Does anyone know of a 7pin wiring harness aftermarket option? The OEM ~$150 after shipping is an unfortunate expense for this component.
Can you gentleman point me in the direction of the harness you ordered? I too ordered the tow kit bumper plate and decided to skip on the wiring harness for the obvious shipping up charge. Was notified today it’s all shipped so looking for the wiring harness to connect it all up on one go (I hope)This is what I did as well - OEM hitch and bumper cover from a parts store and then Curt 4 pin wiring harness from Amazon. I think I paid more like $37 or so though.
Just use the part number in my post above for the harness, google it, and see combined price + shipping.Can you gentleman point me in the direction of the harness you ordered? I too ordered the tow kit bumper plate and decided to skip on the wiring harness for the obvious shipping up charge. Was notified today it’s all shipped so looking for the wiring harness to connect it all up on one go (I hope)
You can look around for the Curt 56420. That's the aftermarket 4-pin flat that is plug and play for the Telluride and made by Curt. It has the tail lights rated for 7.5 Amps. Tekonsha also makes an inexpensive one (Tekonsha #118784), but I think it's rated for only 4 Amps at the tail lights while the Kia OEM 4-pin is 5 Amps. Which is not a bad thing if you have LED lights on the trailer, but if you have running lights or older halogens, you might consider needing a higher rating.Can you gentleman point me in the direction of the harness you ordered? I too ordered the tow kit bumper plate and decided to skip on the wiring harness for the obvious shipping up charge. Was notified today it’s all shipped so looking for the wiring harness to connect it all up on one go (I hope)
The Curt 56420 is plug and play. No additional fuses. The fuses should be already in the fuse box. You just plug into the 12-pin connection in the rear quarter panel.Quick question about a 4-pin wiring harness: I've seen a few mentions of having to add fuses if you don't have the towing package. Is that the case, or will it truly be plug and play? I have the OEM hitch but installed it myself - we don't have the tow packing. I'm planning to buy the Curt 56420. Thanks.
I will confirm for you with pictures but I think difference is about 2 3/4” because I remember measuring for someone else looking for a ball mount with 2” rise.Could someone with the factory hitch and Bumper Plate take a measurement? I'm trying to determine if one of the after market hitches will work with the KIA OEM Hitch Bumper Plate. What I need to know how high the the top of the receiver opening in the bumper plate is from ground.
The Curt hitch is 16" from the top of the receiver to the ground and the eTrailer hitch is 15 3/4" from the top of the receiver to the ground.
Thanks. I was hopping it would be closer and might require just a bit of trimming. 2 3/4" is a pretty big difference thoughI will confirm for you with pictures but I think difference is about 2 3/4” because I remember measuring for someone else looking for a ball mount with 2” rise.
Thanks. I was hopping it would be closer and might require just a bit of trimming. 2 3/4" is a pretty big difference though
This is good information. Thank you. Some of us, and me included, are not even to the level of being able to change oil or tires, etc. I don't feel comfortable doing any of that stuff. I spent several hours on this forum the last several weeks looking at all the posts related to installing a hitch and what's involved and trying to understand everything. It was confusing to my simple mind. I ended up getting a very reasonable quote from Ziebart (see attached) and I actually have the appointment today. Total cost = $595 + sales tax.This weekend I installed Kia's telluride tow hitch on my S. Attached are the instructions they provided. I wouldn't call myself a grease monkey, the extent of my expertise stops generally after oil changes and tire rotations and other minor activities, but this was still fairly easy. It took me about 2 hours taking my time.
I wasn't looking to tow anything of consequence so I didn't get any of the connecting wire parts. I only plan on putting a bike rack on there.
Basically you take the spare off.
Remove the current bumper cover.
Take a couple of the exhaust hangers off.
Put the tow hitch in position
Put the bolts in
Put in the new bumper cover part (another part required to purchase)
Put spare in.
Good to go.
I purchased from a local kia dealer. The parts guy there was great. I called months ago and he told me he would hold the parts for me and call me as soon as he got them in. He did indeed. Paid a little more than some of the stores online, but he called me right away - last wednesday, picked it up on thursday, and installed on Friday. Shoutout to Chris in parts at Kia of Sussex.
I know a couple people having been asking for the full instructions and wondering if it was worth a quoted $900 or so. I would say if you are a little handsy and want to take your time, I would go for it and cut that cost down in half.
I agree. Curt could have made their a little lower to avoid any cutting of the flat bumper panel or a little higher to fit exactly like stock with the tow hitch bumper panel insert.Thank for the pictures that really helps. It looks like it's not that far off after all. Only about 3/4". I put this side by side together in case anyone else has this question. It is frustrating that Curt just didn't make theirs the same height though so it would be a direct fit with the bumper plate.
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Do you have pictures of what they installed? They should have put a fuse or an auto resetting breaker inline. That would prevent the wires from melting. The fuse should blow or the breaker trips before the wire melts. Maybe an exposed or stripped wire somewhere is touching metal possibly from pulling the wire through a small hole or rubbing? Any idea what gauged thickness wire they put in? I would think 12-guage would be enough to pass power without overheating. If they put a higher number wire then it would be thinner and that could result in it melting. If they put an inline fuse, what Amp rating is the fuse? The amperage rating on the fuse will depend on the thickness of the wire. For example, a 12-gauge wire might require a 20A fuse, while a 10-gauge wire might require a 30A fuse.I had camping world install a wired brake controller and a Hopkins 7pin adapter to the 4pin, running wire up to the car battery. Twice now, when I’ve connected my trailer to the car and had shore power hooked up, the wiring shorts and smoke emits from the wire going to the car battery, melting through the wire covering. Not sure where to go from here. Installer says the Kia part is failing and Kia says that 3rd party installed items are not under warranty. Any thoughts?
2020telly thanks for the information. Here are some photos.Do you have pictures of what they installed? They should have put a fuse or an auto resetting breaker inline. That would prevent the wires from melting. The fuse should blow or the breaker trips before the wire melts. Maybe an exposed or stripped wire somewhere is touching metal possibly from pulling the wire through a small hole or rubbing? Any idea what gauged thickness wire they put in? I would think 12-guage would be enough to pass power without overheating. If they put a higher number wire then it would be thinner and that could result in it melting. If they put an inline fuse, what Amp rating is the fuse? The amperage rating on the fuse will depend on the thickness of the wire. For example, a 12-gauge wire might require a 20A fuse, while a 10-gauge wire might require a 30A fuse.