• Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my SUV" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your leather interior, please post in the Interior section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.
  • Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop

Self-Leveling Suspension

And you are adding to the confusion. Telluride does not have air suspension. The $795 tow package includes a hitch and Nivromat shocks. They are not air suspension. See first part of this thread.


Only the EX and SX can get the tow package with the Nivromat shocks. The LX and S trims can get the tow hitch only from factory (around $500)
Does the self leveling automatically come with ex?
 
Does the self leveling automatically come with ex?
If the windows sticker for the EX includes the Tow Package then it will have the self-leveling shocks. Otherwise no. But honestly there are better ways to accomplish a level drive height especially when towing.
 
Hey folks. I'm in the market for a new Telluride and am considering adding a 2" lift with this Truxx lift kit. Do any of you know if adding the lift would interfere with the self-leveling?

Edit: I should have done a better search, this thread has an ongoing discussion about my question. Bottom line is that there is an issue and there isn't a clear solution yet. The solutions that people have found are apparently a risk for voiding the warranty.
 
Last edited:
Hey folks. I'm in the market for a new Telluride and am considering adding a 2" lift with this Truxx lift kit. Do any of you know if adding the lift would interfere with the self-leveling?
If you haven’t already, you might want to investigate this thread.
______________________________
 
have had 6 adults onboard with no issues... These are NOT air shocks. they adjust to the weight after about traveling about 100 feet... These are similar to shocks used on some European cars... Volvo comes to mind.

Nivomats are self leveling monotube shock absorbers, which utilize movement of the vehicle between the chassis and the body to create mechanical energy. They are typically mounted in the rear of the vehicle and are self-contained meaning they have no air compressors or air lines.
 
Does anyone have experience with the self-leveling suspension yet? Does it have benefits for those not towing but hauling lots of people? If you don't have it does the rear end sink with a lot of weight (cargo and/or passengers)?
Hi - I have the tow package with self leveling on my 2021 Telly, and it's truly a game charger. I've had about 800 pounds in the back of the car (not trailering, but inside the car) on at least 30 drives. When you first get in, the car is sagging, but after driving about 1/3 of a mile, you can noticeably feel the ride rising and stiffening under you. The cornering is almost as tight as unloaded, and the bumps and crappy roads feel close to unloaded. You need to ABSOLUTELY get it if you plan on loading or trailering. No exception.
 
sorry dbl post cant delete
______________________________
 
If the windows sticker for the EX includes the Tow Package then it will have the self-leveling shocks. Otherwise no. But honestly there are better ways to accomplish a level drive height especially when towing.
After carefully reading through the thread, my question is if the self leveling shocks in the Tow Package lessen the ride quality versus the regular shocks? If I plan to add a WDH when towing anyway, would it be better to skip the tow package and just get the tow hitch?

I'm not sure if I should spend the $795 for the factory installed tow package or $700 (i-25 Kia dealer installed price) for just the hitch and 7 pin.
 
my question is if the self leveling shocks in the Tow Package lessen the ride quality versus the regular shocks?
The ride quality is not encumbered IMHO.

Probably depends greatly on how much you're going to tow and how often.

Keep in mind the self-levelers also work when not towing, for differences in # of passengers and/or load weight carried inside the vehicle.

FWIW
 
After carefully reading through the thread, my question is if the self leveling shocks in the Tow Package lessen the ride quality versus the regular shocks? If I plan to add a WDH when towing anyway, would it be better to skip the tow package and just get the tow hitch?

I'm not sure if I should spend the $795 for the factory installed tow package or $700 (i-25 Kia dealer installed price) for just the hitch and 7 pin.
If I were you I would skip the tow package and just go for the hitch and harness. If you are towing a boat or something that is already level the tow package might do fine and provide a more comfortable ride when not towing. But in general, stability when towing comes with a stiffer suspension so opting to go with the standard and a WDH might be easier to configure to provide better handling.
 
After carefully reading through the thread, my question is if the self leveling shocks in the Tow Package lessen the ride quality versus the regular shocks? If I plan to add a WDH when towing anyway, would it be better to skip the tow package and just get the tow hitch?

I'm not sure if I should spend the $795 for the factory installed tow package or $700 (i-25 Kia dealer installed price) for just the hitch and 7 pin.
The self-leveling shocks will wear out faster and be more expensive to replace. I'm finding that out now. They are not rated for 50k miles - and springs are weaker. Just FYI. I wish I didn't have the self-leveling shocks.
______________________________
 
I've spent hours reading about this subject online trying to come up with a decision so I can put in my order.

