DIY Transmission Fluid - Drain and Fill

[Amati5]

Attached are two PDF files from my DIY subscription on changing the fluid and checking the level. Note that these are for a 2023 Telluride, but I think they apply to all years since it is the same engine and transmission. I hope it helps.

This is the way I did my other car too. With the engine running, shifting through the gears and wait until certain temp, letting the torque converter to pick up some oil. Then you’ll have more room to add more oil to the fill hole. This way you’ll able to add as much as you fill. But I guess since this car also has the top fill hole and as long as you put the same amount back it’s ok too.

 

[23kiatelly]

What about flushing??
And do we need to add .7 before checking?

 

[ganseg]

I saw that in the AllData instructions for checking the level too. I think they are saying that because it is possible for the transmission to have been sufficiently full and not drip from the level check hole, but the only way to know it wasn't low at that point is by adding some.

Rather than pour some in preemptively, I would only pour some in if it is not dripping from the level check hole. (Why pour in .7 qts if it is full enough already?)

Checking the level requires three things. 1. The car is level. 2. Your transmission is in the proper temperature range. 3. Should the engine be running or not? I have not seen the answer to #3 and it makes a significant difference. AllData is not clear on this.

I did change my fluid Without knowing the answer to #3 and I am going on two ASSUMPTIONS. 1. That the transmission was sufficiently full from the factory. 2. My educated guess that you check the level while running.

Until someone gets access to the Kia shop manual, we are on our individual responsibility, but I think it is worth doing

 

[Amati5]

What about flushing??
And do we need to add .7 before checking?

Now that i’ve seen the attachment I have the same question if flushing is required?

Usually flushing is not recommended for any transmission but wonder why it’s required for the Telluride

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[RonDel]

Now that i’ve seen the attachment I have the same question if flushing is required?

Usually flushing is not recommended for any transmission but wonder why it’s required for the Telluride

That attachment shows the bottom pages of Kia Technical Service Bulletin TRA 046 (Rev 3, 11/18/2022).

This is from the very top of that service bulletin:

 

[ganseg]

I recommend regular drain and fill (not a flush with a machine)

 

[KMiles]

I saw that in the AllData instructions for checking the level too. I think they are saying that because it is possible for the transmission to have been sufficiently full and not drip from the level check hole, but the only way to know it wasn't low at that point is by adding some.

Rather than pour some in preemptively, I would only pour some in if it is not dripping from the level check hole. (Why pour in .7 qts if it is full enough already?)

Checking the level requires three things. 1. The car is level. 2. Your transmission is in the proper temperature range. 3. Should the engine be running or not? I have not seen the answer to #3 and it makes a significant difference. AllData is not clear on this.

I did change my fluid Without knowing the answer to #3 and I am going on two ASSUMPTIONS. 1. That the transmission was sufficiently full from the factory. 2. My educated guess that you check the level while running.

Until someone gets access to the Kia shop manual, we are on our individual responsibility, but I think it is worth doing

Looking at the AllData instructions, I think that when you remove the engine under cover and lift the vehicle, the engine should be off, but it doesn't specifically say it.

• Add 0.7 ℓ of ATF SP4M-1 through the ATF filler hole after removing the eyebolt.
• Start the engine to warm up the ATF.
• Do not step on the brake and accelerator simultaneously to warm up the ATF.
• Check by using KDS that the temperature of the ATF is between 50°C and 60°C (122-140°F).
• Move the shift lever slowly from "P" to "D", then back to "P". Repeat this sequence two times and then move the shift lever to "P" range.
• Pause in each range for more than 2 seconds.
• Remove the engine room under cover.
• Lift the vehicle and remove the ATF level plug from the valve body cover.
• Check the ATF level.
• Nomal : ATF flows out in a thin oil stream.
• Excessive : (abnormal): Over 0.9 liters of ATF flows out for 2 minutes.
• Insufficient : (abnormal): There is no fluid flow.
• If the ATF level is too high or low, follow the instructions below.
• Excessive: Drain until the ATF flows out in a thin oil stream.
• Insufficient: Add until the ATF flows out in a thin oil stream.
• Install the ATF level plug (A).

 

[MrMCar]

What about flushing??
And do we need to add .7 before checking?

Good point and very observant!

