Audio Upgrade for 2023 EX: FR Speakers, Sub, Maybe DSP/Amp combo?

[rooty-j]

Thanks for any comments here. I want my audio to sound better, good enough, but not an overly expensive build. For example, in my last a ride, a Ford Expedition, I used the factory head unit to power a pair of $300 Focal component speakers up front. The Focals were high sensitivity speakers. I also added a LoC/Amp/Sub in the back. All of that was totally good enough. I love quality sound, I just use my 2-channel home setup for reference-grade listening.

For my 2023 EX, here's my rough plan. First, I'll install front speakers, either Infinity Reference REF-6530cx or Focal ISU 165. If they sound good, then I won't need a DSP amp. I'll then add a powered sub using a line output converter, like a LC7i. If those front speakers sound bad without added power, I'll add a 5-channel DSP amp, like a AudioControl D-6.1200 or JL Audio VX700/5i, with a passive sub. Dropping in front speakers is so easy that this is a simple experiment to take in phases.

Has anybody upgraded speakers using their stock head unit (non Harmon), and how do they sound?

It seems that a DSP amp offers the cleanest install and often savings compared to a separate DSP and amp. Do you all have any other suggestions here?

 

[rooty-j]

I posted in CarAudio forum and have receive many response, y'all can disregard this thread. Go search there for "Audio Upgrade for Telluride EX: FR Speakers, Sub, Maybe DSP/Amp combo?" if you're curious. This site won't let me post that line.

 

[TellurideCoug]

Thanks for any comments here. I want my audio to sound better, good enough, but not an overly expensive build. For example, in my last a ride, a Ford Expedition, I used the factory head unit to power a pair of $300 Focal component speakers up front. The Focals were high sensitivity speakers. I also added a LoC/Amp/Sub in the back. All of that was totally good enough. I love quality sound, I just use my 2-channel home setup for reference-grade listening.

For my 2023 EX, here's my rough plan. First, I'll install front speakers, either Infinity Reference REF-6530cx or Focal ISU 165. If they sound good, then I won't need a DSP amp. I'll then add a powered sub using a line output converter, like a LC7i. If those front speakers sound bad without added power, I'll add a 5-channel DSP amp, like a AudioControl D-6.1200 or JL Audio VX700/5i, with a passive sub. Dropping in front speakers is so easy that this is a simple experiment to take in phases.

Has anybody upgraded speakers using their stock head unit (non Harmon), and how do they sound?

It seems that a DSP amp offers the cleanest install and often savings compared to a separate DSP and amp. Do you all have any other suggestions here?

Hi rooty-j:

I am too very disappointed with the so called, "premium audio by Harmon Kardon". It's anything but premium, and I've somewhat lost trust in a car manufacture which clearly deceives the consumer by calling it a "premium system".

It's almost ~ lying to the public.

I'm a 2022 SX Prestige owner, and this is what's going to be swapped out and added:

JL Audio XDM800/8 Channel amp.

Focal ISU 165 component speakers for front doors.

Focal ISU 165 component speakers for rear doors.

Focal P 20 FSE 8” Shallow Sub.

Wavtech Link8 (LOC) Line Output Converter/Processor. Note: Choosing Wavtech Link8 over AudioControl LCi8, (better specs).

Wire Bundle Kit for amp with Fuses

SoundShield Car Sound Deadening Door Kit for Doors ~ 4 Rolls.

Center Speaker size unknown. TBD and replaced/upgraded/or disconnected.


Sounds like you might be budged sensitive? (Best Bang for the Buck): Have you looked at

JBL Club 605CSQ, Club SQ Series 6-1/2" component speakers?

 

[rooty-j]

If the upgraded fronts aren't to my liking, then I'll add this amp/dsp combo. Kicker 47KEY200.4

For sub, Kicker 47KEY500.1 + JL Audio 12W1v3-2. The sub will just live in the cargo area, and I don't want to put any audio gear under the storage tray, as I like that space for junk storage.

I'll likely mount the amps under the front passenger seat to keep the power wire short, and I'll have access to factory speaker wires easily too.

 

[TellurideCoug]

Update to from my previous post:

I am a home audiophile with a dedicated room, and more.

I just finished reading all the posts on this thread. In this past week, I have spent the last 6 days researching and researching and researching everything regarding this issue. Replacing the very bad factory Harmon Kardon system. They are crap.

So...I have shopped it out. Here's what I've found in my journey.

Began with a trip to our local brick and mortar MSRP "Car Toys" in Seattle. Yes, if you want to spend $5,000 or more, than let your local "high overhead retail chain" shop solve the issue with a turn-key solution.

For me, I'm not going to spend $5,000 to $6,000 on a depreciable asset, when I can do the same thing, achieve the same install, the same results, the same components for $3,000.

