Telluride full stereo upgrade experience - Part 1 Processor and amp

[eebling]

My concern with that feature is running audio equipment and the vehicle turns off

I was at a light earlier today and forgot to disable the auto off feature and after about 3 seconds of the car being off at the light, the bass amp either shut off or just went into protect mode or something. The bass dropped out, the main amp stayed on for all the door speakers and the moment the car turned back on the bass started up again. Cant see the bass amp from the drivers seat so not sure if it actually shuts off or just detected lower voltage and went into some sort of protection mode. A little annoying but I usually turn off that auto off feature.

 

[Scramschnits]

Has anyone confirmed if the front door channels receive a full signal? Thinking of tapping into the FL/FR for a subwoofer, and want to make sure there's no bass roll off before doing so.

 

[Teknobenji]

Has anyone confirmed if the front door channels receive a full signal? Thinking of tapping into the FL/FR for a subwoofer, and want to make sure there's no bass roll off before doing so.

Yes they get full signal, can confirm 100%. It is factory EQ’d but is full range.

 

[Scramschnits]

Yes they get full signal, can confirm 100%. It is factory EQ’d but is full range.

For models with the HK amp, or non? Judging from the diagram, it looks like the tweeters and woofers run on separate channels, but I've seen conflicting diagrams that show the tweeters tap into the same channel as the woofers. So, I am unsure if I can just pull a signal from the woofers (and call it a day), or if I will have to pull two signals and sum them together.

Thanks for confirming, regardless! I'm getting ready to add a better subwoofer, and see how it turns out before I consider complete speaker replacements....coming from a 3-way JL C7 setup, this HK system is giving me some serious buyers remorse.

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[Scramschnits]

Just did a full upgrade to mine - I'm using a DM-810 DSP for tuning everything.

Has anyone noticed an issue at higher volumes, where it almost sounds like the volume pulses? I'm coming from a 3-way active setup in a Mazda 6, so I'm curious if maybe I'm just not used to a 2-way active setup?

I'm also having an issue with the bass not hitting as hard as high volumes. I know the amps are all good, as I pulled them from that same Mazda 6, and everything hit real hard.

 

[Teknobenji]

Just did a full upgrade to mine - I'm using a DM-810 DSP for tuning everything.

Has anyone noticed an issue at higher volumes, where it almost sounds like the volume pulses? I'm coming from a 3-way active setup in a Mazda 6, so I'm curious if maybe I'm just not used to a 2-way active setup?

I'm also having an issue with the bass not hitting as hard as high volumes. I know the amps are all good, as I pulled them from that same Mazda 6, and everything hit real hard.

Have not had any pulsing issues. Have you tuned the Accubass? That is exactly what it overcomes; the roll off present in most factory head units - they have a great video on how to tune it

 

[Scramschnits]

Have not had any pulsing issues. Have you tuned the Accubass? That is exactly what it overcomes; the roll off present in most factory head units - they have a great video on how to tune it

Once I exceed a volume of 26, I start to hear certain channels almost dropping in and out in volume; almost like the OEM HK amp is pulling back voltage on these frequencies. I've worked around this by setting my input gains up all the way, so my max listening volume becomes 22-24.

I've also had no luck using Accubass on it - No matter how I adjust the threshold, what channels I use as it's input, or how much boost I add, I still can't get the bass to remain at a consistent volume with all the other speakers, and from 0-26; it almost always drops off significantly at 20, requiring me to manually increase bass volume using the ACR-3 knob.

It's clear there's a significant amount of processing and level adjustment going on, so I'm at a point now where I'm considering options to bypass the HK OEM amp entirely.

I spoke with idatalink on the phone, and they still don't have confirmed compatibility with 2022 Kia Tellurides - Only up to 2020, and no ETA on updating, sadly.

That leaves me considering something such as a Helix Ultra, and bypassing the amp manually, but losing volume controls from the stock head unit. I could always use a Conductor remote to adjust volume, but I'm really trying to avoid going that route.

 

[Teknobenji]

For models with the HK amp, or non? Judging from the diagram, it looks like the tweeters and woofers run on separate channels, but I've seen conflicting diagrams that show the tweeters tap into the same channel as the woofers. So, I am unsure if I can just pull a signal from the woofers (and call it a day), or if I will have to pull two signals and sum them together.