The can is to (I'm bereft of the exact factory instructions) clean out the "nooks and crannies" of the transmission oil cooler. Presumably by disconnecting the lines and running the solution through. A good idea and NOT to be confused with the ubiquitous "Flushing Machines" (really something coined by the marketing departments of the folks that make/sell these expensive machines. (Side note: BMW's have a bad reputation of having bad transmissions. We serviced/fixed these all day/week/yearlong, without any "flushing machine")
We always removed any cooler, be it engine, transmission or power steering when doing any major work and cleaned the insides by forward and backwards flushing with the parts cleaning solution, and then hot water.

I'm reading between the lines and think there might be a cleanliness and/or temperature issue. Hence the ask for the flush can.

Add an extra .7?? Well you're checking the fluid, do the lines and cooler were filled prior. It'll be messy but perhaps one should, to more easily get to the correct fill level sooner. Make sure the cleaner is completely removed.

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[Vincenzo]

Good point and very observant!

The can is to (I'm bereft of the exact factory instructions) clean out the "nooks and crannies" of the transmission oil cooler. Presumably by disconnecting the lines and running the solution through. A good idea and NOT to be confused with the ubiquitous "Flushing Machines" (really something coined by the marketing departments of the folks that make/sell these expensive machines. (Side note: BMW's have a bad reputation of having bad transmissions. We serviced/fixed these all day/week/yearlong, without any "flushing machine")
We always removed any cooler, be it engine, transmission or power steering when doing any major work and cleaned the insides by forward and backwards flushing with the parts cleaning solution, and then hot water.

I'm reading between the lines and think there might be a cleanliness and/or temperature issue. Hence the ask for the flush can.

Add an extra .7?? Well you're checking the fluid, do the lines and cooler were filled prior. It'll be messy but perhaps one should, to more easily get to the correct fill level sooner. Make sure the cleaner is completely removed.

Why would there be a need to flush the tranny cooler? Isn’t it just a coiled tube in the radiator tank?

 

[MrMCar]

Why would there be a need to flush the tranny cooler? Isn’t it just a coiled tube in the radiator tank?

Yet another good question.

The days of my father's cars, whereas the transmission oil cooler was just a simple cooling pipe embedded into the left or right side tank of the radiator are LONG gone. Over 30 years ago, the powertrain engineers sought out better, lighter, more efficient cooling AND heating of the transmission fluid.

To that end we now have coolers which are technically "inter-coolers", by use of passing two liquids across each other in separate pipes.
The cooler is mounted on the side (unsure if on the engine or trans but it doesn't matter) of the trans. Coolant is passed through one set of pipes and the ATF is passed through the other. Think of a common radiator albeit, instead of air and coolant, the media is two different liquids. About three times more effective for it's given size.



Now we take the coolant, which warms up about three to four times faster than the heavier and more viscous oil. We now heat up the ATF, when it's cold so that it works better, and provides more efficient operation sooner. Then after crossing that delta, we use the coolant to control the ATF and keep it somewhere near the 100°C delta.

If you were to cut one of the coolers in half with a bandsaw, you would see some very tight and multiple turn pipe arrangement. The returns (180° turns at the ends) slow down the ATF. That's where any dirt/debris get trapped.
Hence the need for flushing. I'm confident that the service staff at Hyundai/Kia have borne this out hence the "recommend" on the servicing chart.

Me, I change the fluid and filter sooner (remember that almost all ATF is VERY high detergent) so that we can negate some of the dirt/debris in the cooler passages.

HTH?

 

[davebarb0518]

I decided to replace my transmission fluid at 30K miles using the drain and fill method.

Here's a quick summary:

- Remove the plastic under panel (to include the small panel you remove during oil filter change)
- Drain bolt for the transmission is a 24mm (you can use a 15/16 if you don't have a 24mm)
- I drained approximately 3.5 qts
- Used Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic
- I don't have service manual, so I tightened the drain bolt to 35 ft/lbs (based on some YT videos on the Palisade and Sorento)
- I also removed the front fill plug just to make sure I can see the new fluid overflowing out during the fill
- I used a long funnel and filled from the top fill hole
- I've put approximately 3 1/4 qts when it started overflowing from the front fill hole
- I secured the front fill plug and added another 1/4 qt of fluid (8 oz) on the top fill bolt / plug

NOTE:
- I basically replaced the same amount that I drained (3.5 qts)
- Be sure to fill SLOWLY when filling from the top fill hole--it will overflow if you just pour the transmission fluid
- Go through all the gears and take it for a test drive
- Check for leaks

Thank you for such a detailed post.

