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2021 Telluride Detailing Thread

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Suggestion: A good touchless car wash is a decent alternative in the winter.
Don't use the soap. It is very caustic on the finish. The only way to really clean every grimey vehicle is to use a strong solution. Take your own with a handpumper.
 
^ This! I find myself looking for a winter strategy since outdoor washing will not be an option. Never considered this a problem previously, despite having nice vehicles.
I live at the NC beach so not an issue but if I was restricted by weather, I would use ONR instead of traditional wash
 
Don't use the soap. It is very caustic on the finish. The only way to really clean every grimey vehicle is to use a strong solution. Take your own with a handpumper.
Really depends on the place.
 
As an alternative to automated touchless washes, you can go to an enclosed hand wash place. Bring along a 5 gallon bucket filled with warm water and your own pH neutral soap (the buckets come with a lid) and a good quality microfiber mitt. Rinse with the power wash wand. Wash with your bucket. Rinse again with the wand. Use some large microfiber drying towels for the paint and something else for the door jams to prevent freezing. Should only take about 20 minutes or so.

BTDT
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Man after reading this, I need to step up my game wow. I'm that guy that pays monthly subscription at car wash for my cars. Wash my cars twice a week after after getting the Telly, I stopped car wash spot. doing it myself now. your list is pretty neat!! Kudos!!
Think of detailing being different than car washing like the difference between a priest and a polititican
 
I have had several requests for the process I use for my 5.5-hour detailing. I am going to share it with pictures and narrative so this will be a bit long. Here at the beach, we have a crowded season and I am always getting comments on the Telly and the shine.

I had the paint corrected with ceramics and XPEL PPF Bikini installed when it was new. I also got the Wear Point (inside door handles, door threshold, etc) PPF done as well along with tinting of all the rear windows and light tinting on the driver's and passengers' sides. I also got a UV filter tint done for the windshield (can be brutal at the coast).

The first thing I do is get up early in the morning around 6 AM to avoid the hot sun on my black car. I lay all items out and fill the buckets. I get out my pressure washer (electric) and step ladder (for the roof).

The wheel bucket is separate from my body wash and rinse buckets to avoid any abrasive contamination. Remember the body finish spider webbing effect of small scratches is often done to small contaminants, many in the microscopic range. The human eye is only good down to 40 microns (the size of a fleck of ginger) but a lot of spider webbing scatches are caused by 10-20 micron abrasives. So finish preservation starts with minimalizing contamination in the cleaning process. I always start with the wheels--the dirty job first. Years ago I would have done those last but I learned from my son, a professional detailer, to get it done first. I used to follow the standard procedure "Top Down--Left to Right'.

After hoogarage.jpgking up the water to the presDetailing Wall.jpgsure washer, I pull the car out of the garage and spray it generously with ONR (Optimum No Rinse). This loosens up the dirt and starts the Water Beading, also known more scientifically as hydrophobicity, which is simply when water beads up on your car's surface and rolls off. Breaking that surface tension should start early in the process and a good pump spray of ONR helps. I let the ONR sit while I do the wheels. I might reapply ONR if it is starting to dry but otherwise let it do its thing why I do the wheels.

This is the garage and the Detailing Wall where I keep all my detailing materials and equipment. Everything you see on that wall and on the floor is for detailing except the refrigerator which is where I keep the drinks.

Below is the ONR and pump--takes 20-25 good pumps to get a good foam from this pumper.

ONR.webp

I will continue this in another post to keep it from being so large.
 
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I will lay out the pics and then explain each set in the narrative at the end. -

wheels.webpcreeper.webp

Here is the Wheel Clean kit. Notice the Creeper Seat--it works great. I can stay seated and just push from wheel to wheel with little effort. I also keep all my cleaning tools in the holding area under the seat.

I spray the Car Guys Wheel Cleaner on all the wheels and let it set on them for 10 minutes or so. It does a good job breaking up the grime. I have tried multiple chemicals and I really like this one.

I have a grit guard in the bottom of the bucket. I put about an ounce of the Mr Pink (not shown) for the soaping agent into the bucket and fill it with hot water which helps to cut the buildup. I use the green bristle brush on the tires and the bent longer brush with microfiber material for the inside of the wheel spokes. The camel hair brush is for crevices and cracks.