It is known that a WDH is not recommended for a unibody frame unless stated in the owners manual, and from what I understand the manual for the Telluride is vague, as stated in another post by 2020Telly in that it mentions sway control but not a WDH specifically.

I have read RV forums with quotes from manufacturers that say tow vehicles with a 500# tongue and 5000# limit do not need a WDH. I have also read that many users with unibody frames use a WDH successfully. I've seen the difference one makes, but the thought of putting unnecessary strain on the vehicles unibody if it's not required leaves me questioning that.

The only conclusion I can come up with, is to stay well under the tow and tongue limits of the vehicle for the safest results. I'm looking at a camper with a dry weight of 3000 and a tongue weight of 300. Taking that into consideration, do I really need a WDH?

If I don't use a WDH, then I assume I need the Tow Package for the "self-leveling" at a minimum, possibly with additional anti-sway upgrades?

But then also reading that the "self leveling" shocks are more expensive and don't have the longevity of the regular ones leaves me even more confused...
 
I've spent hours reading about this subject online trying to come up with a decision so I can put in my order.

It is known that a WDH is not recommended for a unibody frame unless stated in the owners manual, and from what I understand the manual for the Telluride is vague, as stated in another post by 2020Telly in that it mentions sway control but not a WDH specifically.

I have read RV forums with quotes from manufacturers that say tow vehicles with a 500# tongue and 5000# limit do not need a WDH. I have also read that many users with unibody frames use a WDH successfully. I've seen the difference one makes, but the thought of putting unnecessary strain on the vehicles unibody if it's not required leaves me questioning that.

The only conclusion I can come up with, is to stay well under the tow and tongue limits of the vehicle for the safest results. I'm looking at a camper with a dry weight of 3000 and a tongue weight of 300. Taking that into consideration, do I really need a WDH?

If I don't use a WDH, then I assume I need the Tow Package for the "self-leveling" at a minimum, possibly with additional anti-sway upgrades?

But then also reading that the "self leveling" shocks are more expensive and don't have the longevity of the regular ones leaves me even more confused...
That guidance you are reading for no WDH with a unibody is very likely old information meant for smaller SUVs. Unibody frames of today are built stronger than the early days. The unibody frame of the early SUVs was built off of car platforms with lighter steel and rivets to maximize fuel efficiency and comfort over a truck body. Today the unibody frames still aren’t built to haul like a truck to distribute weight but they also aren’t built like they use to be as a frame designed for a car adapted for an SUV. They are now purpose built for an SUV with stronger lighter steel (or aluminum) and better engineering as evidenced by higher towing capacities. Look at modern Land Rovers, Jeep Grand Cherokees, and Pathfinders, they are all SUVs with unibodies with even more towing capacity than the Telluride. The Durango is the only unibody rumored to go back to a body on frame. A good example from Kia is the Sorento. The first generation 2002 Sorento was a compact SUV and a body on frame truck based design. By the third generation Sorento in 2014 moved it to a midsize SUV as Kia changed to a unibody frame shared with the Carnival and claimed it had 14% more rigidity and strength than the previous model. A compact 2002 Sorento has a 2,000 lb towing capacity, while a midsized 2009 Sorento with V6 engine has a 5,000 lb towing capacity, but after going to unibody in 2014 the Sorento dropped to a max of 3,500 lbs yet the the frame of a 2021 Sorento is shared with the Telluride which is rated for 5,000 lbs. By comparison to the Kia Sorento I think the Hyundai Santa Fe was always a unibody. The Santa Fe may have shared the same frame platform as the Sonata sedan just as the early Toyota Highlanders shared with the Camry. From 2001-2011 the Hyundai Santa Fe's towing capacity was capped at 3,500lbs. Then in 2012 Hyundai switched to a stronger unibody and stronger engines to accommodate up to 5,000 lbs of towing.

I think the RV guidance is old because of 2 things, older and smaller travel trailers were heavier and SUVs just weren't up to the task. But as with vehicle advances, the travel trailer manufacturers started building lighter weight and better engineered travel trailer frames and materials so the option to tow with an SUV has become more and more popular as more capable SUVs get on the road.

