Telluride full stereo upgrade experience - Part 1 Processor and amp

Bohen

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Ah OK, I saw somewhere on some web forum someone say the LOC removed some part of the signal like head unit processing, but wouldn't be surprised if someone on the internet gave bad info, haha. Once I get the Sub and sub amp in, then I might look into one of those DM units from audio control or any other one, I see JL has similar hardware but with every DSP you see great reviews and then a few terrible reviews of the same product, so would have to look into them more.

So far it sounds pretty good. I was originally going to put the C1's in, but went up to the next level, and put soundskins in all the doors. Ran a massive sky high audio OFC 0/1 gauge wire in from the battery so I can power up two amps eventually. The only disappointment in doing this project was not being able to run out new wires to the door speakers, but it still sounds very good.!

And if I only would have cut the wires on day 1, I could have saved about 6-8 hours of trying everything possible to get wire out the doors. haha, having to do this outside in the driveway in 95 degree Florida heat for 2 days was not the most fun either but the garage is still loaded with moving boxes from the move to this new house so had nowhere to put the
 

Bohen

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What do you recommend to use in between the head unit and sending a signal to the app for the subwoofer, 1st and 2nd choice ?

Also what do you recommend to replace the door speakers top 3 please.

I like the idea of running aids but I do use that compartment for items.



I am thinking of running either JBL's pre amp subwoofer, Rockford fosgate p500-12 .

I like the option that everything is contained in one package .



Thanks again 🤙
 

eebling

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What do you recommend to use in between the head unit and sending a signal to the app for the subwoofer, 1st and 2nd choice ?

Also what do you recommend to replace the door speakers top 3 please.

I like the idea of running aids but I do use that compartment for items.



I am thinking of running either JBL's pre amp subwoofer, Rockford fosgate p500-12 .

I like the option that everything is contained in one package .



Thanks again 🤙
I dont have much advice on the different options out there. I had a friend many years ago that had an all JL sound system in an expedition and it was the best sounding of all my friends that had systems, so I went with JL speakers and amps for this. I dont think many people will say JL is a bad option, but there are many other brands out there at all different price points. I wanted to stay near the $2,500 mark for all components purchased so went with JL c2's for all the door speakers, a JL rd400 amp, the LC7i Loc from audio controls, sky high OFC wire for all the power and grounds, a 10tw1-4 sub and rd500/1 for the monoblock amp for the sub(ordering that amp this week) and two rolls of sound skins pro for the 4 doors. Other various things like fused distribution block and inline fuse on the main power was EFX delta. Sounds better than any stock Telluride driving around town, but you could spend 15k on custom system at a shop if that's what you are looking for. I just want something that sounds pretty good, and that's what I got currently and haven't even put the sub in yet.

I am also trying to take up as little space as possible in the car, I absolutely do not want a sub cab that takes up much of any useable space in the car, so bought a JL 10tw1-4 sub, fits in a tiny enclosure, gets good ratings, and will give me enough bass to be satisfied. There are other people on here that can give way better advice on different options/brands.
Eventually I will probably swap the LC7i out for the dm608 mentioned on here or the JL counterpart, or anything that is good in the same price range, but haven't done much of any research on those yet.

If you have the SX prestige with the Premium sound, maybe you can use what is pre wired in the car and have less labor to install aftermarket stuff, but not sure how the SX sound system is setup and what kinds of amps they have and where they are located. I am under the impression there is an amp and sub already so maybe some of the wiring leg work is already done if you just want to upgrade components.
 
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eebling

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Wanted to post as others have questions regarding feasibility etc. I of course kept the infotainment system as is, but to say that the OEM audio in base or upgrade is underwhelming is an understatement.

Products used: It starts with how to properly get a signal from the factory infotainment – I chose an Audio Control DM-608 for this task. It has wicked good fidelity and solves multiple issues. You could use a simple line level converter with imo poor results. The DM608 allows me to de-EQ the factory EQ’d signal and send something flat and clean to the amp, additionally it providers for crossovers, digital time alignment (for that absolutely perfect drivers seat experience) and a wired knob for subwoofer level and EQ choice.