Thanks for confirming, regardless! I'm getting ready to add a better subwoofer, and see how it turns out before I consider complete speaker replacements....coming from a 3-way JL C7 setup, this HK system is giving me some serious buyers remorse.

That sucks! I purposefully ordered the base stereo knowing I would upgrade; so many issues with factory “upgrades” dealing with Bose in German cars is an absolute joke; it’s gut everything or suffer.
Ya

Once I exceed a volume of 26, I start to hear certain channels almost dropping in and out in volume; almost like the OEM HK amp is pulling back voltage on these frequencies. I've worked around this by setting my input gains up all the way, so my max listening volume becomes 22-24.

I've also had no luck using Accubass on it - No matter how I adjust the threshold, what channels I use as it's input, or how much boost I add, I still can't get the bass to remain at a consistent volume with all the other speakers, and from 0-26; it almost always drops off significantly at 20, requiring me to manually increase bass volume using the ACR-3 knob.

It's clear there's a significant amount of processing and level adjustment going on, so I'm at a point now where I'm considering options to bypass the HK OEM amp entirely.

I spoke with idatalink on the phone, and they still don't have confirmed compatibility with 2022 Kia Tellurides - Only up to 2020, and no ETA on updating, sadly.

That leaves me considering something such as a Helix Ultra, and bypassing the amp manually, but losing volume controls from the stock head unit. I could always use a Conductor remote to adjust volume, but I'm really trying to avoid going that route.

That seriously sucks. When we ordered ours I purposefully got the basic sounds system knowing we would upgrade; the “upgraded” factory options just fall short and create a lot of install issues. Like Bose in German cars- speaking of that- keep an eye on NAV-TV products; I had emailed them last year asking if they were making a Zen processor for the Kia, they may have it by now - they aren’t cheap but it’s the ONLY way I will do an install in a Porsche; it is a wicked high quality (errr and high cost) interface.
We have tried the idatalink with mixed results.
I agree - always hate the idea of loosing factory volume control, it’s a clunky workaround that you shouldn’t have to do .
Keep me posted-

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[Scramschnits]

That sucks! I purposefully ordered the base stereo knowing I would upgrade; so many issues with factory “upgrades” dealing with Bose in German cars is an absolute joke; it’s gut everything or suffer.
Ya



That seriously sucks. When we ordered ours I purposefully got the basic sounds system knowing we would upgrade; the “upgraded” factory options just fall short and create a lot of install issues. Like Bose in German cars- speaking of that- keep an eye on NAV-TV products; I had emailed them last year asking if they were making a Zen processor for the Kia, they may have it by now - they aren’t cheap but it’s the ONLY way I will do an install in a Porsche; it is a wicked high quality (errr and high cost) interface.
We have tried the idatalink with mixed results.
I agree - always hate the idea of loosing factory volume control, it’s a clunky workaround that you shouldn’t have to do .
Keep me posted-

Yeah, for sure I would have waited to receive a car with the base audio system. It's too bad there's no option to just swap out this head unit for a base unit head unit, which does not interface with an amp, because I would be all about it at this point.

I don't see any products for KIA listed on NAV-TV, so I sent them a message as well - I appreciate you pointing me in that direction!

 

[Teknobenji]

Yeah, for sure I would have waited to receive a car with the base audio system. It's too bad there's no option to just swap out this head unit for a base unit head unit, which does not interface with an amp, because I would be all about it at this point.

I don't see any products for KIA listed on NAV-TV, so I sent them a message as well - I appreciate you pointing me in that direction!

For sure; hopefully they are doing something?!? I would have expected it to be out (well, maybe given supply chain BS now) out of curiosity have you talked to Audio Control? I’ve had a few times over the years when they had good insight into the issue for a specific rig-

 

[ELCapiTRAN]

Anyone ever see an aftermarket for the telluride to output to a larger screen? That's all i really want but I have yet to see anything like it.

 

[zerosyce]

Hi everyone. I just got a Telluride LX and have been reading all of your postings. I am going to upgrade the stereo system using the knowledge yall have been sharing. I like the Factory head unit system - going to ad an Audio control D-5.1300 dsp amp and replace the factory speakers with Euphoria components up front and coax's rear and a 12" sub. Just ordered it and awaiting its arrival. I will take some pics when i start the install. In the meantime, THANK YOU for all the great knowledge and pics you all posted to help inspire me to get off my back side and get going.

