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Kia Telluride Forums
What's on your mind?
After owning model cars made by Acura, Toyota and Honda, my husband and I decided to go for a Kia after a family member boast about her Soul. Now after owing the 2021 Telluride for two weeks, the check engine light appeared twice. Of course, we checked the gas cap, but had to go to the service department. I have already purchased floor mats and a sun visor. Proud owners, what are your thoughts on sticking this through or going back to what I am familiar with?
Thanks
Debby “A Kia Newbie”
Thanks
Debby “A Kia Newbie”
40 Replies
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12196 views
Who all has a LIFT on there telluride and do you like it?
7 Replies
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157 views
I'll attempt to explain the operation of the "Coupler" and what goes wrong/right and why it makes noise on acceleration from a stop at turns.
Disclaimer: Whilst I'm a retired BMW Master Technician and ASE certified, I have not had hands on with the below product. Rather I've spoken with colleagues and have a good feel for the operation of the Coupler and what goes wrong?
I'll use some pictures I've pulled off of the internet and try to explain the function of the coupler, attached to the front part of the rear differential.
If you choose to, read on. And I'm not above criticism, if applicable. There's a saying in my business; "Always Learning."
It's similar albeit, different from the BMW's I've worked on most of my life. It's actually a bit more ingenious than BMW's system IMO.
The Kia (Hyundai) is primarily a Front Wheel Drive (FWD) vehicle. Whereas, the BMW is the reverse. The drivetrain is laid out with the engine in typical east/west configuration and the power being sent mostly to the front axle. Unless you drive like the proverbial 90 year old, a portion of the power being applied to the road is sent unto the rear axle. Surprisingly quite a bit. If you had a scan tool in your hand and watched "live data" you'd see anything from 15% to 45% of the drivetrain's power being sent to the rear axle, almost all of the time. This happens unbeknownst to the driver. Both as an aid and to lessen all of the torque being sent to the front axle ONLY. (BMW does this in reverse, being mostly a RWD vehicle.)
This comes about rather simply, the rear driveshaft always spins. Albeit w/o any connection, freewheels so to speak. The "Coupler" has an electric motor, akin to a windshield wiper motor. This rotates a an internal gear and applies some small clutches (think transmission friction clutches) inside the coupler that will now send power to the rear differential and share the load: Send some of the engines power through the rear axle.
This lessens the load on the front tires and distributes power to the ground more evenly.
This in turn, lessens the possibility of front wheel spin (traction control intervening) by shedding some of the load to the rear of the vehicle.
Also VERY useful during adverse traction events like ICE and SNOW. Shed the load to both axles, not just one. Two wheels grip better than one (both differentials are NOT limited slip) one in the front, the other in the rear.
Complete rear differential:.
Here's where things go awry;
There's an electric motor that on demand (anti slip system, which is always working) ramps up current to the little black motor on the coupler and starts to apply the clutches. This brings online the rear differential and applies torque to the rear wheels. In doing so, shares the load to the rear axle. Problem is that the clutches bang (constant on/off cycles) and the torque (power) is interrupted on, then off and on again over and over very fast. Think: applying on/off the clutch pedal in rapid succession. This produces a banging as the power is applied and released very quickly. There's a problem internally with the motor and the friction clutches (BMW had this also with many transfer cases which operate the same) that produce this banging sensation. Replacing the coupler (attached to the front of the differential, as a sort of on/off switch) with the updated part, solves the issue.
Coupler:
So it's the front half of the differential (used part in photo 1) that gets replaced with the new part (second picture) along with three new driveshaft bolts. This solves the banging noise (often mis-diagnosed as a rear shock) when taking off from a stop and going around the corner.
Please excuse the poor photos and "paint" altered photos. I'm away from my familiar desktop computer.
HTH someone?
Disclaimer: Whilst I'm a retired BMW Master Technician and ASE certified, I have not had hands on with the below product. Rather I've spoken with colleagues and have a good feel for the operation of the Coupler and what goes wrong?
I'll use some pictures I've pulled off of the internet and try to explain the function of the coupler, attached to the front part of the rear differential.
If you choose to, read on. And I'm not above criticism, if applicable. There's a saying in my business; "Always Learning."
It's similar albeit, different from the BMW's I've worked on most of my life. It's actually a bit more ingenious than BMW's system IMO.
The Kia (Hyundai) is primarily a Front Wheel Drive (FWD) vehicle. Whereas, the BMW is the reverse. The drivetrain is laid out with the engine in typical east/west configuration and the power being sent mostly to the front axle. Unless you drive like the proverbial 90 year old, a portion of the power being applied to the road is sent unto the rear axle. Surprisingly quite a bit. If you had a scan tool in your hand and watched "live data" you'd see anything from 15% to 45% of the drivetrain's power being sent to the rear axle, almost all of the time. This happens unbeknownst to the driver. Both as an aid and to lessen all of the torque being sent to the front axle ONLY. (BMW does this in reverse, being mostly a RWD vehicle.)