First, the three essentials:

A required must:

Install an 8 Channel Amplifier.
Install an LOC. Line Output Converter and Processor.
Replace all the factory speakers. Yes. This is a must.

Why the speakers? Because the factory Harmon Kardon paper crap won't be able to handle the new amp. It's true.

I've spoken with about 8 Senior Car Audio enthusiast and installation experts. The information I'm giving you will save you dozens of hours on research. You're welcome.

Again, I repeat...it's essential that you:

Install an 8 Channel Amplifier.
Install an LOC. Line Output Converter.
Replace all the factory speakers.

Second. You need to decide if you want to use an Analog LOC, or a Digital DSP processor. Personally, I'm going with the best Analog LOC on the market which is the Wavtech Link8. (their specs are better than the AudioControl LC8i).

If you want digital AMP and DSP Processor, then the go to is
JL Audio VX800/8i. $1,799.00 MSRP. Abt Electronics would probably be at $1,400.00.

Note: Do not go DSP with entry level Focal speakers. If you go with Focal Flax, then DSP makes sense.
I'm not going with DSP for several reasons. The Wavtech Link8 LOC should be amazing, and it's simple, used only by installation professionals.

If you go with Crutchfield you'll pay MSRP, and get 100% help, 7 days a week. Or for very good discounts, call Sales Associate - Louis Igyarto - [email protected] - at Abt Electronics, 847-544-2652. He discounts everything. Big Time. Louis is very responsive and eager to give big discounts as he has the authority to do so, over the phone. Do not work with a guy who specializes in refrigerators and appliances. Louis is strictly Car Audio and mobile electronics.

Even if you throw it on the Abt Synchrony Card, for 12 months of no interest, the discount is the same. Abt does not penalize you for using interest free financing with their steep discounts, (unheard of). I'm sure you're familiar with Abt, but those who haven't, Abt is out of Chicago, been in business for 86 years.

Use a good independent local shop for labor only. Go out 25 miles from your big city. Find a great local shop via Google reviews. Labor should be under $100 an hour.

With all my research, here's what I'm doing, and no...I'm not putting a sub between my captain chairs. First of all, I'm not 18 and either are you. Do you really want a sub firing directly behind you? Less is more, and to fill that space with a box, is taking away the look and space of the Telluride.

What if want to run to Big Box for a project, go on a trip or run to the airport and you need maximum interior space? Now you've got a clunker anchor coffee table as a pain point, in the way, bolted down. Not going to happen.

If you like the idea, fine. No worries.

They new system will blow you away, without a coffee table in the middle of your Telluride. My sub is replacing the factory sub in the compartment in the back. If it's not acceptable, then I could always go with the custom coffee table box. To me, that's overkill, since the Focal's in the 4 doors will have good bass to begin with.

After hours and hours here's what I'm doing: Note: Prices are discounted by Louis at Abt Electronics and not MSRP.

JL Audio XDM800/8 Channel amp. $800 Abt Electronics. Louis. Everywhere else...$944
Wavtech Link8 (LOC) Line Output Converter/Processor ($200 eBay Seller which has the new version, or pay $260 from a dealer).

Note on Wavtech Link8:
New Version: Power Plug. Look for two jumpers: AUD and DC ON/OFF
Old Version: 200 ISO. Internal voltage will cuts the Output Down.
Do not buy the old version on eBay.
Focal ISU 165 component speakers (pair) for front doors, (woofer and tweeter). $275 from Abt
Focal ISU 165 component speakers (pair) for rear doors, (woofer and tweeter). $275 from Abt
Focal P 20 FSE 8” Shallow Sub. $260 from Abt.
Wire Bundle Kit for amp with Fuses
Crutchfield CKD4, 4-gauge dual amplifier wiring kit — includes power wiring, Crutchfield $99
Wiring Kit for Processors and Low-Current Devices, Package includes 18-gauge power and ground wires (25-foot), fuse holders, and fuses, Crutchfield, $20
SoundShield Car Sound Deadening Door Kit for the Doors ~ 4 Rolls. $70 per roll from Abt.
QTY 2 EA: American International HKSB110 (= 4 total Speaker Adapter Brackets). Amazon, $40. (Note: Crutchfield throws this in for free, but you need to pay $ 640 for the pair of Focal ISU 165's).
QTY 2 EA: Metra 72-7302 Speaker Wiring Harnesses (=4 total Speaker Harnesses). Amazon, $20. (Crutchfield throws this in for free, but you need to pay $ 640 for the pair of Focal ISU 165's).
Center Speaker size unknown. TBD and replaced/upgraded/or disconnected.

