Telluride full stereo upgrade experience - Part 1 Processor and amp

[Lakaiguy]

Would it be beneficial to find the factory HK amp and tap into the low level inputs for RCA connections to an aftermarket amp?

Or would I get the same results taping into the factory subwoofer and use a high to low LOC?

Just want to add aftermarket subwoofer & amplifier.

 

[rooty-j]

Getting the audio signal was easier than expected, drivers front and rear can be grabbed in the kick panel and passengers both in the passenger kick panel. I was able to make connections behind the molex box adding to a cleaner install. I routed the line level to the processor and new speaker signal from the amp back to the kick panel, making all signal connections behind the box; super clean and super easy!


View attachment 22995

I'm digging into my non-Harmon EX soon. Are both Passenger and Door front speaker wires buried in this passenger kick panel? I'm contemplating running new speaker wires for the fronts to connect my Focals to the factory head. Above that white plug is from the head/amp, then past the plug, it runs down to feed the speakers?

 

[Socal949]

I'm digging into my non-Harmon EX soon. Are both Passenger and Door front speaker wires buried in this passenger kick panel? I'm contemplating running new speaker wires for the fronts to connect my Focals to the factory head. Above that white plug is from the head/amp, then past the plug, it runs down to feed the speakers?

Following this as I have an EX with the non Harmon as well.

 

[Teknobenji]

I'm digging into my non-Harmon EX soon. Are both Passenger and Door front speaker wires buried in this passenger kick panel? I'm contemplating running new speaker wires for the fronts to connect my Focals to the factory head. Above that white plug is from the head/amp, then past the plug, it runs down to feed the speakers?

If you look at my 1st post pics youll see the BACK of the box you are looking at, yes it contains the front and rear speakers for the relevant side of the car. I can tell you from professional experience you will gain absolutely nothing running new wire from the head unit to the speakers; and the headache of gett8ing into these doors....... fortunately it is not the worst OEM wire, roughly 16ga, you would really need to be running some ridiculous power to benefit from larger/better wire for such short runs; it just doesn't add that much resistance.

______________________________

 

[rooty-j]

If you look at my 1st post pics youll see the BACK of the box you are looking at, yes it contains the front and rear speakers for the relevant side of the car. I can tell you from professional experience you will gain absolutely nothing running new wire from the head unit to the speakers; and the headache of gett8ing into these doors....... fortunately it is not the worst OEM wire, roughly 16ga, you would really need to be running some ridiculous power to benefit from larger/better wire for such short runs; it just doesn't add that much resistance.

Yeah, I appreciate that! This means I have to mount the crossovers in the door though. That not a concern?

 

[G-751521]

Yeah, I appreciate that! This means I have to mount the crossovers in the door though. That not a concern?

There is good protected space; I’m running Morels in there now and had no issue !

 

[rooty-j]

If you look at my 1st post pics youll see the BACK of the box you are looking at, yes it contains the front and rear speakers for the relevant side of the car. I can tell you from professional experience you will gain absolutely nothing running new wire from the head unit to the speakers; and the headache of gett8ing into these doors....... fortunately it is not the worst OEM wire, roughly 16ga, you would really need to be running some ridiculous power to benefit from larger/better wire for such short runs; it just doesn't add that much resistance.

The signal/amp side is coming from the bottom and the speaker side is on top (the white plug)?

 

[rooty-j]

I'm pretty sure I totally reversed it in my post above. I was doing some testing with the multimeter just now. Either way, I'll find out tomorrow when I start digging in.

______________________________

 

[Tellyman23]

I'm pretty sure I totally reversed it in my post above. I was doing some testing with the multimeter just now. Either way, I'll find out tomorrow when I start digging in.

Is it the other way around?

 

[Jcourterier]

Part 2 - SpeakersView attachment 22998View attachment 22999View attachment 23000View attachment 23001View attachment 23002View attachment 23004
For the door speakers after removing the door panel I sprayed the interior of the door with RBlox (essentially its rubber/butyl undercoating that absorbs and dampens noise) then used a dynamat type product in some key locations, followed by some closed foam mat on top of the speaker mount to ensure a good seal. I chose to pull the OEM speaker, remove it from its plastic housing and reuse the housing; I certainly cannot make something better fitting. After tearing the speaker out I trimmed the lip off, scraped it clean with a gasket scraper and made some ¼” ABS rings to fit the new midbass into (they were slightly smaller and I needed a good seal, the rear speaker did not require the additional ring)

Hey Benji, any chance you have a speaker wire diagram showing what colors are for what speakers? I am trying to connect at the kick panels as you did.