I have a wholesale line on Kenwood Excelon Reference so went with their 5 Channel amp (XR901-5) (which I have experience with and tbh is near the fidelity of my Focal products at ½ the cost; NEVER thought I would say that about a Kenwood product) and 1st time ever using a single Kenwood speaker, the Reference XR-1603HR 6.5” separates in front and XR-1701 coaxial for rea. As for the subwoofer I chose a DC Audio Level 2 10” Dual 4ohm for output, fidelity and matching with the available amp power.


I molded some ABS to mount the fuse holder next to the battery and routed wire around the back of the battery for a more stealth appearance. Getting through the firewall was ridiculously easy, there are great landmarks and factory grommets to choose from.

Getting the audio signal was easier than expected, drivers front and rear can be grabbed in the kick panel and passengers both in the passenger kick panel. I was able to make connections behind the molex box adding to a cleaner install. I routed the line level to the processor and new speaker signal from the amp back to the kick panel, making all signal connections behind the box; super clean and super easy!


View attachment 22993 View attachment 22995 View attachment 22996 View attachment 22997 View attachment 22994
Did you run a ground wire all the way back through the firewall and straight to the battery.? Just wondering where you grounded. I sanded the area under one of the front passenger seat bolts and grounded there, using an ohm meter, it seems to be a very good ground when testing it against the grounding point up under the front kick panel, but wonder if it is "OK" to use the seat bolt method.... Some sources online seem to argue not to do it there, others say its fine as long as it is a good ground.! Thanks for any info.
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Teknobenji

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Did you run a ground wire all the way back through the firewall and straight to the battery.? Just wondering where you grounded. I sanded the area under one of the front passenger seat bolts and grounded there, using an ohm meter, it seems to be a very good ground when testing it against the grounding point up under the front kick panel, but wonder if it is "OK" to use the seat bolt method.... Some sources online seem to argue not to do it there, others say its fine as long as it is a good ground.! Thanks for any info.
You always want to ground as close to the amp as possible; factory bolts can be used if you grind down to bare metal as you did, but aren’t always the best option for many reasons including logical routing of cables. I grind bare metal in a close, logical place near the amp ( in this case the front edge of the floor pan under the drivers seat) and pin the ground with self tapping ground screws. I’m sure your seat bolt is fine; particularly if you checked resistance. Hope that helps!
 
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G-718349

You always want to ground as close to the amp as possible; factory bolts can be used if you grind down to bare metal as you did, but aren’t always the best option for many reasons including logical routing of cables. I grind bare metal in a close, logical place near the amp ( in this case the front edge of the floor pan under the drivers seat) and pin the ground with self tapping ground screws. I’m sure your seat bolt is fine; particularly if you checked resistance. Hope that helps!
Thanks, ya I sanded to metal, used a copper terminal ring on the ground wire, put the dielectric grease on the surfaces, had near zero reading on the ohm meter, music sounds great, so was thinking it's probably a good ground, but then saw some post on some forum that said even if you have a good reading on an ohm meter, you still might not have a ground that can handle the amount of power flowing through it.

I only have an rd400 amp for my main speakers at 75wattsx4 channel and have the amp gains set to only about 1/4 and that is loud enough for me.! The sub amp that is going into the system is the jl xd300/1v2 and that is a max 200 watts at 4ohm and will probably only have its gain set to half way, so it's not like I have a few thousand watts of power to try to ground.

I also read the telluride is a unibody construction with "a lot of steel" so hoping it is a solid ground. I could maybe reach one of the factory ground points but I cut some length of my 0/1 guage wire I'm using as the ground and don't want to buy more.! Unless I go the route many have mentioned and run an 0/1 gauge wire all the way back out to the battery, but I don't think my system has anywhere near the power to require that. I guess time will tell. Haha
 

eebling

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You always want to ground as close to the amp as possible; factory bolts can be used if you grind down to bare metal as you did, but aren’t always the best option for many reasons including logical routing of cables. I grind bare metal in a close, logical place near the amp ( in this case the front edge of the floor pan under the drivers seat) and pin the ground with self tapping ground screws. I’m sure your seat bolt is fine; particularly if you checked resistance. Hope that helps!
Ya man thanks, everything seems to work well, there was just some post on some online forum about even if your ohm meter reads super low and looks like you have a great ground connection, that it might still not be able to handle the amount of power that is going to ground. I only have the rd400 @ 75x4 and I got the XD300/1v2 which will only be at 200 watts @4ohm and I have the gains on my main amp at about 1/4 of max and will most likely have the sub amp ( once installed ) at about 1/2 gain, so not sending a lot of power through the system.