A unibody is designed to be somewhat flexible by joining multiple frame sections where a truck has a body on frame with solid steel or aluminum rails extending the length of the vehicle to help with heavy cargo and hauling at the expense of comfort and fuel efficiency. Who cares about rear passenger comfort in the bed of a pickup truck? The rails on a truck are what make WDH and leveling easier to configure on a truck. A unibody it’s not as straightforward.

A level load with weight distributed when towing (ideally as close to normal drive height) is going to give you the best and safest ride however you get there. At 300lbs TW and 3,000lbs towing you might be fine, except rarely do people tow with no cargo (passengers and luggage). The proof of a WDH is visible. This thread tells me all I need to know, a single axle pontoon trailer supposedly weighing 4,500 lbs broke a rear axle. The excessive rear sag should have been a sign that it was weight over spec. With a WDH system the sag is minimized and the towing trailer goes back to level and the tongue weight decreased when the trailer load has even more axles and is distributed. A pop up travel trailer or one that is smaller than 20ft often has a higher hitch weight (what sits on the tongue) than a slightly longer travel trailer (20-23ft) with more than one axle. A very heavy and uneven boat likely puts so much down force on the tongue that you are more likely to blow past the capabilities of self-leveling shocks and put too much weigh over that rear axle. To put it another way, the weight distribution of a pontoon boat on a single axle trailer is very different from a normal boat with a skinny bow on a single or double axle trailer. The hitch weight sitting on the tongue is going to be very different. Leveling the load and distributing the weight across the trailer's axles takes the strain off the towing vehicle's rear axle and rear brakes and distributes it back to the trailer axle(s) and brakes and some to the towing vehicle's front axle and brakes. I didn't appreciate this fully until someone on this forum posted specs for a two axle horse trailer and I realized that with a distributed weight, lighter material, two axles and a stable load (horses not moving around too much) you can get up to 5,000lbs with a lower than 500lb tongue weight. Hitting max weight on the rear axle and relying mostly on the tow vehicle rear brakes means you have at least 2 other axles and 4 more tires and wheels with brakes that could help you more if you distributed the load to them.

With all that said it really comes down to how often you plan to tow and what you plan to tow. Just understand that raising the rear with leveling shocks is not the same effect as weight distribution. Simply raising the rear might give the appearance of a leveling but you aren’t taking the weight off the rear axle and distributing it. Sure the tongue might go up and some small amount might go back to the trailer, but that's not the same as torsion bars designed to take some stress off the rear suspension, axle, tires and brakes. I just wish Kia would publish some guidance around all this to ease everyone’s concerns.

There are a number of aftermarket shocks that will hopefully hit the market that may be more affordable than these from the Package. Hopefully the aftermarket options will be designed specifically for the Telluride for towing, comfort, or off-road. They may be height adjustable or can be adjusted for comfort or performance and will also carry a warranty. I stand by my assessment that the Mando self leveling mechanical monotube shocks may be ideal for ride comfort and work great when hauling in a station wagon or minivan. They also work great on motorcycles that have a rigid frame or even work okay on a truck that has weight distributed in the frame and they help with comfort. As a towing benefit I can see some anti sway benefit if they work and you are towing something that is already close to level. The phrase "jack of all trades, master of none" comes to mind. They are not air suspension nor are they equivalent to an electronic auto leveling system. I see these mechanical pumping monotube self leveling shocks as counter intuitive to what you would expect to get out of a more serious towing vehicle. The other challenge is that there isn't really a measuring stick to go by. The Telluride and Palisade appear to be the only FWD based large mid-sized SUVs that implement this type of self-leveling shock. If you look at the Volvo, GM or Saab applications not many of them are FWD or large mid-sized SUVs. The Dodge Durango has Nivomats similar to the Mando but it's a unibody RWD vehicle, the Dodge Caravan is a minivan and the Yukon/Tahoe is a truck based frame on a RWD vehicle. That’s where I think the aftermarket purpose built shocks for the Telluride will overcome. If you are planning to do a lot of heavy towing, perhaps the large mid-sized Telluride is not powerful and strong enough for your needs and you might want to move up to a large SUV or crewcab truck.
 
Last edited:
I have the self leveling shocks and they make a noise. Does anyone know if I can replace them with standard shocks?
 
Not clear what you're driving...

This help?
______________________________
 




Back
Top