The signal/amp side is coming from the bottom and the speaker side is on top (the white plug)?

Part 2 - SpeakersView attachment 22998View attachment 22999View attachment 23000View attachment 23001View attachment 23002View attachment 23004
For the door speakers after removing the door panel I sprayed the interior of the door with RBlox (essentially its rubber/butyl undercoating that absorbs and dampens noise) then used a dynamat type product in some key locations, followed by some closed foam mat on top of the speaker mount to ensure a good seal. I chose to pull the OEM speaker, remove it from its plastic housing and reuse the housing; I certainly cannot make something better fitting. After tearing the speaker out I trimmed the lip off, scraped it clean with a gasket scraper and made some ¼” ABS rings to fit the new midbass into (they were slightly smaller and I needed a good seal, the rear speaker did not require the additional ring)

 

[Teknobenji]

Hey Benji, any chance you have a speaker wire diagram showing what colors are for what speakers? I am trying to connect at the kick panels as you did.

 

[Jcourterier]

Thank you so much, you saved me a lot of time and possibly burning some stuff up, lol.

______________________________

 

[Teknobenji]

Thank you so much, you saved me a lot of time and possibly burning some stuff up, lol.

lol! youre welcome!

 

[Jcourterier]

lol! youre welcome!

Hello again, just wondering if you noticed raspy/edgy tweeters before or after your upgrade. My front door tweeters were annoying before I upgraded everything, now it’s worse, lol. Any tips? I’m using a job dsp4086, hertz desk 165.3 in the front, hertz dcx 165.3 in back and a 10” jl sub. Any help would be appreciated. Also, can’t seem to eq the harsh tweeters out with the dsp. Thanks, Jeff

 

[Jcourterier]

Hello again, just wondering if you noticed raspy/edgy tweeters before or after your upgrade. My front door tweeters were annoying before I upgraded everything, now it’s worse, lol. Any tips? I’m using a job dsp4086, hertz desk 165.3 in the front, hertz dcx 165.3 in back and a 10” jl sub. Any help would be appreciated. Also, can’t seem to eq the harsh tweeters out with the dsp. Thanks, Jeff

Jbl dsp4086
Hertz dsk 165.3 front
Love that spell correcter

 

[Teknobenji]

Hello again, just wondering if you noticed raspy/edgy tweeters before or after your upgrade. My front door tweeters were annoying before I upgraded everything, now it’s worse, lol. Any tips? I’m using a job dsp4086, hertz desk 165.3 in the front, hertz dcx 165.3 in back and a 10” jl sub. Any help would be appreciated. Also, can’t seem to eq the harsh tweeters out with the dsp. Thanks, Jeff

no; tbh I didn't pay attention to before the upgrade but certainly do not experience that after, guessing its just the tweeter or they need to break in more? (I'm running Morel up front now)

______________________________

 

[ohsonise]

Part 2 - SpeakersView attachment 22998View attachment 22999View attachment 23000View attachment 23001View attachment 23002View attachment 23004
For the door speakers after removing the door panel I sprayed the interior of the door with RBlox (essentially its rubber/butyl undercoating that absorbs and dampens noise) then used a dynamat type product in some key locations, followed by some closed foam mat on top of the speaker mount to ensure a good seal. I chose to pull the OEM speaker, remove it from its plastic housing and reuse the housing; I certainly cannot make something better fitting. After tearing the speaker out I trimmed the lip off, scraped it clean with a gasket scraper and made some ¼” ABS rings to fit the new midbass into (they were slightly smaller and I needed a good seal, the rear speaker did not require the additional ring)

hey love the detail brake down of the install can you do share how you were able to get the OEM speakers out of the housing? and what size speakers did you use?

thank you

 

[Venbone]

were the factory subs only with the HK systems?

 

[Latinwings91]

The signal/amp side is coming from the bottom and the speaker side is on top (the white plug)?

The signal/amp side is coming from the bottom and the speaker side is on top (the white plug)?

Hi, I can't seem to open this picture to get a better look. Is there an issue with the link?

 

[Latinwings91]

Shoot… Can’t open these either.