Mamaboze
New member
Can I reset my TPMS myself or do I need to take it in to the Dealer? Thanks

Are you referring to when you get a low tire pressure alert?Can I reset my TPMS myself or do I need to take it in to the Dealer? Thanks
Are you referring to when you get a low tire pressure alert?
If so, just correct the tire pressure to the recommended level (35 psi). Then after driving for a short bit, the alert will dismiss itself.
Are you referring to when you get a low tire pressure alert?
If so, just correct the tire pressure to the recommended level (35 psi). Then after driving for a short bit, the alert will dismiss itself.
over inflate a little when the tires are cold and check again...otherwise you may have a dead battery in the tire sensor...a tire dealer can tell you which one as they have a tool to check themI have the same problem and after inflating to the correct level the warning light is still on--even after several days
Just bought a 24 Telluride and first thing I did was to put 45 lbs of air in all tires, max for tires is 51 lbs. has no harsh ride and I will get 60k miles out of the tires, also rotate every oil change or 8k miles. 99% of all blowouts come from under inflation. Only tires I have ever seen worn from overinflated or 50 series and under 40,30. All heat is produced from the sidewall flex, which causes the blowout's. More air less heat.This is correct: You must take pressure to 35 PSI for it to reset. All mine were at 33 PSI except one, which dipped to 28 in some cold weather. I set that one low tire back to 33 - so now all four tires were 33, and it wouldnt reset....for days...so I brought them all above 35 and the warning light is gone. Now I will have to deflate them when its warmer because 35 PSI at 15° is probably over 40 PSI when above freezing.
Inside the drivers door jam they recommend 35psi. You never go by the the max tire pressure on the tire itselfJust bought a 24 Telluride and first thing I did was to put 45 lbs of air in all tires, max for tires is 51 lbs. has no harsh ride and I will get 60k miles out of the tires, also rotate every oil change or 8k miles. 99% of all blowouts come from under inflation. Only tires I have ever seen worn from overinflated or 50 series and under 40,30. All heat is produced from the sidewall flex, which causes the blowout's. More air less heat.
I been in the tire business for 13 yrs before I retired, I always told my customers if you want excellent tire wear and ride, add 5 lbs to what the manufacturer suggest and or take 5 lbs off the maximum on what’s on the sidewall. Never ever had an issue on what I suggested. Remember a tire will lose 1 to 2 lbs a month just through the rubber. So if you put 35 lbs in the tire you are basically under inflated from the start. Which will produce outside tire wear just from cornering. Years ago I had a car come in saying how rough it rode, checking the tire pressure they had 115 lbs of air in one of the front tires. You never know what you will see in the business.Inside the drivers door jam they recommend 35psi. You never go by the the max tire pressure on the tire itself
Also 35 lbs is only recommended.I been in the tire business for 13 yrs before I retired, I always told my customers if you want excellent tire wear and ride, add 5 lbs to what the manufacturer suggest and or take 5 lbs off the maximum on what’s on the sidewall. Never ever had an issue on what I suggested. Remember a tire will lose 1 to 2 lbs a month just through the rubber. So if you put 35 lbs in the tire you are basically under inflated from the start. Which will produce outside tire wear just from cornering. Years ago I had a car come in saying how rough it rode, checking the tire pressure they had 115 lbs of air in one of the front tires. You never know what you will see in the business.
That why you check your tire pressures and adjust accordingly.I been in the tire business for 13 yrs before I retired, I always told my customers if you want excellent tire wear and ride, add 5 lbs to what the manufacturer suggest and or take 5 lbs off the maximum on what’s on the sidewall. Never ever had an issue on what I suggested. Remember a tire will lose 1 to 2 lbs a month just through the rubber. So if you put 35 lbs in the tire you are basically under inflated from the start. Which will produce outside tire wear just from cornering. Years ago I had a car come in saying how rough it rode, checking the tire pressure they had 115 lbs of air in one of the front tires. You never know what you will see in the business.
IDK about max pressure but different tires require different air. The recommended pressure from the car is just a recommendation assuming you don't know anything about tires, but the tire manufacturer knows their tires.Inside the drivers door jam they recommend 35psi. You never go by the the max tire pressure on the tire itself
Cupping is a natural wear characteristic of radial tires. Air has nothing to do with it. I run 45 lbs in all my tires and never had a cupping problem. The cure to cupping is rotating the tire. I rotate that the front tires get Criss Cross to the rear and the rears go straight to the front.That breaks up the wear pattern that produces cupping. Under inflation hurts tires, over recommended tire pressure helps tires and wear.51 is the max per tire at full load. 35 is recommended. I roll with 38, just above recommended to get the best mpg but not create cupping without approaching the max and risking a blowout as the air heats up. When towing I always check my tire pressure. Cupping can happen with either over inflated or under inflated tires. How many miles you get from your tires is only partially determined by the air pressure. The types of roads you drive on, how much braking is involved in how you drive and the weather you drive in all play into the life of the tread.
I agree about rotating, that helps always. Not sure where you live and what type of weather you have but overinflating will mean you lose traction. The tires are made to run on many different sized vehicles of differing weights. Going by only the max rating of the tire by itself and not accounting for the vehicle weight means you could save on the life of the tire but compromise on traction. Depending on the situation loss of traction could be a catastrophic thing. While your strategy might work for you, the advice could harm someone.Cupping is a natural wear characteristic of radial tires. Air has nothing to do with it. I run 45 lbs in all my tires and never had a cupping problem. The cure to cupping is rotating the tire. I rotate that the front tires get Criss Cross to the rear and the rears go straight to the front.That breaks up the wear pattern that produces cupping. Under inflation hurts tires, over recommended tire pressure helps tires and wear.