 

[Obryan285]

I didn't attempt to loosen the fill bolts, I just looked to see what I need to prep for.

I'll post some pix once I complete mine. Although it looks like that removing the spare tire would give you more room to maneuver with the rear differential.

It’s working out pretty good. No issues so far.
I don’t really know if it’s better than OEM, but I’ll continue to use it. And probably use the same brand for the diff and transfer case.

Just curious did you have the transmissions hot or up to operating temperature when you did this just asking I've heard and read that it the transmission has to be hot in order to do this

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[Husker Soze]

Just curious did you have the transmissions hot or up to operating temperature when you did this just asking I've heard and read that it the transmission has to be hot in order to do this

Not sure I fully understand your question. Are you asking if the transmission was hot when I drained the fluids? Not really.

 

[MrMCar]

Just curious did you have the transmissions hot or up to operating temperature when you did this just asking I've heard and read that it the transmission has to be hot in order to do this

I'm a retired ASE and BMW trained tech/shop owner.
I have never read anything professionally that asks for the transmission fluid to be drained at operating temperature.
There's a lot more ATF than engine oil. It's also in an odd spot usually and hard to drain neatly. Therefore it's not engineered to service/drain/fill easily owing to only needing service a couple of times over the lifespan of the vehicle...

Curious; Where did you read this?

 

[RockOut]

I know some have used Maxlife fluid with no issues. I'm looking at other alternatives to Kia brand for already out-of-warranty transmission due to cost and location. Spec is SP4M which I'm only finding a few that say they meet this: Mannol ATF SP‑IV 8219 (SP4M stated), Ravenol ATF SP‑IV / SP‑IV RR (designed explicitly for Hyundai/Kia 6 and 8 speeds), Aisin ATF SP4 (SP‑IV equivalent, OEM quality). Has anyone used any of these?

 

[RockOut]

Nevermind, looks like Amsoil has SP4M rated fluid

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[MrMCar]

You'll very likely be fine with the AMSOIL product. I used it for a very long time at my shop. Great oil, hate the pyramid scheme sales network.

Just for future readers:

There is a VAST difference between "Meets" or "Recommended" (OEM quality, rated, designed for) and the "Approved For" labels.

It takes a lot of effort and $$ to get a manufacturer's "approval". These oils be it, engine, transmission, transfer case etc. when meeting the manufacturer's approval will NEVER have any question should any component fail and XX dealer claims that the oil you used does NOT meet spec and is NOT approved.

Getting any oil to "meet" is nothing more than the producer of the oil, run their own test and state it "meets" the specification set forth. Bereft of any 3rd. party verification.
Whereas when an oil is "approved", it is shown to and/or tested by the manufacturer to get their nod of approval.
Naturally there are some oil companies that produce a superior product and choose not to seek the approvals. Redline and Amsoil are two I can think of on a one by one basis and not across the entire product line.
Conversely there can be store branded oils that "meet" a spec, but often can break down and fail past early change intervals.

If you are still in warranty (I see you're not) I would strongly suggest one use "approved" lubricants.

I've asked this before albeit since I'm retired, I no longer have NASTAF access however, there has to be a bulletin from Kia that lists the approved lubricants? Does anyone have access to such and care to share please?

EDIT:
As I've alluded to many times in the past; Each dealer can flex their muscles as to a discretionary call of a failure. Some readily admit that XX part fails and we'll replace it. Others want to investigate and if they find a reason to deny a claim ("Your oil is not approved sir.") they will pursue that course of action.
In all my years in the business (some 40) I've never understood why some service departments are effing pricks, from A to Z...?
Others just want to help and represent the brand well.

 

[kentd]

Does anyone know of a AT filter replacement DIY writeup?

 

[RockOut]

Ended up buying the Kia brand ATF SP4M1 at a local dealer for $18.03/qt. One dealer wanted $30 each.

EDIT: just to confuse things, these are sold in 1 liter bottles, which I almost screwed up but fortunately double checked before pouring.

 

[Socal949]

For those that have done the transmission service of drain and fill. Did you guys replace the o rings and aluminum crush washer??