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Anything new to stop GDI carbon buildup in the Telluride?

On GDI engines get a nice catch can, install it and remove the collected stuff at every oil change. That is it, simple and done. It will double the engine life. $150.00 for a catch can and maintain it is cheaaaaaaap for your engine.

If you take care of her, she will always bring you home.

So have you done this on the Telluride? If so, which one did you buy and where did you mount it?
 
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I've been doing some research on this topic, and I think I'm getting a lot more comfortable regarding the carbon/DI engine question. I'm not an automotive engine designer/engineer and if there is one on this forum please chime in.

The oil is extremely critical, newer formulation's are much less likely to oxidize, have low volatility, and are 20% detergent additives. They are formulated specifically to avoid forming carbon deposits in GDI/Turbo engines. Follow Kia's oil recommendations including change intervals.

The Telluride Atkinson cycle engine DOES allow for some un burned fuel to get back into the intake and over the back of the valve providing for additional cleaning.

There is probably no harm in adding a catch can, but is it needed? Doubtful, and yes a lot of earlier GDI engines had issues that were mitigated by catch can's. Until someone pulls one of these engines apart, or scopes the top of the intake valves and shows carbon build up is in fact an issue I don't see the need to mess with the PCV system by adding anything that would allow the factory to void a warranty claim.
 
20200409_153745.webp

Any smart person out there able to tell me which is the proper hose to disconnect and route through the Oil Catch Can on this Telluride? Lots of tubes and hoses on this thing.
 
View attachment 7081

Any smart person out there able to tell me which is the proper hose to disconnect and route through the Oil Catch Can on this Telluride? Lots of tubes and hoses on this thing.
It’s the black hose on the right.😂
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It’s the black hose on the right.😂

While any response is appreciated (even humorous ones during these times!), I'm not sure if you mean:

1) the black hose on the right labeled "Or This?"

or

2) The black hose on the right (JK) as a joke because all the hoses are black!


I actually think it may be the one labeled "Or This?" after doing more research, but would appreciate any input
 
While any response is appreciated (even humorous ones during these times!), I'm not sure if you mean:

1) the black hose on the right labeled "Or This?"

or

2) The black hose on the right (JK) as a joke because all the hoses are black!


I actually think it may be the one labeled "Or This?" after doing more research, but would appreciate any input
Definitely option 2. Haven’t seen anyone install one yet, at least not online anyway.
 
Ok, yes, I have too much time on my hands (forced PTO), but it doesn't look like an Oil Catch Can is going to be an easy install on this Telluride.

I removed the Air Intake Hose looking for the PCV Hose (I loosened it before I started recording). It looks like the Air Intake Hose may already have some type of oil catch reservoir??


And what are these exposed nipples??

IMG_1144.webp
 
x
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I have to admit, I am impressed. You are bored, so you will obsessive about a non issue to the point where you will rip into a brand new car willy nilly and then ask questions about your path of destruction on the internet? And I thought I was the only person that would be dumb enough to do something like that. I rip apart everything.

Most people will stop and say, I don't know, but nope, you are full bore in. I am honestly impressed.

And people dare say that idle hands are not the devils playground. What in the world do they know?

Joking aside. If you don't know what you are doing, you should probably not do it to a new car. Modern direct inject engines don't need a catch can unless you are doing something like racing or tuning the engine. Read and follow the manual. If you don't understand what you need to do, ask the dealer or us. Heck, a freebee. Do your oil changes and use top tier gas. If you are only driving short distances, do a 20 mile lap at highway speeds once a month.

If you think you need a catch can, have a professional do it, with a warranty. The vacuum systems on these cars are delicate, if you don't get them just right, you will destroy the engine. You will need the warranty because the car manufacture will look at the catch can and not cover the vehicle. If you are decide you will remove the catch can, why would you, you thought it would help not hurt, then they will look at the computer and start asking you why the values don't add up.

For the life of me I can not figure out the logic of this.

Even if you wanted to argue, well they will just charge you for the de-carbonizing of the engine, it is how they stick you. Even if that is true, there would be a massive lawsuit over it.

We will create this issue that will destroy the engine with in our warranty. We will know that it will happen and we will allow it knowing that any court in the country will come down on us like a stranded island survivor on a 10 lb steak.

If this was an issue where are the lawsuits. We have lawsuits because glass breaks. We have lawsuits because knobs fall off. We have lawsuits because the color of cars change over time. All of those lawsuits will happen, but no one will dare sue over an engine committing hari kari every 30,000 miles.

Heck I beat there are people on this forum that have 60,000 miles and going strong.

Warning strong language.

 
I have to admit, I am impressed. You are bored, so you will obsessive about a non issue to the point where you will rip into a brand new car willy nilly and then ask questions about your path of destruction on the internet? And I thought I was the only person that would be dumb enough to do something like that. I rip apart everything.

Most people will stop and say, I don't know, but nope, you are full bore in. I am honestly impressed.

And people dare say that idle hands are not the devils playground. What in the world do they know?