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[HLXHLX]

Once I exceed a volume of 26, I start to hear certain channels almost dropping in and out in volume; almost like the OEM HK amp is pulling back voltage on these frequencies. I've worked around this by setting my input gains up all the way, so my max listening volume becomes 22-24.

I've also had no luck using Accubass on it - No matter how I adjust the threshold, what channels I use as it's input, or how much boost I add, I still can't get the bass to remain at a consistent volume with all the other speakers, and from 0-26; it almost always drops off significantly at 20, requiring me to manually increase bass volume using the ACR-3 knob.

It's clear there's a significant amount of processing and level adjustment going on, so I'm at a point now where I'm considering options to bypass the HK OEM amp entirely.

I spoke with idatalink on the phone, and they still don't have confirmed compatibility with 2022 Kia Tellurides - Only up to 2020, and no ETA on updating, sadly.

That leaves me considering something such as a Helix Ultra, and bypassing the amp manually, but losing volume controls from the stock head unit. I could always use a Conductor remote to adjust volume, but I'm really trying to avoid going that route.

Were you still using the factory H/K amp in your install? If so, did you install DM-810 pre- or post-H/K amp?

 

[Scramschnits]

Were you still using the factory H/K amp in your install? If so, did you install DM-810 pre- or post-H/K amp?

I was, except all the processing in the H/K amp was awful. Time alignment, all-pass filters, and the built in volume roll offs are so intricate that I couldn't get a consistent tune. I just tapped into the factory spdif lines and ran a coax from those into my DSP's digital coax input and called it a day. Sound is way more consistent, and my subwoofers slam me in the back of my head, as they did in my last car.

You lose head unit volume, EQ, and fade control, but it's a worthy trade off until someone develops an official harness that can communicate the CAM controls, pre H/K amp.

I'm using a DM-810, but I'm about to swap to my Helix Ultra and use the director remote to control main volume and subwoofer easily.

 

[HLXHLX]

I was, except all the processing in the H/K amp was awful. Time alignment, all-pass filters, and the built in volume roll offs are so intricate that I couldn't get a consistent tune. I just tapped into the factory spdif lines and ran a coax from those into my DSP's digital coax input and called it a day. Sound is way more consistent, and my subwoofers slam me in the back of my head, as they did in my last car.

You lose head unit volume, EQ, and fade control, but it's a worthy trade off until someone develops an official harness that can communicate the CAM controls, pre H/K amp.

I'm using a DM-810, but I'm about to swap to my Helix Ultra and use the director remote to control main volume and subwoofer easily.

So it sounds like there is additional processing in the H/K amp not only essential to maintaining full HU functionality, but also from a sound perspective for which the DM-810 cannot fully compensate. Would be ideal to just completely remove/bypass the H/K amp and replace with an aftermarket amp while keeping all HU controls. Audio Control has a few nice amps with other integrated controls and in an overall smaller footprint than multiple components.

 

[Scramschnits]

So it sounds like there is additional processing in the H/K amp not only essential to maintaining full HU functionality, but also from a sound perspective for which the DM-810 cannot fully compensate. Would be ideal to just completely remove/bypass the H/K amp and replace with an aftermarket amp while keeping all HU controls. Audio Control has a few nice amps with other integrated controls and in an overall smaller footprint than multiple components.

That's what I ended up doing - I bypassed most of the amp and have the spdif signal running to my Helix Ultra using a spliced digital coax.

The primary issue I'm having now, is some of the warning chimes are processed through the amp, so I don't have those working at the moment. When I ran the DM-810 with high-level input, all those chimes maintained, but then I had major issues with the factory signal roll off, time alignment, and EQ processing.

Still trying to find a way to tie in the chimes without causing too many issues. For now, I wired the center channel speaker back to the amp, but cut the factory SPDIF signal to the amp (so no music plays out of it) but it provides navigation voice. I'm thinking of wiring the front L/R high input to my Helix and assigning that to my front speakers, to have both navigation and warning chimes play through accordingly. This will be temporary until (hopefully) someone releases a product to make this more turn-key.