They did say the problem is car specific and some cars have no problems using a seat bolt as ground, the Telluride is a unibody construction and " a lot of steel " from one source at kia so I'm guessing it should be good. Time will tell. Other people on that same forum said they always have used seat bolts and never had any problems while others in the same discussion said you should "NEVER" use a seat bolt and will cause all kinds of problems, so like everything on the internet, major differences of opinion on what is good. Haha
 

Bohen

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Ya man thanks, everything seems to work well, there was just some post on some online forum about even if your ohm meter reads super low and looks like you have a great ground connection, that it might still not be able to handle the amount of power that is going to ground. I only have the rd400 @ 75x4 and I got the XD300/1v2 which will only be at 200 watts @4ohm and I have the gains on my main amp at about 1/4 of max and will most likely have the sub amp ( once installed ) at about 1/2 gain, so not sending a lot of power through the system.

They did say the problem is car specific and some cars have no problems using a seat bolt as ground, the Telluride is a unibody construction and " a lot of steel " from one source at kia so I'm guessing it should be good. Time will tell. Other people on that same forum said they always have used seat bolts and never had any problems while others in the same discussion said you should "NEVER" use a seat bolt and will cause all kinds of problems, so like everything on the internet, major differences of opinion on what is good. Haha
What did you do about the auto stop feature on the Telluride ?
KIA did it backwards, it should be deactivated and push if want it enabled 🤨 .
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Teknobenji

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Ya man thanks, everything seems to work well, there was just some post on some online forum about even if your ohm meter reads super low and looks like you have a great ground connection, that it might still not be able to handle the amount of power that is going to ground. I only have the rd400 @ 75x4 and I got the XD300/1v2 which will only be at 200 watts @4ohm and I have the gains on my main amp at about 1/4 of max and will most likely have the sub amp ( once installed ) at about 1/2 gain, so not sending a lot of power through the system.

They did say the problem is car specific and some cars have no problems using a seat bolt as ground, the Telluride is a unibody construction and " a lot of steel " from one source at kia so I'm guessing it should be good. Time will tell. Other people on that same forum said they always have used seat bolts and never had any problems while others in the same discussion said you should "NEVER" use a seat bolt and will cause all kinds of problems, so like everything on the internet, major differences of opinion on what is good. Haha
What did you do about the auto stop feature on the Telluride ?
KIA did it backwards, it should be deactivated and push if want it enabled 🤨 .
 

eebling

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What did you do about the auto stop feature on the Telluride ?
KIA did it backwards, it should be deactivated and push if want it enabled 🤨 .
Haha ya, I always have to remember to push it when I start the car to deactivate the car turning off at stops lights. I pretty much always deactivate it. Maybe when the weather gets cooler I might leave it enabled to "save gas" but in the hot Florida summer, the car will turn off at a light and turn back on in 10-15sec to keep the ac cooling the car.
 

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Haha ya, I always have to remember to push it when I start the car to deactivate the car turning off at stops lights. I pretty much always deactivate it. Maybe when the weather gets cooler I might leave it enabled to "save gas" but in the hot Florida summer, the car will turn off at a light and turn back on in 10-15sec to keep the ac cooling the car.
My concern with that feature is running audio equipment and the vehicle turns off
 

eebling

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My concern with that feature is running audio equipment and the vehicle turns off
I guess it would depend on how you are triggering your amp. I am using an LC7i and it has a remote out wire that you can plug into your amp to turn it on. I found out through some testing, that I was getting the more desirable result of using no remote wire into my rd400 amp and just setting the amp's turn on mode to signal sense. It just picks up a signal on the wires when the car turns on and the amp turns on and doesn't turn off for about 30 seconds after the car is shut off.

