp with DSP for $$1,500 with another $1,500 for install.

Next…

 

[Jaggrey]

Wow that’s…. Money. Lol.

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[Socal949]

Definitely get a few quotes around town at least 3-4. Lets us know the price differences and what you end up going with. Maybe some pictures of the set up and how much better it sounds 😎

 

[itschris]

Definitely get a few quotes around town at least 3-4. Lets us know the price differences and what you end up going with. Maybe some pictures of the set up and how much better it sounds 😎

Yep. I’ll document if I get there. I get a shop wants to do a full blown balls to the wall install but putting a $7K stereo “upgrade” into a $55K car doesn’t make a lot of sense. I mean we’re not even talking a head unit.

There has to be a reasonable way to add an amp for say… just the front… and simply unplug the speakers from the factory amp to the new one. That should cost under a $1K total.

Yes… I know I should have a DSP installed and tuned out but I really think the system is just lacking power with a weak amp.

Also… i don’t want my entire cargo area filled with a huge sub box either. These places don’t seem to understand the client base they have available to them which are people like me with money but who also have common sense and have a life that requires use of the car they bought. I’m not 16 anymore driving my Mustang SVO around with four Alpine 10’s in a seventh order box with four monoblocks and an alternator from an ambulance.

If they were smart and good business people, they’d embrace people like me and come up with a decent range of stages of options starting at $1K on up. As a business person, I’d rather do 20 $1K and $2K jobs than wait around for someone to spend $10K on one install.

 

[anomalist]

As soon as I got my 2022 SX I had the same impulse - "I just paid $50k+ for a car, why are these speakers so bad?"
Nothing I did with the *factory* equalizer/levels was working. Bass boost was underwhelming, etc. Eventually I installed an aftermarket equalizer on my phone and it made a massive difference in quality. Using an Android phone/Android Auto, and Poweramp Equalizer, I was able to get a much better soundstage and balance.

Here is my current EQ for Poweramp. I don't have a picture, but I think in the car's EQ, I have bass/treble set to 4 and mids set to 3, with bass boost enabled. I can't guarantee it will come close to the quality you're looking for, but it may make a noticeable improvement.

Good luck.

 

[itschris]

As soon as I got my 2022 SX I had the same impulse - "I just paid $50k+ for a car, why are these speakers so bad?"
Nothing I did with the *factory* equalizer/levels was working. Bass boost was underwhelming, etc. Eventually I installed an aftermarket equalizer on my phone and it made a massive difference in quality. Using an Android phone/Android Auto, and Poweramp Equalizer, I was able to get a much better soundstage and balance.

Here is my current EQ for Poweramp. I don't have a picture, but I think in the car's EQ, I have bass/treble set to 4 and mids set to 3, with bass boost enabled. I can't guarantee it will come close to the quality you're looking for, but it may make a noticeable improvement.

Good luck.

View attachment 29118

I really appreciate it that. I’ll try to find something equivalent for my iPhone.

My biggest complaint is volume. I’ve done the talked about tips and tricks to the settings on the iPhone to help but I’m wondering if there’s just a limitation on the volume coming from the phones Bluetooth. Either way that’s just one issue. Like you… I’m just not happy with the overall sound.

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[ceenote]

As soon as I got my 2022 SX I had the same impulse - "I just paid $50k+ for a car, why are these speakers so bad

Agreed! I was at the dealership gettjng some work done and i told them this system sucks ass...imalso mentioned that my 2014 impala sounded wayyy better without and upgraded system... he said maybe u dont have it adjusted right..and i said no it sounds like shit!!

 

[ELCapiTRAN]

I'm not sure if anyone else's experience is the same as mine but bluetooth audio on the car is sub-par compared to audio via the connected usb port using AA/Carplay. Also in your streaming app, make sure you're using the highest quality setting. I have not tested audio via a USB stick. I just wish there was a way to change the head unit. i think that would improve sound quality a lot.

 

[itschris]

I'm not sure if anyone else's experience is the same as mine but bluetooth audio on the car is sub-par compared to audio via the connected usb port using AA/Carplay. Also in your streaming app, make sure you're using the highest quality setting. I have not tested audio via a USB stick. I just wish there was a way to change the head unit. i think that would improve sound quality a lot.