This comes about rather simply, the rear driveshaft always spins. Albeit w/o any connection, freewheels so to speak. The "Coupler" has an electric motor, akin to a windshield wiper motor. This rotates a an internal gear and applies some small clutches (think transmission friction clutches) inside the coupler that will now send power to the rear differential and share the load: Send some of the engines power through the rear axle.
This lessens the load on the front tires and distributes power to the ground more evenly.
This in turn, lessens the possibility of front wheel spin (traction control intervening) by shedding some of the load to the rear of the vehicle.
Also VERY useful during adverse traction events like ICE and SNOW. Shed the load to both axles, not just one. Two wheels grip better than one (both differentials are NOT limited slip) one in the front, the other in the rear.
Complete rear differential:.
Here's where things go awry;
There's an electric motor that on demand (anti slip system, which is always working) ramps up current to the little black motor on the coupler and starts to apply the clutches. This brings online the rear differential and applies torque to the rear wheels. In doing so, shares the load to the rear axle. Problem is that the clutches bang (constant on/off cycles) and the torque (power) is interrupted on, then off and on again over and over very fast. Think: applying on/off the clutch pedal in rapid succession. This produces a banging as the power is applied and released very quickly. There's a problem internally with the motor and the friction clutches (BMW had this also with many transfer cases which operate the same) that produce this banging sensation. Replacing the coupler (attached to the front of the differential, as a sort of on/off switch) with the updated part, solves the issue.
Coupler:
So it's the front half of the differential (used part in photo 1) that gets replaced with the new part (second picture) along with three new driveshaft bolts. This solves the banging noise (often mis-diagnosed as a rear shock) when taking off from a stop and going around the corner.Please excuse the poor photos and "paint" altered photos. I'm away from my familiar desktop computer.
HTH someone?
2 Replies
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1262 views
G-140433
Does any 433mhz tpms work in telluride
3 Replies
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1639 views
The salesman told me there is a tether for one seat, but a booster can fit on the other side. I have not checked this out. Can anyone confirm?
26 Replies
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26011 views
“Family car” not family friendly, they should have family package. What do ppl with 4 kids get. Suburban 
“Family car” not family friendly, they should have family package. What do ppl with 4 kids get. Suburban
That or mini-van
On a 2027 Telluride Hybrid, Can the mechanical key be used to start the engine, once you are inside the vehicle?
1 Replies
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90 views
AUTHORIZED VENDOR
For anyone researching floor mat options for the 2027 Telluride — there's a recent Instagram review that goes into material quality and fitment in detail.
If you have questions the video didn't cover, drop them below. We're here.
If you have questions the video didn't cover, drop them below. We're here.
0 Replies
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84 views
My 2023 EX with 20” wheels is about to get lifted 2” with a Truxxx kit. Work will be done by a local specialist. I am considering slightly more aggressive tires (not larger diameter) and new shocks.
My dealer said it stopped lifting Tellurides because some customers complained of premature wear on the shock absorbers.
I’d like to hear the experience of anyone who has had their Telluride lifted: installation advice, handling and mpg effects after the lift, suspension issues, etc.
My dealer said it stopped lifting Tellurides because some customers complained of premature wear on the shock absorbers.
I’d like to hear the experience of anyone who has had their Telluride lifted: installation advice, handling and mpg effects after the lift, suspension issues, etc.
53 Replies
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23765 views
Finished lifting my 2027 and wanted to put the info here for anyone else.
Went with the truxxx 2.5” lift, 18” Raceline Scout wheels, 35mm offset, falken wild peak A/T3 265/65/18’s for the tires.
Does not rub, even at full turn. Added about 3” in height overall.
Went with the truxxx 2.5” lift, 18” Raceline Scout wheels, 35mm offset, falken wild peak A/T3 265/65/18’s for the tires.
Does not rub, even at full turn. Added about 3” in height overall.
20 Replies
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2596 views
I have a 2020 Telluride with 54k miles and the service manager is recommending GDI Induction service. I can't find anything in the manual mentioning this service. Is it necessary or recommended?
3 Replies
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196 views
Safe to assume its M14? Want to buy a Fumoto valve before first oil change. Just looking to confirm thread size.
Super bonus if anyone can tell me if an extension is necessary or not too! lol
Super bonus if anyone can tell me if an extension is necessary or not too! lol
1 Replies
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141 views
