Extra Fog & Headlight Bars - Install/Wiring Plan

[rjonesy]

I drive in the country and need more light "width" than the stock SX foglights can provide. For example: at a T-intersection, the left and right roads aren't sufficiently lit for me. Or on a country road, the shoulder and grass aren't sufficiently lit for me.

While I'm upgrading the light "width" (fog light), I figured I'll add some "length" too (headlight). So I got one diode dynamics 12" fog light bar and one 12" driving light bar. I plan to mount them behind the grille (more on that later) and I understand the laws about running them simultaneously.

Now for the hard part, I want to wire them so that A) they mimic the corresponding built-in stock light i.e. if stock fog lights are on, then extra fog light bar is on, or B) I can force them on or C) I can force them off.

Switch Goal:
Extra Fog Lights: Auto/Off/On
Extra Head Lights: Auto/Off/On

Auto = turn on if applicable stock foglight/headlight is on
Off = nothing
On = turn on no matter what

Parts:
On/Off/On Rocker Switch
Waterproof Relay
16/2 wire

Questions
- I'm new to electrical stuff, but researched a ton, but can yall confirm my wiring diagram?
- do I need a fuse, where?
- wiring the positives for On and Auto directly to battery is fine since LED's draw is super low if they get accidentally left on?
- wiring the negatives all back to negative battery terminal (instead of a ground) is fine?

 

[sprengBoard]

Your diagram will work. Those lights are rated at 4.2A at 14V so I would use a 7.5A or 10A fuse for each light. I'd install the fuses before the rocker switches on the incoming 12V power wires (one fuse per switch/light).

As mentioned above, those lights are rated 4.2A at 14V, which is almost 60W. Most incandescent dome light bulbs are ~10W. I wouldn't leave them on for extended periods without the engine running. Wiring the ground directly to the negative battery terminal is fine.