I honestly think it's poor amplification. You can't get 11 channels of high power, accurate power out of something smaller than a cigar box. I have an appt with a different shop over the weekend. They seemed to have a better view on things. We'll see.

 

[itschris]

I'm not sure if anyone else's experience is the same as mine but bluetooth audio on the car is sub-par compared to audio via the connected usb port using AA/Carplay. Also in your streaming app, make sure you're using the highest quality setting. I have not tested audio via a USB stick. I just wish there was a way to change the head unit. i think that would improve sound quality a lot.

You are definitely correct on wired vs not. I read a bunch of stuff about the limitations of Blutooth. I also think the phone somehow restricts the signal. I made several changes to the settings on my iphone that seemed to help and played with the EQ choices. The "NIGHT" setting is definitely the one that makes things better as noted by many articles about it. I also changes everything to lossless and for whatever reason putting ATMOS set to Always made some discernible differences. All of these are just my observations... I don't have "golden ears" nor did I do any instrumentational analysis to back up what I'm saying... this is just me sitting in my driving blasting music and changing setting real time.

The wired connection does make a huge difference... especially in bass response and I think volume is better although it could just seem that way with the better overall resolution of the music. But it all seems better, however, so I guess I'll be using a wired connection going forward. I just need to find a good solution for a phone holder in the car. I'm not going to block my a/c vents living in Florida nor do I want some monstrosity stuck to my dash. I'm going to look for a clamp mount to affix to the "wall" between the little coin holder and the cup holder. That seems like the most unobtrusive spot. So now I'll end up with 20 phone holders until i find the right one, but whatever.

I'm still going to pursue an upgrade though. I still think the amplification is sorely lacking and finding a better sub solution is also on the list. Either under seat or perhaps something custom in between the two rear seats... I dunno. I'll have to figure that out.

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[Scramschnits]

Heads up - If you do decide to chase this dragon, you're better off doing one of two things.

1. Replace the stock speakers with 50w equivalents, keep the H/K amp in place, and add a better subwoofer with a volume control knob to supplement - Maybe even just sticking with adding a subwoofer and calling it a day.,

or...

2. Go all out - Replace everything with active speakers, add a DSP, and bypass the H/K amp entirely. This will cause you to lose volume control through the infotainment, though. If you use a DSP that allows you to have a programmable volume number for Master Volume and Sub Volume (IE: Helix Ultra DSP + Conductor Remote), then you can make due.

I recently discovered the warning chimes are limited to the door woofers, so I ran a high-input signal from the door woofers into my DSP, and now I have warning chimes back. Since I intercepted the factory SPDIF signal anyway, I don't have to worry about providing two audio sources at the same time.

Currently, in the process of adding 3.5" midrange speakers to the car, via pods on the a-pillars...thinking about moving the tweeters there as well.

 

[itschris]

Heads up - If you do decide to chase this dragon, you're better off doing one of two things.

1. Replace the stock speakers with 50w equivalents, keep the H/K amp in place, and add a better subwoofer with a volume control knob to supplement - Maybe even just sticking with adding a subwoofer and calling it a day.,

or...

2. Go all out - Replace everything with active speakers, add a DSP, and bypass the H/K amp entirely. This will cause you to lose volume control through the infotainment, though. If you use a DSP that allows you to have a programmable volume number for Master Volume and Sub Volume (IE: Helix Ultra DSP + Conductor Remote), then you can make due.

I recently discovered the warning chimes are limited to the door woofers, so I ran a high-input signal from the door woofers into my DSP, and now I have warning chimes back. Since I intercepted the factory SPDIF signal anyway, I don't have to worry about providing two audio sources at the same time.

Currently, in the process of adding 3.5" midrange speakers to the car, via pods on the a-pillars...thinking about moving the tweeters there as well.

Good advice and I'm starting to agree that this is gonna put me down a rabbits hole if I pursue it any further. I bought a new phone mount (RAM Mount) and now only use a wired connection. Like I said... it's better but not great, but the setup is working quite nice. I'm just going to live with it for now.