Joking aside. If you don't know what you are doing, you should probably not do it to a new car. Modern direct inject engines don't need a catch can unless you are doing something like racing or tuning the engine. Read and follow the manual. If you don't understand what you need to do, ask the dealer or us. Heck, a freebee. Do your oil changes and use top tier gas. If you are only driving short distances, do a 20 mile lap at highway speeds once a month.

If you think you need a catch can, have a professional do it, with a warranty. The vacuum systems on these cars are delicate, if you don't get them just right, you will destroy the engine. You will need the warranty because the car manufacture will look at the catch can and not cover the vehicle. If you are decide you will remove the catch can, why would you, you thought it would help not hurt, then they will look at the computer and start asking you why the values don't add up.

For the life of me I can not figure out the logic of this.

Even if you wanted to argue, well they will just charge you for the de-carbonizing of the engine, it is how they stick you. Even if that is true, there would be a massive lawsuit over it.

We will create this issue that will destroy the engine with in our warranty. We will know that it will happen and we will allow it knowing that any court in the country will come down on us like a stranded island survivor on a 10 lb steak.

If this was an issue where are the lawsuits. We have lawsuits because glass breaks. We have lawsuits because knobs fall off. We have lawsuits because the color of cars change over time. All of those lawsuits will happen, but no one will dare sue over an engine committing hari kari every 30,000 miles.

Heck I beat there are people on this forum that have 60,000 miles and going strong.

Warning strong language.

Ok, I appreciate your comments in jest. I may be obsessive, but I am not an idiot. I have done plenty of work on all my own cars, put lifts on my Jeep myself, etc.. I put it all back together, my Telluride works fine, you can sleep peacefully knowing that no Tellurides were harmed in this video...

But, I thought this forum was for Telluride enthusiasts, and to share helpful information and tips?

The video you posted was already posted in this thread. I've already watched it. I'm not sure I'd take advice from a guy that likes to talk more about jerking off than cars. I've watched maybe 50 other videos that say the exact opposite of that guy.

This guy below took a brand new 2019 Volkswagen Golf and looked at how much buildup there was at just 10,000 miles.


Does this not worry you? I am not going to void my warranty by adding a catch can.
 
Thank you for having a sense of humor. If I owned a Volkswagen, I would take a better look at it. Volkswagen has a design problem. They don't offer a oil removal system at the oil pan, which kia's do and they don't have blow back of unburnt fuel like kia's do. This is because volkswagen does not care about the engine after their warranty passes.

Now if 5 years down the road this becomes a problem, then kia will have to fix it, I put less then 10,000 miles on a car a year. And I would honestly think that if this was going to be a big problem with the telluride or kia in general we would have seen it already in the last 4 years.

But lets say that it does happen. What would kia do? Ignore it for years until the case action lawsuit? Or pull a lexus? Lexus IS250 GS300 carbon build-up - What you need to know | Torque News

The repair of a design issue will be cheaper then a full recall and lawsuit.
 
Ok, yes, I have too much time on my hands (forced PTO), but it doesn't look like an Oil Catch Can is going to be an easy install on this Telluride.

I removed the Air Intake Hose looking for the PCV Hose (I loosened it before I started recording). It looks like the Air Intake Hose may already have some type of oil catch reservoir??


And what are these exposed nipples??

View attachment 7155

The one part off the air intake ducting is a resonator.

The part number is 28192R. No idea the purpose function of this resonator - not familiar with a resonator being on my previous air intake ducting.
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The one part off the air intake ducting is a resonator.

The part number is 28192R. No idea the purpose function of this resonator - not familiar with a resonator being on my previous air intake ducting.

A bit of a technical read, but I’m assuming most cars have these - maybe just not as noticeable as on the Telluride (built into other components rather than stand-alone). The purpose is to “even out the airflow into the system by helping to level out variances in intake level/pressure.

 
BG 44k and BG MOA with each oil change will do wonders for the carbon build up issue.
 
Ford went to port & direct injection because if you sprayed anything into the throttle body to try to eliminate the carbon it would ruin the turbos.
 
There is a new oil in the works to help address this.

The short version is when you can get oil with the new GF-6 rating, that is what you want. In the interim, get oil with the SN Plus designation.

If you want to learn about it ..... Out with the Old: New Oil for New Engines | MOTOR

and NEW API SN PLUS SPECIFICATIONS | MOTOR OIL & FLUIDS | Home

Fascinating read, Thanks for sharing that link and information
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My thoughts are this. Kia provides us a 100,000 mile warranty on the powertrain. If they had any doubt about it’s long-term reliability, their warranty would be as short as Toyota....
I think the power train warranty covers parts that touch oil not the fuel injection parts or the valves.
 
This is why Electric car revolution needs to happen :cool:
Electric cars are a hoax as far as emissions are concerned which is why I call them EXTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINES. Where do people think the electricity for comes from? In the US 40% comes from coal/oil/ natural gas plants and 25% from nuclear. When we reach 100% nuclear and there are as many charging stations as gas stations I'll go for an electric car..if I'm still alive by then.
 




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