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TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS

rlrsk8r

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I'm in central Ohio and I have a 2020 Telluride with about 160,000 miles on it.
The battery light came on and then it went off a few miles later. It came on again and went off. It did this several more times and then it came on solid. The car had been operating perfectly but during this time the car started shifting erratically. I conveniently stopped at and had my mechanic check and test drive it. He said these newer cars which are computer controlled will cause all sorts of crazy problems when the line voltage gets low. While I was driving it during this alternator anomaly, which then died completely, the car started shifting abnormally. It would slam from one gear to the next intermittently and during this time the dash lights all lit up and then started to dim, which suggested to me 'alternator problem'.
The car is new enough that the parts stores do not have a listing on a replacement alternator. The dealer wanted over $700 for just the alternator so I called a dozen salvage yards and none of them locally had an alternator. I was referred to a foreign car yard about 100 miles away who I have dealt with in the past. They had a wreck with one showing, but it turned out to be broken. They referred me to a yard in Cincinnati, who also had a wreck, but it too was broken.
I checked car-part.com that has yards all over the country subscribing to it and found one in South Bend Indiana. They shipped it to my mechanic and he installed it. That fixed the voltage problem, but it still had the shifting problem.
I had a local transmission shop test drive it and he suggested the program for the computer program that controls the transmission could have been corrupted by the low-voltage. He referred me to another shop locally. Long story short, when I talked with him, he said he probably wouldn’t be able to reprogram the computer and referred me to the KIA dealer.
I made an appointment.
The service manager called me back and I explained everything about the symptom and he said that it would be best if his master tech looked at the car. He said the car is drivable as long as I don’t push it hard. I typically do not push it hard.
They put it on their diagnostic computer and did a software upgrade the factory had called for but that did not fix the shifting problem. He recommended an automatic transaxle replacement. The service writer could not answer why this recommendation was made, and I was unable to talk with the technician who worked (?) on my car. I asked the service writer if it would damage the transmission if I continue driving it and she emphatically said YES. They wanted $1950 labor plus $1300 for the remanufactured transmission and $125 for ATF plus $36 to flush the transmission cooler totaling $3400.
Seems to me dealerships only want to replace major PARTS (BIG profit plus hourrs of labor @125/hour) rather than looking for a sensor or control module, which might cause this problem. It seems their only goal is to reap as much money from the customer as they can possibly rape.
I do not believe their diagnosis when the car had been running perfectly prior to this.
I don’t understand how a low bus voltage from a bad alternator would ruin a transmission (which was driven less than 50 miles during the transmission misbehavior), which is purely mechanical except for the computer sensors/module which tell it when to shift into the new gear.
Somewhere here I saw something about a transmission control module so I asked my mechanic about that and he said a used $60 module is a far better gamble than $3500 for a transmission replacement.
BTW, the dealer said no codes showed up on their scan after the program update.
Can anyone explain something about this anomaly and why the dealer only wants to replace rather than diagnose the REAL problem ?
 
I have a ScanGauge. My voltage is always fluctuating. Sometimes below acceptable battery voltage. I don’t think my alternator is long for this world. And it’s a brand new car.
 
I have the exact same problem on my 2020! I have 74,000 miles on mine. I came home from vacation on Monday, and the car sat at the airport for the week. I drove it home, and about 5 minutes from my house the Red Battery Icon started flickering. I charged the battery to be safe. I had a meeting Wednesday, and the battery light would go out at first after 2000 RPMs but then return, and then became solid. I was driving home on the highway, and all of a sudden the Steering Wheel with Explanation symbol (EPS system) and then the car started shutting down and surging. I lost power steering and no acceleration, entire car went black and dark. I made it off the exit (barely) and after my turn it lost power and was stranded about 10 feet from a business driveway. Had to wait for a tow (2 hours) and took it to the dealership where they said bad alternator. Warranty on alternator is 5yr/60k miles. $2013.00 later (since the alternator is a proprietary Kia/Hyundai part and assload of Kia labor).
Went to go pick up car this morning and my wife drove off with it with me following in another car. She called and said the car was "jerking". I met her at the dealership, and they have a service road next to it so i shot down the road and nothing happened. Drove it, and started to get on the highway and it started to feel the jerk in low gear (1st or 2nd). Got on the highway and it started doing it severely, and no acceleration. Got off the next exit, and when it turned the car would not accelerate past 25 mph, and i had to feather the pedal to get the car to move but not jerk. Ended up getting pulled over by local PD for going 25, explained it, and let me go within 15 seconds and made it back to Kia Dealership. Freaked them out that I was back quickly. About 4 hours later they called and said I needed a new transmission, and it was under warranty for being the powertrain and original owner. I did have them service the transmission a year ago as well, and they have that on record.

I don't know, but this car seems to get issues between 60-75k miles, where this should or would happen in the past with other cars at 200-250k. I'm really unhappy with the amount of issues I've had with this car in 5 years of ownership. Not to mention at 60k it has oil consumption as well.

I would like to know with OP what the outcome was!
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I would like to know with OP what the outcome was!

So would I...

I've seen countless transmissions that were/are VERY fixable, doing all sorts of weird things. Owing to hardened/dried seals between the valve body and/or solenoids going bad. Dealership techs know only ONE thing, Replace the entire transmission.
 




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