Hi,
Was loosing serious amounts of oil at 120,000 miles.
RPMs would drop, flutter, during ride and accelerations.
Starting to look into it online.
Saw a lot about oil burning, and started down that path.
Went to dealer and they wanted $850 to flush engine overnight.
$80 for oil change.
$120 for PCV change.
So I decided to just get to work myself and figure this out. Popped the hood, crawled under the car and here's what I found-
Oil pan had wet oil around the gasket. Plastic shield was full of caked up oil. So I tightened the pan screws up and cleaned all the oil up,
That definitely helped. Found on a video about low temps imp[acting oil seals, which we had here in Florida last two months.
Then I put a piece of cardboard under oil filter/pan area and let the vehicle run for a few hours. I found the additional leakage at the oil filter housing.
So I snugged those up, topped the oil off, and no more serious/significant losing of oil since then.
I bought the maintenance manual to get directions on future work and important torque values. I bought Wix filters and a PCV valve.
I bought a couple bottles of Lucas injector cleaner and then put 94 octane in. That took care of the stuttering RPM.
Who said changing the PCV valve was a thirty minute job? What crap. I spent 30 minutes just trying to get that damn intake rubber boot back on the throttle and filter housing!
I spent another 30 minutes trying to get the Korean puzzle connector off the throttle housing and the tubing off the #PCV which was baked on.
I used CRC intake cleaner to clean out the throttle and general area which had carbon film and carbon ring deposits at the butterfly valve. Very clean now.
Existing PCV valve was fouled, working in one way, towards the intake, but not fully sealing backwards from intake to crankcase. Tried cleaning it with CRC but no change.
Replaced it. Taught my kid how to disassemble everything, clean and inspect the components. Then reassemble with proper star or cross patterns for torqueing everything.
Took the Telluride out for a spin and she's feeling good and tight again.
Next up is oil change and replacing the gasket in-between the oil filter housing and engine.
I'm considering adding an oil separator to stop that intake/throttle carbon sludge I cleaned off.
I might run Seafoam or that red Miracle fluid the old timers use in the oil before changing it.
I'll check the forum for advice on this since I'm new here.
I'm definitely going to finally stop that Auto Start Stop crap.
I'm so sick of it.
Also, I hate the recall mod they did which puts the emergency brake on every time the SUV goes into Park.
Cheers.
Was loosing serious amounts of oil at 120,000 miles.
RPMs would drop, flutter, during ride and accelerations.
Starting to look into it online.
Saw a lot about oil burning, and started down that path.
Went to dealer and they wanted $850 to flush engine overnight.
$80 for oil change.
$120 for PCV change.
So I decided to just get to work myself and figure this out. Popped the hood, crawled under the car and here's what I found-
Oil pan had wet oil around the gasket. Plastic shield was full of caked up oil. So I tightened the pan screws up and cleaned all the oil up,
That definitely helped. Found on a video about low temps imp[acting oil seals, which we had here in Florida last two months.
Then I put a piece of cardboard under oil filter/pan area and let the vehicle run for a few hours. I found the additional leakage at the oil filter housing.
So I snugged those up, topped the oil off, and no more serious/significant losing of oil since then.
I bought the maintenance manual to get directions on future work and important torque values. I bought Wix filters and a PCV valve.
I bought a couple bottles of Lucas injector cleaner and then put 94 octane in. That took care of the stuttering RPM.
Who said changing the PCV valve was a thirty minute job? What crap. I spent 30 minutes just trying to get that damn intake rubber boot back on the throttle and filter housing!
I spent another 30 minutes trying to get the Korean puzzle connector off the throttle housing and the tubing off the #PCV which was baked on.
I used CRC intake cleaner to clean out the throttle and general area which had carbon film and carbon ring deposits at the butterfly valve. Very clean now.
Existing PCV valve was fouled, working in one way, towards the intake, but not fully sealing backwards from intake to crankcase. Tried cleaning it with CRC but no change.
Replaced it. Taught my kid how to disassemble everything, clean and inspect the components. Then reassemble with proper star or cross patterns for torqueing everything.
Took the Telluride out for a spin and she's feeling good and tight again.
Next up is oil change and replacing the gasket in-between the oil filter housing and engine.
I'm considering adding an oil separator to stop that intake/throttle carbon sludge I cleaned off.
I might run Seafoam or that red Miracle fluid the old timers use in the oil before changing it.
I'll check the forum for advice on this since I'm new here.
I'm definitely going to finally stop that Auto Start Stop crap.
I'm so sick of it.
Also, I hate the recall mod they did which puts the emergency brake on every time the SUV goes into Park.
Cheers.