Now I dont think you would have to worry about the car shutting off at a light and your amp turning off due to it not getting a signal to turn it on or keep it on, the radio/head unit is still outputting the signal when the car shuts off, but you might have a problem if you have a powerful system cranked and the car is off with the amps draining power from the battery, that I do not know. I don't know if the KIA would be "smart" enough to turn the car back on if it sensed a high drain on the battery or not. It might not shut the car off all together if you had a power hungry sound system running but I have no idea how that would work.
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What's your opinion on this product?
Siless Liner 157 mil (4 mm) 51 sqft Aluminum Foil Finish Car Sound Deadening & Heat Insulation Closed Cell Foam - PE Foam Sound Deadener https://a.co/d/cEpGcz2
 

eebling

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What's your opinion on this product?
Siless Liner 157 mil (4 mm) 51 sqft Aluminum Foil Finish Car Sound Deadening & Heat Insulation Closed Cell Foam - PE Foam Sound Deadener https://a.co/d/cEpGcz2
Personally I have only used soundskins pro sheets to add to this one car. I have never used anything else like dynamat or the product in the link. The soundskins was fairly easy to install and gets mostly good reviews. its like 100 buck for one roll though and one was enough to do 2 doors, so was 200$ to do all 4 doors. If you get soundskins, just be careful when handling the cut sheets, there is an aluminum layer and it is razor sharp, cut a few finger tips and had blood trails all over the driveway.
 

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A couple of questions on the install. When tapping into the speaker wires from the existing head unit on the 2022 S, are there 4 wires going to the front door (2 for tweeter and 2 for woofer) and then another 2 wires that runs to the rear doors? The alternative is only two wires to the front door and then the current set of component speakers in the front door have passive crossovers in the doors.

Trying to figure out if I need 4-channel or 6-channel inputs into a DSP and/or amp.

Also, if I go the DSP route, I don't have an RTA to tune. Is there an alternative to buying an expensive RTA and just using it once?

Thanks!
 

eebling

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This photo makes me cringe soooo bad.
Ha, I didnt want to cut any wires and told myself no way would I remove any seats in the car to put a sound system upgrade into it and then I was cutting all wires and have had 2 seats in and out multiple times. It gets a lot easier to pull the car apart after you start messing around with it. Haha and after talking to a local car shop that did a "professional" job the "right" way and told me they accidentally drilled too much of the molex adapter when trying to run new wires out of a car door( not a Telluride) and it cost like 4-6k and 3 weeks at the dealership to fix it, I figured I would rather cut the factory wires myself and know what is being done to my car. Its just a wire at the end of the day.
 
Looking to cover or replace the KIA emblems on your Telluride? Look no further than right here in our own forum store - where orders are shipped immediately!

Teknobenji

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A couple of questions on the install. When tapping into the speaker wires from the existing head unit on the 2022 S, are there 4 wires going to the front door (2 for tweeter and 2 for woofer) and then another 2 wires that runs to the rear doors? The alternative is only two wires to the front door and then the current set of component speakers in the front door have passive crossovers in the doors.

Trying to figure out if I need 4-channel or 6-channel inputs into a DSP and/or amp.

Also, if I go the DSP route, I don't have an RTA to tune. Is there an alternative to buying an expensive RTA and just using it once?

Thanks!
No, only two wires run into the doors and split to feed the mid and tweet; I mounted the passive crossovers for the Morel set I ended up settling on in the door panel; plenty of space inside for this for *most crossovers.

The factory set just has a capacity on the tweeter itself; typical OE garbage.

As for RTA out of 1000% curiosity we have compared an Audiocontrol RTA with a Dayton Audio RTA mic (Dayton Audio umm-6) which is a calibrated Rta mic- that plugs into an iPhone or iPad and used an app called “AudioTools” and results were frankly, more than acceptable- and the mic is about $25 and app $5- so there ya go!
 

Teknobenji

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Ha, I didnt want to cut any wires and told myself no way would I remove any seats in the car to put a sound system upgrade into it and then I was cutting all wires and have had 2 seats in and out multiple times. It gets a lot easier to pull the car apart after you start messing around with it. Haha and after talking to a local car shop that did a "professional" job the "right" way and told me they accidentally drilled too much of the molex adapter when trying to run new wires out of a car door( not a Telluride) and it cost like 4-6k and 3 weeks at the dealership to fix it, I figured I would rather cut the factory wires myself and know what is being done to my car. Its just a wire at the end of the day.
Seats are brainless to remove and it makes it so much easier- especially if you’re mounting something under it 🤣👍🏻
 

eebling

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Seats are brainless to remove and it makes it so much easier- especially if you’re mounting something under it 🤣👍🏻
Didn't say they took skill to remove, didn't want to take apart my car, until I started to, and now the desire to not cut a wire or remove a seat is long gone....
 


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