DIY Transmission Fluid - Drain and Fill

[Jc16sanchez]

Looks like you did a great job with the fluid change! One thing I found helpful is to check the fluid level when the transmission’s at operating temp and the car’s level. I made that mistake once and had to top it off again. Also, I like to check under the car for leaks the next day just to be safe.

 

[RockOut]

Another thing I did was after draining until empty and measuring how much had drained, I emptied the container and put it back underneath the drain. Then when I was filling it, I put a paper towel on the top of the container so I would more easily see when it started overflowing from the side hole. I still didn't see it right away, but when I did, I capped the hole and measured how much had spilled out, which told me how much I needed to add back in.

It sounds like it's about 1/4 of a quart past the side drain hole, from what at least one other said here.

 

[Marcuschauvin]

I did my trans drain/fill tonight. I drained out 4.5 qts. Only had a gal to replace since 3.5 was what everyone else was using. I did notice a lot came out when I first opened the side plug. I’m wondering if mine was overfilled from factory. I replaced with the full gallon and ran through the gears and has maybe a couple drops come out the side plug. I may grab a qt tomorrow and put another half in just to be safe.

 

[Diep]

Dumb question here, but if you have AWD is there a front differential too?

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[drizzt]

Dumb question here, but if you have AWD is there a front differential too?

@Diep OP did write up for both rear differential and trasnfer case fluid drain and fill:

DIY Transfer case and Differential fluid service

I figured I'd replace my Transfer case and differential fluid earlier than the recommended schedule. I have about 40K miles on my KT. Kia recommends replacing these fluids every 75K if driving under severe conditions. This is a pretty straight forward service for all you DIY'ers. Note that I...

tellurideforum.org

 

[Diep]

So the transfer case is the front differential?

 

[drizzt]

So the transfer case is the front differential?

Yes, if I remember correctly, transfer case (front diff) was right adjacent to transmission drain plug area towards driver side. Had to remove the entire bottom cover to get to it. It makes sense to do transmission fluid at the same time since both work needs bottom cover removal. Wish I had also done coolant also at this time (also requires bottom cover removal) but I push that out to another day.

As for the rear diff, fill plug removal was not easy for me. Either I didn't have the right tool, or my KT has slight alignment issue between the plug and the hole (see pic 4&5), had to resort to spanner wrench instead. Hope I applied proper torque when I was done.

 

[Diep]

Since you’re only doing a drain and fill, is there any concern with mixing a different fluid with the Kia fluid?

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[drizzt]

You can buy OEM transmission and gear oil to ease your mind but as long as you go with reputable brand similar weight synthetic oil, I think you’ll be just fine. Just keep all the receipts and service records.

 

[ganseg]

I just did mine at 60k, thanks for this right up! On some previous cars, they specified it should be running when checking the level. That MAY account for putting in 3qt and then going back to add 1/2qt. I don't have a shop manual to check. I just did the 3.5 since noone has said they had issues.

I filled from the top pouring very slowly, but it dawned on me later that I could have the level checking hole open for the first 3qt so the air has a different way out. Then I would close the level checking hole to slowly add the last bit.

 

[MrMCar]

HS;
Thanks for posting the writeup. As I've mentioned before, I owned a Bosch BSC and independent BMW specialist shop for 37 years. IIRC is was BMW that first started the ability to print money (specialized fluids, only available at the dealer; $$$) and decree "Lifetime Fill" on things like transmissions, transfer cases and differentials. Be it one or two, as the case may apply. What is lifetime? My answer; When is dies...

I also was working at the dealers when the dreaded ZF 4HP transmission was popular. That is the one transmission that started the whole conversation about NEVER changing transmission fluid. Because it was true. Servicing a 4HP (fluid/filter) had a 50% chance of dying within a couple of hundred miles, if not sooner.
The issue was mostly with very poor design, bad metallurgy and high friction (when not needed) with the "A" clutch pack.

Given that ATF has extremely high detergent additive package (that's where the old sage advice of adding a qt. of ATF to the engine oil-just before a change-came about) would do it's job and remove the various bits of hole clogging sludge and stripping away what was left of the overheated friction surfaces of A & E clutches. Tranny No Bueno at this point. This pseudo truth/wives tale of never change the transmission fluid, perpetuates to this day.

ZF finally went around their partnership/agreement and individually issued a 100,000Km (that's the magic 60K imperial number folks) service recommendation that most have if, you look at the severe service schedules.

