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Remote start

Did send them an email asking why they didn't make the fuse block side a t-harness as well - looks like it could'a been made 100% P+P for either takeover or non...

Got a reply on this... said the module and red & green plugs fit several vehicles that all have different plugs on the fuse block side - wasn't cost effective for them to make all the different fuse block fitments... unfortunately makes sense...
 
Also, is there a long range option with an antenna wire, did you install that?

These are the instructions on both the takeover and non-takeover versions. Long range remote suggests to install the antenna high on the windshield.

Car app antenna on the dash is enough.

2E6D821C-D125-470F-9D25-4BC575078EDB.webp
 
Got a reply on this... said the module and red & green plugs fit several vehicles that all have different plugs on the fuse block side - wasn't cost effective for them to make all the different fuse block fitments... unfortunately makes sense...

Maybe if only there is a member on this forum with a 3D printer who can help us out. 👌 Turn takeover 100% P&P into a reality.

Just placed an order for the smart app version with takeover. Thanks again @bogie for the discount code and @rwhite4573 for sharing the instructions. Made my decision much easier.
 
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Or someone who has:
- the correct part numbers for the mating male & female plastic housings
- the correct part numbers for the mating male and female pins for inside the housings
- the crimping tool for the pins
- and a source to order from...

I could probably wire the passthru...
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Ordered the takeover version... they sent me the non takeover. I am debating on just keeping the non takeover. I sent them an email telling them the wrong item was sent and they responded asking me to send pics of the unit I received. I did that within 10 minutes... crickets since. If i keep the non takeover i would like them to refund the $30 difference.
 
Ordered the takeover version... they sent me the non takeover. I am debating on just keeping the non takeover. I sent them an email telling them the wrong item was sent and they responded asking me to send pics of the unit I received. I did that within 10 minutes... crickets since. If i keep the non takeover i would like them to refund the $30 difference.

I'm sure they will refund your 30$. I haven't installed mine yet. I ordered the takeover and I'm glad I did. The 2 splices and 30$ for me is worth not dealing with the telly shutting off everytime I open the door. That's just me
 
finally heard back from them and they refunded my money already. going to install the non takeover as soon as the wife gets back from her trip this Friday.
 
For those wanting the take over version just use Posi-Taps for the two wires. Been using them on very expensive BMW motorcycles for years. They just put a pin size hole in the tapped wire insulation and are very secure. Once removed you cannot even tell the wire jacket was pierced.
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For those wanting the take over version just use Posi-Taps for the two wires. Been using them on very expensive BMW motorcycles for years. They just put a pin size hole in the tapped wire insulation and are very secure. Once removed you cannot even tell the wire jacket was pierced.
Nice! I assume the telluride wires to be tapped are small (20 gauge or smaller). What gauge are the take over wires?
 
Nice! I assume the telluride wires to be tapped are small (20 gauge or smaller). What gauge are the take over wires?

I don't know but Posi-Taps come in many different sizes. Definitely want to use the right size so you don't trash the wire. I'm guessing the Telly would take the red with gray cap for 20 - 22 gauge wires. You won't find these at auto part stores so Amazon or Ebay is your source.

I strongly recommend staying away from the Scotch Lock wire taps even if they come in the kit. Those things suck and will damage you Telly's wires.

Another options are the fuse taps. Probably the route I would go since I have a bunch of them. They don't poke any holes in any wires.

 
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For those wanting the take over version just use Posi-Taps for the two wires. Been using them on very expensive BMW motorcycles for years. They just put a pin size hole in the tapped wire insulation and are very secure. Once removed you cannot even tell the wire jacket was pierced.

Can't believe I've never heard of these. I refuse to use the quick splice connectors, so I always solder. Will have to give these a try.

Can someone remind me.... does this system void any warranty if installed by a non-licensed entity... such as myself?
 
Can't believe I've never heard of these. I refuse to use the quick splice connectors, so I always solder. Will have to give these a try.