I don't use it until I am completely finished with the car but the Ultimate Tire Shine is administered to the tires and I also use it on the wheels with the blue applicator. I use a polishing designated microfiber cloth (shown later) to polish the wheel spokes. Again, the tire and wheel polish is put on after I have finished the car body.
 
I will lay out the pics and then explain each set in the narrative at the end. -

View attachment 21986View attachment 21987

Here is the Wheel Clean kit. Notice the Creeper Seat--it works great. I can stay seated and just push from wheel to wheel with little effort. I also keep all my cleaning tools in the holding area under the seat.

I spray the Car Guys Wheel Cleaner on all the wheels and let it set on them for 10 minutes or so. It does a good job breaking up the grime. I have tried multiple chemicals and I really like this one.

I have a grit guard in the bottom of the bucket. I put about an ounce of the Mr Pink (not shown) for the soaping agent into the bucket and fill it with hot water which helps to cut the buildup. I use the green bristle brush on the tires and the bent longer brush with microfiber material for the inside of the wheel spokes. The camel hair brush is for crevices and cracks.

I don't use it until I am completely finished with the car but the Ultimate Tire Shine is administered to the tires and I also use it on the wheels with the blue applicator. I use a polishing designated microfiber cloth (shown later) to polish the wheel spokes. Again, the tire and wheel polish is put on after I have finished the car body.
What a cliff hanger! I feel like I just watched the first Lord of the Rings movie and have to wait for a year!
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Now for the body. By the time I have completed the wheels (less polish), it is ready to tackle the body.

I drop the red grit guard in the wash bucket (labeled Wash Bucket) and the blue grit guard into the rinse bucket. I use an ounce and a half of the Reset or the Citrus Wash and Gloss in the wash bucket. I like the CarPro Rest a little better because it has a strong foaming action and great lubricity. Then the buckets are filled with water. I use hot water in both to help with the loosening action. I fill my pumper from the 5-gallon pail of Rest along with the bottle for the pressure washer on the far left. The manual pumper is when I need an extra squirt of foam in grills or on the rooftop etc.

I have both buckets in a bucket dolly to help move the cleaning station around the car. Two of the wheels have brakes that help on my slanted driveway.

By the way, I periodically take the wheel blue brush back over the wheels to keep them from drying out. I also have removed the floor mats and put them on the drive to take the brush to and then rinse off (front and rear).

I use my pressure washer and start with the roof by using a three-step ladder/step stool. The first is a wash-off the remove the ONR with grime. I use a brushing motion on the roof to clean off the loosened dirt and the ONR has done a good job loosening and helping with cutting the surface tension.

The next step after it has been washed off is I start the foamer in the pressure washer. I will also use the manual pumper as well to get that foam in hard-to-reach places. The whole body gets a thorough foam.

I then put my blue sponge in the wash bucket and start laying my scrubbing action on the roof using the ladder. I then move down (Top Down-Left to Right). I constantly rinse the sponge in the rinse water but halfway through. I dump the bucket and rinse the bottom with my pressure washer. I refill with hot water. I find the rinse water gets soapy easily so water is cheap while labor isn't so clean bucket halfway.

I use the crevice brush (camel hair for one and boars hair for other) for the grillwork, door cracks, corners, around window interfaces, etc. It gets rinsed as well.

After the entire car has been completely washed, I then rinse with my pressure washer, including the wheels. I have to be careful with the pressure washer as it is 3800psi and Telluride paint has been known to be on the softer side. I stay a yard away. Here is the pressure washer.


wash.jpg-
 
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Ok--now it is time to move back into the garage to avoid too much sun. The sun is not a friend to the body finish--especially a black (well technically Black Copper) car. But everything has remained wet to this point.