In all of my years other than the aforementioned ZF 4HP-22; automatic transmissions always benefited from transmission servicing. Many decades of my customers will attest to such also, even if some of the BMW fluids were very expensive. Owing to the way the fluid works in aiding clutches work, lubricating & cooling as well as keeping everything clean. In case you weren't aware; The single HARDEST working fluid in any normal car? The automatic transmission fluid. By a wide margin, owing to the heat and constant friction it must endure.

I plan on a drop/fill the fluid somewhere in the 30K miles range and a complete service (fluid/filter) at about 60K miles on my Telly. I still and never liked "mechanical flushing" machines. Messy, and chance of improper fluid contamination (they don't clean the machine after every use) is possible.

Look for factory "Approved" oils for each and every component or better. Do not be misled by the "recommended for" label. The later being created by the folks at the marketing departments. Oils/approvals/recommendations are VERY confusing and always have been.
It's the way the oil companies like it and have always operated. A practice I have always loathed.

P.S. This is not a "my oil is better than yours" discussion. It's a "factory approved" or not.
If/when the time comes to fight for your warranty rights should something go wrong... Approved fluids (no matter which) win the day.
HTH?

 

[ganseg]

I looked at all data to see if there is more info on the process we are doing. It says the transmission temp should be between 122 and 140F. It does not specify engine running or not, but it doesn't say to turn it off after alternating between Park and Drive twice, pausing in each for 2 seconds. If anyone else has access to a more specific reference, that would be great.

It did say something interesting that you will have to interpret for yourself. It said that if more than .9L of fluid comes out of the level check hole, that is abnormal.

I had .3 come out, so ignoring the engine on/off question, it would have been fine if I had not let that out.

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[KMiles]

I looked at all data to see if there is more info on the process we are doing. It says the transmission temp should be between 122 and 140F. It does not specify engine running or not, but it doesn't say to turn it off after alternating between Park and Drive twice, pausing in each for 2 seconds. If anyone else has access to a more specific reference, that would be great.

It did say something interesting that you will have to interpret for yourself. It said that if more than .9L of fluid comes out of the level check hole, that is abnormal.

I had .3 come out, so ignoring the engine on/off question, it would have been fine if I had not let that out.

Attached are two PDF files from my DIY subscription on changing the fluid and checking the level. Note that these are for a 2023 Telluride, but I think they apply to all years since it is the same engine and transmission. I hope it helps.

 

[ganseg]

Attached are two PDF files from my DIY subscription on changing the fluid and checking the level. Note that these are for a 2023 Telluride, but I think they apply to all years since it is the same engine and transmission. I hope it helps.

Interesting that the second on says to add .7L before checking!

 

[ganseg]

Unless I learn specifically that the engine should be running when checking the level, I think I will check it running and then add some extra, like 1/3 to 1/2 qt, given the direction that up to .7L extra is not abnormal. I just do not want to be low, especially with temps going down in winter.

 

[ganseg]

Thank you to all who contributed to this thread. I have now done two drain and fills and will prob do one every 30k from now on. I have 6000 miles on my first one and now at 60k I did my second and remembered to wipe off the magnet.

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[tom141]

I was about to do the drain and fill like most people here do. I loosen the drain bolt just a little bit then I realized I didn’t have the the crush washer so I tightened it back up. Could I buy crush washer on Amazon for the Amazon-24mm bolt like this one M24x29x2.0mm Automotive Drain Plug Gasket ? Did anyone buy something like this to use instead of making a trip to a dealer? Or if you have the OEM part #, could you please share? Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[Diep]

I just used an aluminum crush washer from an assorted kit bought from Amazon. Nothing special about the washers on these.

 

[tom141]

I just used an aluminum crush washer from an assorted kit bought from Amazon. Nothing special about the washers on these.

Thank you Diep for your input.

 

[tom141]

I did the drain and fill this evening. I bought a crush washer from Kia dealer part #(K 45323 39000) for less than $1.5. I also used Kia OEM trans fluid as I am already saving the $ by DIY. As most people indicated here, I just drained the fluid, measured the amount coming out, filled in with the same amount from the top plastic bolt but I did it very slowly. It is quite simple to do actually. Easier than an oil change. At 50k miles, the fluid looked dirty and I magnetic bolt showed that too. Now I know how easy it is, I will do it every 30k miles then for sure. I believe anyone who changes their own oil should be able to do easily. Highly recommended. Cheers.