Can someone remind me.... does this system void any warranty if installed by a non-licensed entity... such as myself?
They told me in an email it doesn’t void but don’t know otherwise
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Can't believe I've never heard of these. I refuse to use the quick splice connectors, so I always solder. Will have to give these a try.

Can someone remind me.... does this system void any warranty if installed by a non-licensed entity... such as myself?

They are the next best thing since the invention of the wheel. Can't believe most professional outfits don't use them. Posi-Tap claims the connection is waterproof and I believe it. Never had one fail on my motorcycles. I had a few taps on an R1200GSA that I took to the Artic Circle and back. 11,000 miles in 23 days and the big boxer motors have a lot of vibration. I usually put a dab on silicone where the accessory wire enters the Posi-Tap for extra waterproofing. Not needed on the Telluride unless you plan to ford three foot streams :ROFLMAO:

I suck at soldering so I when I was young and careless I would use the Scotch Locks and experienced many a cut wire. Someone clued me in about Posi-Taps years ago and I never looked back. I know I sound like a salesman but that's how much I love these things.
 
For those wanting the take over version just use Posi-Taps for the two wires. Been using them on very expensive BMW motorcycles for years. They just put a pin size hole in the tapped wire insulation and are very secure. Once removed you cannot even tell the wire jacket was pierced.
Can't believe I've never heard of these. I refuse to use the quick splice connectors, so I always solder. Will have to give these a try.

Can someone remind me.... does this system void any warranty if installed by a non-licensed entity... such as myself?

This is amazing. Also never heard of this brand but it looks so ingenious. I’ve only ever used connectors similar to Scotch locks.

@joeyvans I think the common answer is if Kia cannot prove your mod had any impact on the warranty claim issue, it should not be voided.

The plug and play connectors are so easy to install and remove if needed to take out before servicing.

With the Posi-tap, looks like after you remove them it could be very hard to tell the wires were ever tapped into in the first place. At least much less obvious than soldering.

Thanks again @hammick. I will be ordering some of these when I figure out the correct wire gauge. Unless @rwhite4573 can help us out with the gauge measurement. Or I can order the assortment pack.

 
Tellthemride

I will check tonight on the wire gauge size.

The instructions recommend a Poke/wrap or a solder.
 
Too bad it's not on the FOB as well. I imagine that you have to pay for a data plan for it to work.
I received delivery yesterday and the first thing showed to me was auto start from the FOB...2021.
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I received delivery yesterday and the first thing showed to me was auto start from the FOB...2021.

Not nice to rub it in... :mad:

Just kidding... glad they changed it for those going forward... :)
 
So to clarify, a 2021 remote start operation means you press lock button once then the remote start on the fob. The aftermarket that is plug and play for the 2020 you keep the existing fob and press lock three times to remote start. Did I get that right?
 
This is amazing. Also never heard of this brand but it looks so ingenious. I’ve only ever used connectors similar to Scotch locks.

@joeyvans I think the common answer is if Kia cannot prove your mod had any impact on the warranty claim issue, it should not be voided.

The plug and play connectors are so easy to install and remove if needed to take out before servicing.

With the Posi-tap, looks like after you remove them it could be very hard to tell the wires were ever tapped into in the first place. At least much less obvious than soldering.

Thanks again @hammick. I will be ordering some of these when I figure out the correct wire gauge. Unless @rwhite4573 can help us out with the gauge measurement. Or I can order the assortment pack.


Tellthemride,

I took off the fuse box cover. Much to my surprise there were already T Splices connected to the yellow and red wire. Traced them back to an alarm the dealer added which I did not pay for. Dealer must of de activated the aftermarket alarm. Pictures of alarm appear to be a Karr brand. $50 and the dealer wanted $950.

I measured the diameter of the KFOB Module wires and the connector wires on the Telly and they appear to be 12 Gauge wire. I checked the yellow T splice connector and yes, yellow was for 12 gauge. Since I removed the yellow connector, it will be easy to poke and wrap connections.
 

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