In the garage, I use my blower (McKees Turbo Dryer) to dry the car off starting with the roof. I start from the edge of the windshield and make sweeping passes moving the droplets back toward the rear of the car. I then do the windshield and then the hood. Then onto the grill (a lot of patience there due to the nooks and crannies). I then move down the passenger side moving the droplets backward to the rear of the car. I then do the rear starting to the top near the roof. I then move down the driver's side. I did each wheel when I got near. I then take my microfiber drying towels and mop up any stubborn droplets. It takes 15-20 minutes to blow dry the car completely with a towel mop-up.

If it looked like the car would need to stay in the sun too long or I waited too late to start, I will use Superior Formula 4 as an anti-spotting agent. I mix 5:1 and it does keep the spots off. It is sprayed before the final rinse so it can work in hydro magic. I have used Diablo Spotting to help remove spots but my preference is to keep the spots from forming rather than reacting to them because it is hard to get those splotches off. The Superior Formula 4 is the same rinsing agent used at car washes.

I use multiple microfiber towels--each for different applications like one for trim and grill only. One for wheels only. One for the body only. Etc. The picture below shows the variety.

dry.webpblow.webp


Now for the Toppers. I use two types--one for wet application and the other for dry application. Chemical Guys ASfter Wash is to be sprayed while car is still wet before it is dried and hand buffed. The Turtle Ice Seal and Shine is a dry spray meaning you spray when the body is dry. Both work well but I lean to the dry spray of the Turtle Ice a little more. It goes on nice and leaves a nice gloss. The squeegee is to apply to my roof. I can also wrap a microfiber towel around the end and use it to hand buff.

topper.webp
 
After the car body finish and the wheels are completely polished (it was after the body polish that I did my wheel and tire polish as wheels are first and last), it is time for the trim.

Again, separate applicators and microfiber towels for trim. I like CarPro Perl for exterior trim. IT goes on uniformly without streaking and wipes off with a nice semi-gloss look. After all, you don't want a slick silicone look like Armorall. Chemical Guys VRP is used for grill and front and rear bumpers.

Buff nicely for that neat sheen.

trim.webp
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Now for the windows. I have used many cleaners but avoid ammonia-based ones. I found Invisible Glass works well. I also use my squeegee to wrap a micro towel around the sponge end to get the middle of the windshield. The other device is a life saver. It is able to get into the corners inside and out. The microfiber material has elastic to remove from tool.

window.webp
 
Now for the inside. I take the vacuum cleaner and vac the floors and then the seats and then the console. When the floors are cleaned, I put my mats back in, which have dried by now.

I finish all glass on the inside to include dropping the side windows down an inch to get the edges.

Then it times for cleaning or conditioning. I try to condition every two months or so and just clean in between. The Bickmore Bick 4 Cleaner and Conditioner is good for thorough conditioning but a lot of work. I use the Inner Space for most interior surfaces and the Weiman Leather Wipes for easy wipes and crevices and hard to get to places. The black and green applicator is for conditioning only. The other towels for application and buffing.

Total elapsed time...between 5 and 5.5 hours. I am exhausted but the car looks like a killer and Showroom Display.

I hope this helped those who requested my process. Don't hesitate to message me if you have any questions or want the source for materials or tools. If you are curious--I am not and have never been a detailer but I am a recently retired equipment reliability consultant that specialized in equipment upkeep and maintenance. I have written two books, both with the rights purchased by Chevron. As we use to say in the Army, "If you have time to lean...you have time to clean."

interior.webp
 
Prestoni, thank you very much for that. That was as detailed as you can get in a process. The vehicle certainly shows the care you put into it. If you were to break it up between exterior and interior, how much time is averaged on each one?

I think there is a lot of great information in this thread and it has helped me realize a lot of things i have been doing wrong and knowing some of the tools to help up my game. With many things, the right tool can make a huge difference to not only the outcome but the work necessary to achieve success.

One question i have that i dont know has been covered, is the process to cleaning the cleaning material. Do you just run the towels in the washer/dryer with regular detergent or with a special microfiber soap? What about the maintenance on the brushes?

I want to make sure that my equipment is cleaned and prepped for each wash and curious if there are any do's and dont's for equipment cleanup and maintenance.
 
Has anyone had any experience with XPEL Fusion Plus for ceramic coating?