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[Teknobenji]

That's what I ended up doing - I bypassed most of the amp and have the spdif signal running to my Helix Ultra using a spliced digital coax.

The primary issue I'm having now, is some of the warning chimes are processed through the amp, so I don't have those working at the moment. When I ran the DM-810 with high-level input, all those chimes maintained, but then I had major issues with the factory signal roll off, time alignment, and EQ processing.

Still trying to find a way to tie in the chimes without causing too many issues. For now, I wired the center channel speaker back to the amp, but cut the factory SPDIF signal to the amp (so no music plays out of it) but it provides navigation voice. I'm thinking of wiring the front L/R high input to my Helix and assigning that to my front speakers, to have both navigation and warning chimes play through accordingly. This will be temporary until (hopefully) someone releases a product to make this more turn-key.

So frustrating!!!!

 

[HLXHLX]

That's what I ended up doing - I bypassed most of the amp and have the spdif signal running to my Helix Ultra using a spliced digital coax.

The primary issue I'm having now, is some of the warning chimes are processed through the amp, so I don't have those working at the moment. When I ran the DM-810 with high-level input, all those chimes maintained, but then I had major issues with the factory signal roll off, time alignment, and EQ processing.

Still trying to find a way to tie in the chimes without causing too many issues. For now, I wired the center channel speaker back to the amp, but cut the factory SPDIF signal to the amp (so no music plays out of it) but it provides navigation voice. I'm thinking of wiring the front L/R high input to my Helix and assigning that to my front speakers, to have both navigation and warning chimes play through accordingly. This will be temporary until (hopefully) someone releases a product to make this more turn-key.

Any updates and/or progress with your install???

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I was disappointed with the center dash speaker and disconnected it to create a more traditional "stereo" listening environment. In doing so, however, I noticed that the center speaker actually functioned almost like an alternate/supplemental right channel. Although music remains truly stereo from the R/L channels, navigation audio directions are now only received thru the left channel (nothing from the right channel). I can only assume this happens within the H/K amp to create a more driver-centric experience for those type of commands. Although not ideal for navigation audio, I still prefer music without that center speaker.

 

[Scramschnits]

Not much to report at the moment - Still bypassing the amp, and still trying to figure out how to integrate the factory chimes and proximity warnings through the Helix. I haven't had time to confirm if the warning chimes come through the standard audio channel (from the HK Amp) or through the Navigation audio, which I only have connected to the center channel for when I use Waze or Google Maps through AA. I still have the main SPDIF channel cut and spliced into a Coaxial cable, and running to my amp. The signal is pure and unmodified.

I thought I was about to hit a breakthrough when I discovered "Engineering Mode" for these Kia Infotainment systems. I noted an option that allows you to specify which kind of audio setup the car has (Internal H/U, HK Amp, etc...) but when I finally cracked through it, it doesn't allow you to change or specify the kind of amp you have - It's stuck on the H/K amp option...

It really is a shame how much these car manufacturers integrate an amp, and all the car's safety functions. It makes for an absolute bitch of a time trying to upgrade or update anything.

 

[Teknobenji]

Not much to report at the moment - Still bypassing the amp, and still trying to figure out how to integrate the factory chimes and proximity warnings through the Helix. I haven't had time to confirm if the warning chimes come through the standard audio channel (from the HK Amp) or through the Navigation audio, which I only have connected to the center channel for when I use Waze or Google Maps through AA. I still have the main SPDIF channel cut and spliced into a Coaxial cable, and running to my amp. The signal is pure and unmodified.

I thought I was about to hit a breakthrough when I discovered "Engineering Mode" for these Kia Infotainment systems. I noted an option that allows you to specify which kind of audio setup the car has (Internal H/U, HK Amp, etc...) but when I finally cracked through it, it doesn't allow you to change or specify the kind of amp you have - It's stuck on the H/K amp option...

It really is a shame how much these car manufacturers integrate an amp, and all the car's safety functions. It makes for an absolute bitch of a time trying to upgrade or update anything.

Shame is an understatement. When so much tech is standardized they do things that just don’t make sense or even likely save them money it is beyond frustrating to those of us who want something better and likely has had serious impact on the aftermarket world; easy for the average person to see the added difficulty and/or cost and just live with OEM crap.