Yes that is the self-leveling shock/suspension upgrade. It works mechanically in that if the pressure is applied to the shock while driving it will pump up then when parked the fluid moves to a different chamber and the rear of the vehicle drops back down to a sagging position. In the sense that you don't turn anything on or off it is automatic. You did not need the towing package in order to get the tow hitch and wiring. There is a tow option that also provide a tow hitch and wiring that includes standard shocks and stiffer suspension.
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If you purchased the Tow Package please read this . . .
- Thread author 2020Telly
- Start date
Yes that is the self-leveling shock/suspension upgrade. It works mechanically in that if the pressure is applied to the shock while driving it will pump up then when parked the fluid moves to a different chamber and the rear of the vehicle drops back down to a sagging position. In the sense that you don't turn anything on or off it is automatic. You did not need the towing package in order to get the tow hitch and wiring. There is a tow option that also provide a tow hitch and wiring that includes standard shocks and stiffer suspension.
DarkMossJustin
Well-known member
Yes the two rear shocks are Mando shock absorbers which work like Nivomats. There are plenty of pro/con discussions on other threads.
If you selected that option, the tow hitch and wiring and two rear shocks are all installed at the factory before being shipped.
If you plan on towing, make sure you look at all the considerations and safety issues, weight distribution when towing, etc. @2020Telly has a good thread on this:
2020Telly,
Thank you for this thread and towing recommendations. It is very helpful, even three years later. I have a settings questions for OP or anyone else familiar with towing travel trailers.
Some background on my setup. I've had a Cherokee Wolf Pup 16FQ (about 3000# dry), which I used to tow with a 2012 Toyota Highlander. I use a Husky Centerline WD hitch with sway control, which has worked well in the past. I bought a 2023 SX X-Line in January and my dealer recommended a Hitch installer who installed a Curt Hitch, 7-way receptacle, and wired my brake controller.
Shortly after the hitch was installed, I picked up my trailer to make sure wiring worked and see how the WD hitch lined up and if I needed to adjust. I reviewed the post above, but after selecting "tow mode", did not have any braking or warnings go off when backing up the trailer. Just picked it up again for a camping trip next week and had both automatic braking and sensors going off like crazy. I went into vehicle settings and turned off all parking and reverse options, but noticed I needed to disable the rear parking sensor (next to the gear shift) every time I went from Drive to Reverse. Does anybody have any tips when towing a trailer with a Telluride? Not sure if the 2023 has any different settings than previous years.
If you are using tow mode on a 2023 that is not anything I have direct experience with. I would only guess that tow mode would work best when using the 7-pin harness from the Hyundai Palisade that folks purchased from Canada? Maybe the manual gives more insight on what to expect with tow mode for the trims that have it?
I don’t have tow mode but I will say it just made it a habit to disable the rear parking sensor whenever I start and shift out of park with something in tow. That should keep it disabled until you turn off the Telluride and turn it back on or you toggle the button. I assumed tow mode disables it for you along with a few other things. But to do all that it may require the official Hyundai/Kia 7-pin 2023 tow harness.
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I've confirmed that my 2023 rear parking sensor reactivates every time I shift out of reverse. This is only a pain when jockeying into a tight spot, going back and forth. Does anybody know if this is normal or a defect?
G
G-610083
Is it safe to use WDH on a unibody SUV??
Probably not on an early unibody SUV from the 1980s and 1990s that shared a frame design with a car. But that general warning may be outdated. Modern unibody frames are built with stronger steel and aluminum and purpose built for the torque of an SUV over a car design adapted for an SUV of the early days. Car frames aren't designed to haul, they are made to be lighter to save on fuel efficiency. I wouldn't hesitate adding a WDH if the manufacturer doesn't have specific guidance telling you not to. I would not worry about the impact on the frame if I don't exceed the maximum specs, I'd be more worried about the impact on the suspension. Especially if using the self-leveling shocks. They might wear out faster and it would be a little more complicated to set up the WDH when you have the self leveling shocks. Bottomline, if WDH helps you brake safely by helping the front brakes and trailer brakes offload some of the strain on the rear brakes, then why not?