 

[berryboy808]

Agreed! I was at the dealership gettjng some work done and i told them this system sucks ass...imalso mentioned that my 2014 impala sounded wayyy better without and upgraded system... he said maybe u dont have it adjusted right..and i said no it sounds like shit!!

😂😂😂

 

[scottw324]

So the only real disappointment with the Telly is the stereo. It may be 11 speakers but it’s wholly inadequate and begging for something.

It’s my understanding that the whole system is running if of one 11 channel amp. If true, I can’t imagine it had adequate power for any of it. My thought is step has to be power. My thought is two amps for the speakers and one mono amp for the sub which will like have to be augmented well. I don’t want to build boxes and take up space so that step will likely be under seat subs. But I do think step one should be real power.

Thoughts?

It's inadequate for some. For others, it is just fine. Honestly, it is leaps and bounds better than the stock base 2013 Explorer I had before.
For listening to Podcast and casual music, it's just fine.

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[itschris]

It's inadequate for some. For others, it is just fine. Honestly, it is leaps and bounds better than the stock base 2013 Explorer I had before.
For listening to Podcast and casual music, it's just fine.

For podcasting… as long as you can hear the person talk, you’re systems good. For music lovers who dig their tunes, it falls way short.

The lasted for me in my search is that I’ve found a shop that actually understands the issues with new systems in new cars and what people like me are after. After a couple of good discussions, step one would
Be to build a sub box between the two rear seats. I’d order A console top so that it looks factory and they’d build it in such a way that it looks like it belongs there. There will be a mono amp driving that located in the rear hidden cubby. There will need to be a line level doodad. Phase two would be additional amps for real power to the other speakers. Phase three would be all new speakers. It starts at about $5K for phase one depending on what equipment I choose. It could be a lot more or a little bit less depending. With just some minor adjustments they think I’d be quite happy with just that upgrade.

 

[scottw324]

I love listening to music as well and can still hear everything just fine. Quality is relative. All depends on your own perception and expectations. With that said, I respect it may not meet everyone’s needs/desires and you will upgrade components of the system to suit your needs.

With that said, the one thing I will mention is that whatever you upgrade, $5K or more, will probably be lost in trade in value when you decide to upgrade. So you are merely investing the money into the upgrades for your own pleasure during your time owning it. I know if I was looking on a lot for a used one and it had the upgraded stereo components in it, I wouldn’t be paying any more than fair market value, certainly not $5K+ for a stereo. That or you will have to rip out anything in there and sell the speakers/amps or reinstall in a new vehicle, which may or may not work.

 

[itschris]

I love listening to music as well and can still hear everything just fine. Quality is relative. All depends on your own perception and expectations. With that said, I respect it may not meet everyone’s needs/desires and you will upgrade components of the system to suit your needs.

With that said, the one thing I will mention is that whatever you upgrade, $5K or more, will probably be lost in trade in value when you decide to upgrade. So you are merely investing the money into the upgrades for your own pleasure during your time owning it. I know if I was looking on a lot for a used one and it had the upgraded stereo components in it, I wouldn’t be paying any more than fair market value, certainly not $5K+ for a stereo. That or you will have to rip out anything in there and sell the speakers/amps or reinstall in a new vehicle, which may or may not work.

I have full understanding of value. If I decide to move forward with the upgrade, I have zero worries about recouping the money. That’s not even remotely part of the equation. Given my commute is about 40 minutes one way, that a lot of time to reap the value. I sort of feel like I’m worth the five grand. However, it’s not a small amount of money and I feel pretty sure that $5k is the entry price to so things right so if that amount of money is a burden or you need to get it back, I wouldn’t do it.

 

[PittPa]

What I'm growing tired of is the continuous comment of " I just spent $50k blah blah blah" and this and that isn't at the high end of what's expected. In 2023, the average new car price is $49,388. I'll admit I'm probably older than most but I'm not using car prices from 1985 as the norm in 2023. The Telluride is an average priced car with an average sound system to some. About what I would expect.