• Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my SUV" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your leather interior, please post in the Interior section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.
  • Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop

Installed Proximity Door Lock/Unlock Module

Any group buys this time?
 
Hi All,
Could I confirm 2 things about the Proximity module please? I've read conflicting reports in this thread.

1. Auto-lock works on a TIME + PROXIMITY detection, not just TIME.
i.e. the car should not lock unless the key is NOT detected + 10 seconds elapsed.

2. Auto-lock does NOT arm the alarm, just locks the doors.
Auto-unlock DOES disarm the alarm as expected.

Are these true?
 
So a question about the proximity module installation:

1. I understand that you have to remove the red wire from pin 63 and the blue wire from 62 and connect the B-CAN H(red) wire to the red wire from pin 63 and connect the B-Can L (blue) wire to the blue wire from pin 62. This will leave nothing in the pin 62/63 position at the end of this process.

2. For the next part, you have to remove the red wire from pin 9 and the black/gray wire from pin 4. Then you are supposed to put the 12v red wire into the pin 9 position and put the ground black wire into the pin 4 position. So what do you do with the red and black/gray wires that you just removed from the pin 9 and 4 position?

Thanks
 
tagged
______________________________
 
Another question:

In the initial step where you are supposed to move remove the hood release handle with a socket wrench: I used everything from 6-10mm and none of them fit over that little plastic piece effectively to remove it. How does that little plastic piece come out of the hood release handle? There are 4 little plastic parts in a circular pattern. Does it turn to get removed? Do they have to get squeezed together to remove the handle? I dont want to break the plastic trying to get the handle off.
 
Another question:

In the initial step where you are supposed to move remove the hood release handle with a socket wrench: I used everything from 6-10mm and none of them fit over that little plastic piece effectively to remove it. How does that little plastic piece come out of the hood release handle? There are 4 little plastic parts in a circular pattern. Does it turn to get removed? Do they have to get squeezed together to remove the handle? I dont want to break the plastic trying to get the handle off.
Mmm if it’s what I am thinking. You need to pry the plastic black cap off and the actual screw will be under the plastic black cap. I will double check after dinner and confirm this for you unless someone else chimes in before I do.
 
@JasonWolf

No wires are to be removed from the stock connectors...

The wires are to be tapped into only.

The wires are to maintain their original connections to maintain their basic function - the tapping into of the module wires modifies to add the proximity function.

In my case, didn't use the hood switch...
 
Another question:

In the initial step where you are supposed to move remove the hood release handle with a socket wrench: I used everything from 6-10mm and none of them fit over that little plastic piece effectively to remove it. How does that little plastic piece come out of the hood release handle? There are 4 little plastic parts in a circular pattern. Does it turn to get removed? Do they have to get squeezed together to remove the handle? I dont want to break the plastic trying to get the handle off.
I did the same thing as you with the sockets and it didn’t work. I finally just used a screwdriver and pried it off. It didn’t take much force to do it
 
I did the same thing as you with the sockets and it didn’t work. I finally just used a screwdriver and pried it off. It didn’t take much force to do it
pried off the handle itself with a screwdriver or pried off that little plastic round bolt piece in the divet within the handle?
 
@JasonWolf

No wires are to be removed from the stock connectors...

The wires are to be tapped into only.

The wires are to maintain their original connections to maintain their basic function - the tapping into of the module wires modifies to add the proximity function.

In my case, didn't use the hood switch...
Thank you for the explanation about the wires.

What do you mean you didn't use the hood switch? Are you saying you completed the installation of the module without removing the hood release handle?
______________________________
 
When the handle came off, what did that little bolt look like? How is it attached to that inner part? Does it just pop off or is it intended to be screwed off?
 
What do you mean you didn't use the hood switch? Are you saying you completed the installation of the module without removing the hood release handle?
I believe I was confused on what you're talking about...

You're removing the hood release handle inside the car to access the side panel.

I piggy-backed my proximity module to my aftermarket remote start module behind the glove box, so I didn't remove the hood release.

Disregard my comment on the hood question. Sorry for the confusion...
 
When the handle came off, what did that little bolt look like? How is it attached to that inner part? Does it just pop off or is it intended to be screwed off?
It is intended to be popped off. Nothing actually screws it down
______________________________
 
An update on the installation of the proximity module:

I ended up taking my Telluride in to have the module installed at my local Best Buy. For a $50k+ car, I was afraid that I was mess something up if I installed it myself.

They installed it in 20". It cost $25 out the door.

They said the posi-tap connectors can come off. They aren't allowed to use them for that reason so they directly soldered the wires together which they said will never come apart. I can't imagine this is a common occurrence but wanted to pass the message along.

I just wanted to let everyone know as I think Best Buy is a great option for installation when buying this device.

And it works great!!
 
They said the posi-tap connectors can come off.
👎

Only if they are installed incorrectly.

Used them on my motorcycle for many connections tapping into wires for adding lights - tapping wires inside the faring, under the seat, in the Tour-Pak - 8 years and 80,000 miles of much rougher vibrations than any other vehicle, never an issue...

FWIW
 
i have scanned through this thread and maybe i missed it but on panel MF11 what does pin 62 and 63 do? what is the function of these wires? The reason why im asking is because i came across this thread and im trying install running board lights to power with the proximity sensor and/or door handle lights and thought this may come in useful. I feel that this maybe just what im looking for but i didnt see any detailed description of what these wires do. Can someone please help me. Thanks
 
I bought one of these units and never got around to trying to install it. Anyone want it? $80 shipped in the US.
 




Back
Top