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First oil change, conventional oil??

Othee6lool

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Went to kia, they said you can get an appointment for an oil change in 3 weeks. So I went across the street to Toyota instead and they got me right in. But the guy said something weird, he said looks like your car takes conventional oil, not synthetic. That can't be right, right??? I had them go ahead but now I'm nervous about it.
 
As long as oil viscosity and weight (5W30 or 10W30 in the summer) and is ACEA A5/B5 compliant, it should be ok.
 
My dealership put in synthetic oil when they changed oil in mine. I thought I had read in the owners manual to use synthetic, but, maybe not?
 
Reminds me of the Rocket Mortgage commercial..."I'm pretty sure"....lol

Conventional oil in the proper viscosity will be fine for non severe use, however, synthetics are superior oils and if you want to keep your Telluride engine internals tip top they are worth the investment IMO. Kia has an alliance agreement with Total Lubricants which is not easy to find in the US. Top quality synthetics such as Mobil 1/ Pennzoil / Castrol are easily available with free shipping from Walmart or Amazon. Just take them to your dealer and say "use this".
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Sorry, I did a quick online search in the owners manual and did not find anything about synthetic oil use. So, it must have been at the dealership where I was told that. Again sorry for any misinformation I gave.
 
My dealer said they use Total oil and it is a semi-synthetic. In my non-direct injection cars, I used top quality synthetic and changed at 10,000 miles and ran all of them over 200,000 miles. With this being under warranty and direct injection, I am doing the recommended interval and as long as dealers offer specials on oil changes, I will have them do it on schedule. Regardless who does it, keep receipts. I am not giving excuses to void my warranty on this one.
 
My dealer said they use Total oil and it is a semi-synthetic. In my non-direct injection cars, I used top quality synthetic and changed at 10,000 miles and ran all of them over 200,000 miles. With this being under warranty and direct injection, I am doing the recommended interval and as long as dealers offer specials on oil changes, I will have them do it on schedule. Regardless who does it, keep receipts. I am not giving excuses to void my warranty on this one.
Direct injection has nothing to do with what type of motor oil to use. The oil isn't coming into contact with any part of the fuel injection, regardless of whether it's port or direct.

I've heard of Total oil, but never seen their motor oil for sale anywhere. Personally, I'd go with a better known full synthetic.
 
Thanks for the replies, I guess I won't stress about it.
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The PCV system returns vapors from your crankcase to the intake. I plan to keep my oil clean until we know more about how GDI performs for the long haul.
 
The PCV system returns vapors from your crankcase to the intake. I plan to keep my oil clean until we know more about how GDI performs for the long haul.
This--"The PCV system returns vapors from your crankcase to the intake"! Oils formulated for GDI engines and the use of top tier gasolines (Exxon, BP, Amoco, Shell, among others) are the 2 most important measures (since most of us can do these two without much work involved) in minimizing carbon deposit build up in the intake valves. Stop and go driving in short distances is worst on motor oils. Better to use the severe maintenance schedule to keep oil clean and their cleaning and lubrication properties fresh to avoid harmful vapors from used up oils. Thanks.
 
The PCV system returns vapors from your crankcase to the intake. I plan to keep my oil clean until we know more about how GDI performs for the long haul.
That’s is every car with fuel injection not just gdi. Fuel is what causes the carbon deposit.
 
That’s is every car with fuel injection not just gdi. Fuel is what causes the carbon deposit.
Indeed! Detergents in fuel barely touch the intake valve in the GDI engines because fuel are directly injected into the combustion chambers. However, with that said, harmful vapors from the crankcase (dirty oils with used up detergents and lubricants--especially oils not formulated for GDI engines) will also contribute to carbon deposit in the intake valves as they reached their useful life (severe versus normal maintenance plays an important role here). So, the combination of dry intake valves (no fuel wash to clean the valves with fuel detergent--top tier gasolines only minimize carbon deposit build up but will not eliminate it) and dirty oil will only make matter worst! In other words, clean engine (especially GDI engines) helps to minimize carbon buildups (soot, sludge, gunk, etc). Thanks.
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Beato, thank you for the thoughtful, well written comments!

Are you related to Rick Beato on you tube? we does great reviews of music, breaking them down to the individual track (mostly guitars) to highlight what they are doing so well.
 
Beato, thank you for the thoughtful, well written comments!

Are you related to Rick Beato on you tube? we does great reviews of music, breaking them down to the individual track (mostly guitars) to highlight what they are doing so well.
You're welcome! No we're not related, unfortunately. ! But I wished we were! Must be really cool! Thanks!
 




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