Total Hardware and Parts is $2,268
Labor to install. 1.5 days. So...10 hours. I figure $800 labor for my local guy. This is not with DSP. If you go DSP, the labor will be more. DSP can give you headaches, unless you go with the JL Audio for $1,799 MSRP above. It's an AMP and an LOC combined.

Estimated total includes parts and labor: $3,068 plus sales tax.

Most Telluride owners won't do this because it's not a priority to them, or they just don't care.

For those who are budget sensitive, (Best Bang for the Buck or "The Wife Factor"):

JBL Club 605CSQ, Club SQ Series 6-1/2" component speaker system. Much less than Focal's, and the reviews are great. May not give you the same as Focal, but close.

In summary for me: No DSP. No coffee table sub between the captain chairs. My 8" sub replaces factory, (inside the rear left side cargo area. Shop it out, and go to an independent labor only installation guy, who accepts parts.

Hope this helps.

 

[rooty-j]

All good ideas and thanks for sharing all that detail. My system is not Harmon by the way. Also, I'm prioritizing imaging by just upgrading the front speakers and typically have the rears on only when my kids are in the car. My car only has six total speakers, the fronts are factory mid bass and tweeter, so that's four, and the rears are coaxial, one in each door.

I don't know I don't know much about the Wavetech LOC, but from most of what I've understood, a DSP does the best job of flattening the factory signal. I'm I'm pretty impressed with what I've read about the Kicker Key line, which should be perfect for my simplified setup.

I'm doing the install myself. I've done a handful of similar projects over the years. And great advice about Crutchfield, as they have saved my butt more than once with wiring diagrams and troubleshooting.

 

[TellurideCoug]

All good ideas and thanks for sharing all that detail. My system is not Harmon by the way. Also, I'm prioritizing imaging by just upgrading the front speakers and typically have the rears on only when my kids are in the car. My car only has six total speakers, the fronts are factory mid bass and tweeter, so that's four, and the rears are coaxial, one in each door.

I don't know I don't know much about the Wavetech LOC, but from most of what I've understood, a DSP does the best job of flattening the factory signal. I'm I'm pretty impressed with what I've read about the Kicker Key line, which should be perfect for my simplified setup.

I'm doing the install myself. I've done a handful of similar projects over the years. And great advice about Crutchfield, as they have saved my butt more than once with wiring diagrams and troubleshooting.

That's fantastic. Sounds like you're on the right track. I just discovered the CarAudio forum, thanks to you!
I see it's run by Crutchfield...
They do have great people, resources and with their help, pretty impressive, especially since you're a DIY'r.
What's the factory brand for the EX trim?

 

[Jcknsally]

Thanks for any comments here. I want my audio to sound better, good enough, but not an overly expensive build. For example, in my last a ride, a Ford Expedition, I used the factory head unit to power a pair of $300 Focal component speakers up front. The Focals were high sensitivity speakers. I also added a LoC/Amp/Sub in the back. All of that was totally good enough. I love quality sound, I just use my 2-channel home setup for reference-grade listening.

For my 2023 EX, here's my rough plan. First, I'll install front speakers, either Infinity Reference REF-6530cx or Focal ISU 165. If they sound good, then I won't need a DSP amp. I'll then add a powered sub using a line output converter, like a LC7i. If those front speakers sound bad without added power, I'll add a 5-channel DSP amp, like a AudioControl D-6.1200 or JL Audio VX700/5i, with a passive sub. Dropping in front speakers is so easy that this is a simple experiment to take in phases.

Has anybody upgraded speakers using their stock head unit (non Harmon), and how do they sound?

It seems that a DSP amp offers the cleanest install and often savings compared to a separate DSP and amp. Do you all have any other suggestions here?

I have a 2020 S and I have a full system in mine. I had it installed by a friend who owns a car audio shop and let me tell you, he said he would never do another Telluride.

I have a Massive HippoXL 122 sub in ported box, all door speakers were replaced with Timpano tweeters and PRV door speakers. The audio sound is now so much richer. I felt the audio in the car was really flat and I prefer more depth to the music. There was another component installed I don't recall what it is called to allow my factory head unit to be used with an amp. I am unsure of the specifics about my amp, I am sorry but I know it was an American Bass amp. I did have to have a Li battery bank installed under the driver seat. When the car goes into idle/stop/start when your car fires back up it interrupts the amp and cuts out. The extra batteries alleviated this. Now, something that he ran into was wiring coloring for the door speakers. I can't recall exactly what happened but I know that it caused some issues but they figured it out pretty quick.

The sound now is amazing, and I am so glad I had it done.

 

[rooty-j]

I'm planning to drop in my Focal Performance 165AS components into the front doors soon. Like others, I'm torn between mounting the crossovers in the door or fighting to add new speaker wire. If I can fit 1 pair of wires into this opening in the OEM connector, then I could use the factory pair for the new tweeter and my added wiring pair for the midbass. It'd be nice the crossovers in the car. But it may not be worth the hassle too!

