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Oil Filter Housing

I will have to reach out to klick but it worked great. Maybe they factor in the oil on the o ring. I have no leaks
 
I will have to reach out to klick but it worked great. Maybe they factor in the oil on the o ring. I have no leaks
Okay I just heard back from them. Stage 1 is 25nm and the second stage is about 35nm. They also can make a custom one where stage 1 is 35nm. Remember the the socket says 2 stage.
 
Okay I just heard back from them. Stage 1 is 25nm and the second stage is about 35nm. They also can make a custom one where stage 1 is 35nm. Remember the the socket says 2 stage.
Wow - they got back to you quickly, nice customer service! Thanks for sharing that information, it looks like a pretty slick item that would prevent over torqueing the housing.
 
Photos from today…that side of the frame isn’t going to rust with the amount of oil on it right now…
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Email I just got from the parts store I bought the oil filter housing from
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so i brought our '22 with 37k miles into the local kia dealer for a leak either higher on the oil filter housing or on the seal between the engine and the housing (which is what i suspect)...all i know is the source is higher than the pan or the filter cap due to where i can see oil...i wiped it clean and had a hard time establishing the exact source of the leak...i suspect it's temperature dependent...cold outside park it in the garage where it's insulated and then it leaks or when it cools it leaks...it's not consistent...when i talked to the dealer right off the bat tells me they charge a $130 if anything has been modified...the only things i have are a fumoto oil plug valve and the autostop eliminator...dealer took it for a drive a few times and could not reproduce the leak and said everything is in good working order...but they wanted to charge me the $130 for the fumoto valve cause they consider it a modification even though they did nothing aside from top off the oil (was midway on the dipstick when i brought it in)...they ended up not charging me and said not to bring it in with it installed or they will have to charge me (in my head i read that as ok so basically i won't be coming back to this dealer)...they also never reinstalled the plastic shield and bolts...just left it all in the back of the car...is this "modification charge" consistent across all kia dealers?...i feel like i'm going to have to call a dealer and ask ahead of time while blocking my phone number to see if they are going to charge me this fee prior to making an appointment...or just do everything myself (like i will with this issue) or have my local mechanic do it

i'm thinking of replacing just the $6 seal between the housing and the engine and see how it goes
Why are you chasing the leak/problem... why not the deal dealership, e.g. manufacturer?
 
Why are you chasing the leak/problem... why not the deal dealership, e.g. manufacturer?
did you read the post you quoted?
 
Here is the problem with this plastic oil filter housing abomination of engineering…2022 with 41k miles leaking all over the place…you can see what the gaskets look like on the old vs the new housing…next time I’ll be swapping out the gasket only…the problem is the bolt sleeves won’t let you compress the gasket any extra and the bolts are only torqued to 15 ft*lbs…on top of that I opened up the new one once it was mounted to put some oil on the housing cap gasket then I torqued it back to I’d say 34.5N*m and you can see that it’s tighter than how it was shipped looking at the white marks across the edge where the cap meets the housing body…top notch engineering over at Kia…did an engine flush and injector cleaning while I was at it…may as well waste some more time doing BS maintenance items that I’ve never had to do on any other car I’ve owned to this point…

And as I previously said, yes I realize it’s under warranty but when you have a local dealer that wants to charge $130 for a ”modification fee” for a Fumoto valve and at the same time can’t verify the source of the leak when there is no oil on the Fumoto, the leak is higher than the Fumoto and the awful looking sealing job on the oil pan and dealer does nothing to remedy the issue and says the car is “working as designed”…then you do it yourself…this wouldn't be as bad if Kia actually stood behind their products instead of trying to get out of warranty work all the time...my initial suspicions about Kia prior to buying one were right...they give you a good warranty cause you're going to need it and they will do everything they can to get out of performing the work
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"…the problem is the bolt sleeves won’t let you compress the gasket any extra and the bolts are only torqued to 15 ft*lbs…"

Are you saying the 15 ft* lbs is the recommended torque spec for those bolts? Seems quite low!

Thanks for the pics, they are helpful.
 
"…the problem is the bolt sleeves won’t let you compress the gasket any extra and the bolts are only torqued to 15 ft*lbs…"

Are you saying the 15 ft* lbs is the recommended torque spec for those bolts? Seems quite low!

Thanks for the pics, they are helpful.
see below post in this thread...
 
I'm going to upgrade my 2020 to an aluminum housing soon. My telly is at 69K miles.
 
Oh, I get it. Yes, removed old one. But this was first change and it was still in good shape. This is an extremely slow leak. Professional mechanic (not Kia) replaced filter today after thoroughly cleaning out housing; reseated new filter then cap with ring. After running for 4 minutes leak reappeared.
You must oil the O-ring good before re-installing the cap in the housing. If not, the O-ring will begin to rub the inside of the housing and Kink-up thus causing the leak.
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I'm going to upgrade my 2020 to an aluminum housing soon. My telly is at 69K miles.
make sure you swap it back to oem before bringing it to a dealer if you need any powertrain warranty work or for any reason really where they could make a note of it in their computer system...future reason to deny warranty coverage
 
"…the problem is the bolt sleeves won’t let you compress the gasket any extra and the bolts are only torqued to 15 ft*lbs…"

Are you saying the 15 ft* lbs is the recommended torque spec for those bolts? Seems quite low!

Thanks for the pics, they are helpful.
Not really. The sleeves in the housing prevent over torquing (distortion and/or cracking) the housing.
With these "Profile Gaskets" (Odd shape following O Rings) they shrink and loose ductilability. Making the housing tighter only further distorts the nylon housing and puts undue stress (read: can possibly damage) the threads of the bolts or the engine block.

The days of just make it a little bit tighter are LONG GONE, with the disappearance of the cork based valve cover and oil pan gaskets. If/when modern Profile Gaskets (funny shaped O Rings) leak, replace the gasket. If you dare, remove the part, take it to a fine piece of Emory cloth and a surface plate. Restore the mating surface again to flat. Clean and reinstall and torque.
 
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Not really. The sleeves in the housing prevent over torquing (distortion and/or cracking) the housing.
yup...and be extra careful torqueing it down if in cold weather...same goes for the housing cap...i torque my cap a little under recommended (maybe 1ft*lb less)...better to have to tighten it a little more if it leaks than crack it...it's not a case of if the housing will leak, its when will it leak
 
I tightened to 25nm not the 35nm that is says on the cap.
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yup...and be extra careful torqueing it down if in cold weather...same goes for the housing cap...i torque my cap a little under recommended (maybe 1ft*lb less)...better to have to tighten it a little more if it leaks than crack it...it's not a case of if the housing will leak, its when will it leak
Male and Female threads of oil filter should be dry for accurate torque. Torque specifications are always with dry threads UNLESS noted.
 
Just changed to an aluminum housing today on my '20. Nylon housing seemed to be warped on the top where it meets the block. Not much leakage. Just an annoyance.
 




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