______________________________
 
Prestoni, thank you very much for that. That was as detailed as you can get in a process. The vehicle certainly shows the care you put into it. If you were to break it up between exterior and interior, how much time is averaged on each one?

I think there is a lot of great information in this thread and it has helped me realize a lot of things i have been doing wrong and knowing some of the tools to help up my game. With many things, the right tool can make a huge difference to not only the outcome but the work necessary to achieve success.

One question i have that i dont know has been covered, is the process to cleaning the cleaning material. Do you just run the towels in the washer/dryer with regular detergent or with a special microfiber soap? What about the maintenance on the brushes?

I want to make sure that my equipment is cleaned and prepped for each wash and curious if there are any do's and dont's for equipment cleanup and maintenance.
Hi Flyer...thanks and glad to share my experience.
As far as proportion of interior versus exterior...80% of 5.5 hours exterior versus interior. The interior is more protected from contaminates than the exterior where you are dealing with body finish and superficial display. Now every three cleanings I spend more time conditioning the leather.

Here is what I use for cleaning rags and sponges. I generally throw the applicator pads away. I use the spray to spot clean sponges and heavily soiled rags. I wash the microfiber towels separate in the liquid cleaner ...no softener and no other detergents.
If I drop a rag while working it immediately goes into the dirty towel ban to avoid picking up dirt.

Hope this helps. Don't hesitate to ask...I was a consultant for 30 years so used to providing advice.

20210824_125609.webp
 
Hi Flyer...thanks and glad to share my experience.
As far as proportion of interior versus exterior...80% of 5.5 hours exterior versus interior. The interior is more protected from contaminates than the exterior where you are dealing with body finish and superficial display. Now every three cleanings I spend more time conditioning the leather.

Here is what I use for cleaning rags and sponges. I generally throw the applicator pads away. I use the spray to spot clean sponges and heavily soiled rags. I wash the microfiber towels separate in the liquid cleaner ...no softener and no other detergents.
If I drop a rag while working it immediately goes into the dirty towel ban to avoid picking up dirt.

Hope this helps. Don't hesitate to ask...I was a consultant for 30 years so used to providing advice.
Prestoni, thanks for responding. I assumed the % would lean more towards exterior but then again some people are pretty meticulous about interior and can spend hours on it. It's up to us to determine to what level we want to apply to the task we approach for the desired outcome.

Thanks for the suggestion on the cloth cleaners. Thats what i was looking for.
 
Prestoni, thanks for responding. I assumed the % would lean more towards exterior but then again some people are pretty meticulous about interior and can spend hours on it. It's up to us to determine to what level we want to apply to the task we approach for the desired outcome.

Thanks for the suggestion on the cloth cleaners. Thats what i was looking for.
Flyer...I spend majority of time on exterior. I don't know what the experts suggest but I feel comfortable with that. What kind of Telly do you have and what part of the country do you live in
 
Flyer...I spend majority of time on exterior. I don't know what the experts suggest but I feel comfortable with that. What kind of Telly do you have and what part of the country do you live in
I don't have mine yet. I just ordered a 22 ES SX-PNT with dune brown interior from i25 so i have about 4-5 mo. to get prepped to make sure i am setup for success when it gets here. I live in the PNW in Vancouver, WA, we get snow maybe once or twice a year but other than that we get all four seasons (wet, spring, summer, fall).

I cant wait for it to come. We went to Weston Kia in Gresham, OR last weekend to test drive their used 2020 S model (for $50k lol). Needed the wife to see how it felt with her driving since this will be the primary transport for our first child due at the end of the year. I had a dodge/jeep dealership lined up to look at their Durango and GC L model as the wife wasn't too excited about waiting 5 mo for the Telluride to come in. After the test drive she said...we can wait, cancel the other dealerships, this is what i want. Didn't have to tell me twice.

I currently drive a 2012 Kia Optima EX and that vehicle is extremely good to me and helped put Kia at the top of the list when looking for a new vehicle. It's been the most luxurious inexpensive car I have owned. I have owned a BMW 7 series and my optima convinced me I don't have to spend that kind of money for a luxury experience. Don't get me wrong the 7 series was more luxurious but not by much and definitely not for the difference in cost.
 




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