 

[TellurideCoug]

I'm planning to drop in my Focal Performance 165AS components into the front doors soon. Like others, I'm torn between mounting the crossovers in the door or fighting to add new speaker wire. If I can fit 1 pair of wires into this opening in the OEM connector, then I could use the factory pair for the new tweeter and my added wiring pair for the midbass. It'd be nice the crossovers in the car. But it may not be worth the hassle too!

Here's my updated list, and I'm also running the 165AS in the doors. Installation is in a few weeks:

Updated Shopped List as of 4-26-23

• JL Audio XDM800/8 Channel amp.
• Wavtech Link8 (LOC) Line Output Converter/Processor.
• Focal 165AS component integrated speakers (pair) for front doors, (woofer and tweeter).
• Focal 165AS component integrated speakers (pair) for rear doors, (woofer and tweeter).
• Focal P 20 FSE 8” Shallow Sub.
• JL Audio HD-RLC, HD Amp Remote Level Control and Cable.
• SoundShield Car Sound Deadening Door Kit Mats - 4 Rolls. This covers all four doors.
• Blackhole High Efficiency Accoustical Absorption Tiles ~ 40 pack of Foam Tiles. This covers all four doors.
• Wire Bundle Kit for amp with Fuses.
• 4-gauge dual amplifier wiring kit — includes power wiring.
• Wiring Kit for Processors and Low-Current Devices, which includes 18-gauge power and ground wires (25-foot), fuse holders, and fuses.
• QTY 2 EA: American International HKSB110 (= 4 total Speaker Adapter Brackets).
• QTY 2 EA: Metra 72-7302 Speaker Wiring Harnesses (=4 total Speaker Harnesses).

 

[TellurideCoug]

Need your help...if you've already finished your speaker upgrade project:

So today I dropped off the car with my Installer, and just now noticed that there are (2), looks like 2.5", or 3", or 4" small tweeters or speakers on both sides in the cargo area wall. For some reason, I overlooked this when I was shopping out all my components.

My guy will know, after he opens up the rear cargo panels, but doesn't anyone know the actually speaker size for these two small speakers in the rear cargo? Also, are they tweeters, or actual speakers?

 

[rooty-j]

My EX has the base sound, so it only has speakers in the front and rear doors. IMO, there's no value to upgrading rear speakers for the driver. They should just be doing some light fill and not distract from the front imaging.

 

[rooty-j]

I installed the Focal Performance 165AS connected straight into my non-Harmon OEM system. They sound very good, but as expected, are very underpowered. I have the volume at 90% or so, and it gets muddy/distorted. I will be adding a Kicker Key 200.4 when they are back in stock.

For the tweeter, I used a dremel to cut down the little flange that held the OEM tweeter centered. With that out of the way, I could center the new tweeter. The crossover mounted easily in the door as you see. I didn't want to fight running new wires, thanks for the advie y'all.

 

[rooty-j]

On the driver's seat, here's an empty tray that might fit the Kicker 200 and 500 amps cleanly.

 

[TellurideCoug]

Follow up and Update:

Didn't know the size of the surrounds until my install last week:

For the SX Prestige owners with an 8 speaker system. The size of the (2) rear surrounds, (located on the side panels of near the 3rd row), are 3.5" Midrange Speakers.

On order: JL Audio Evolution 3.5" Coaxial Speakers (Pair).
I'm also going to add a roll of SoundShield Car Sound Deadening Door Kit Mat to the rear cargo door. That would make it 5 rolls, including the 4 doors.

Besides the installation of the surround midrange speakers, and the SoundShield in the cargo door.....I have one more task to complete:

My installer discovered the factory subwoofer compartment is too thin and not ideal. We're looking for an aftermarket enclosure online, that is thicker and more suitable for the Focal P 20 FSE 8” Shallow Sub.

If any of you guys have some insight....for an aftermarket enclosure for the sub, (located in the Rear Left Side Panel in the Cargo Area)....please let me know.

 

[rooty-j]

A few pics of the install. I took my time, and it took a long time! I used a dual amp kit and will definitely be adding an amplifier for the speakers during my next round. I'm waiting for the Kicker Key 200.4 amp to come back into stock. It will slot right next to the other amp here under the driver seat. The amp location is super convenient as I have access to all the amp gain settings and knobs. I'll need to run another 4-conductor wire to each of the kicker panels but that install 4-should be a piece of cake with the amp wiring already in place.

 

[PellyTelly]

That plaid seat back cover is the star of the show! Where did that come from?

 

[rooty-j]

Indeed. They got the size wrong on the middle cover and sent me a new one. So I used the other for a sub cover.

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