• Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
    If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my SUV" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your leather interior, please post in the Interior section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner.
  • Car enthusiast? Join us on Cars Connected! iOS | Android | Desktop

2023 SX X-Line Stereo Upgrade - Where to start

I was just utilizing the crutchfield suggestion. It does say they are compatible for a 2023 telly just not my 2022. I was curious if there is a difference between vehicles.
I see the ISU165's are shallow over the 165AS.

Originally, a senior guy at Crutchfield was the one who directed me to the ISU's. They are shallow, despite entry level for Focal.
I forgot about the depth.

When auditioning the 165AS was clearly better.

We need confirmation from Crutchfield, as they actually have the specs to our doors.

I'm about to call them.

Back to you with an update.
 
I was just utilizing the crutchfield suggestion. It does say they are compatible for a 2023 telly just not my 2022. I was curious if there is a difference between vehicles.
Just got off the phone with Crutchfield. Here you go:

Maximum Depth on the 165AS is 2.506” depth
Crutchfield in house Spec says the Telluride doors are 2.9”
Factory Harmon Kardon speakers are 2.2”

In summary, the 165AS will indeed fit.
 
Just got off the phone with Crutchfield. Here you go:

Maximum Depth on the 165AS is 2.506” depth
Crutchfield in house Spec says the Telluride doors are 2.9”
Factory Harmon Kardon speakers are 2.2”

In summary, the 165AS will indeed fit.
Awesome! I appreciate your due diligence.
 
Awesome! I appreciate your due diligence.
No worries. We'll just go ahead and Invoice you Net 30. Go ahead and flip your card over. There's 3-Digits on the back....I'm ready when you are!

Couldn't resist! The pleasure is mine. :cool:
______________________________
 
I ended up cutting and modding the HK speakers, and mounted my speakers directly on to those. As long as you take care to seal and gasket them, they appear to be working quite well - Especially with proper door deadening.
Do you have any idea, using this method, what the max depth would be?
 
Do you have any idea, using this method, what the max depth would be?
I'm not so sure - I mounted both JL C7 and C5 6.5" speakers in the doors, going this route, and had no issues with clearance inside the door, or the door panel.
 
Any reason you opted to sum the signal with the Wavetech, rather than bypass the amp entirely? This is what I originally did (with a DM-810), however ran into some really nasty bass roll off (even with Acubass applied) and all-pass filters that engage heavily around a volume of 20-23. If you enable any bass boost through the stock infotainment system, it also appears to have some level of clipping protection and will create these weird volume drops around certain frequencies. All this is what caused me to bypass the HK amp entirely, create a custom harness, and opt to control the volume through the Helix Ultra.

Since using the DSR1 as a line-out converter, it's all entirely stock (minus the loss of surround sound and rear "talk" function). All factory chimes, beeps, phone, and navigation work and can be volume controlled through the Infotainment settings.
Not sure if you know this, but you may be now getting a 2-Channel Stereo signal, as your 5.1 surround sound is no longer?
 
Not sure if you know this, but you may be now getting a 2-Channel Stereo signal, as your 5.1 surround sound is no longer?
100% aware of it.

The factory signal is provided via digital SPDIF from the factory headunit. This is then provided to the HK amp, where the signal is split into separate processed channels to provide conversion from stereo to "Surround Sound". That process signal is then separated between all speaker groups and limits frequency response accordingly. These Infotainment systems do not provide a clean, factory 5.1 signal - It's all processing from the HK amp.

Thus, my quest to convert the factory SPDIF to a clean, usable output that feeds into my Helix DSP. The DSR1 does a pretty decent job at providing a clean signal, with the bonus of retaining all the factory chimes and navigation volume control right from the stock Infotainment. Before doing this, I soldered a digital Coax cable to the factory SPDIF +/- wires at the harness, which was then fed to the Helix Ultra's Coax input. While the signal was super clean, I lost all volume, EQ, chime, and navigation controls from the Infotainment. I had to tap into processed audio signals (after the HK amp, while it was still partially connected) to regain factory chimes and navigation control to a degree - I had no way of adjusting phone call volume at all.

I'm not missing anything by losing the factory 5.1. Proper speaker placement, time alignment, and crossover points were enough to open up the stage on the front dash far beyond what the stock HK system was capable of. If I close my eyes, I cannot locate or isolate a single speaker in the setup - It is pure bliss.
______________________________
 
Hope install goes well. I am excited to hear about your results and have been following your posts as you have gone down this rabbit hole. I appreciate your research and leg work on this and may replicate your work if all goes well.
 
Just wondering has anyone tapped into the factory sub wiring to run to an aftermarket sub? I was thinking of adding a powered sub to the cargo area and was hoping to not have to tap in the middle of the vehicle.
 
Just wondering has anyone tapped into the factory sub wiring to run to an aftermarket sub? I was thinking of adding a powered sub to the cargo area and was hoping to not have to tap in the middle of the vehicle.
Have you searched on YouTube? I recall watching a sub video.
Don't forget to include Palisade on your search.
 
Just wondering has anyone tapped into the factory sub wiring to run to an aftermarket sub? I was thinking of adding a powered sub to the cargo area and was hoping to not have to tap in the middle of the vehicle.
The factory sub signal has heavy roll off, and limited frequency response, so if you upgrade to a better subwoofer I would suggest considering tapping into the front door speakers. I know it's not the response you want to hear, but it will provide the best result.

I've attached a copy of the wire harness layout that I paid for, when I was creating a custom wire harness.
______________________________
 

Attachments

  • AmpConnectors.webp
    AmpConnectors.webp
    69.8 KB · Views: 44
Scramschnits,

Will I have a problem or issue with just removing and replacing the factory sub with the
  • Focal P 20 FSE 8” Shallow Sub?
 
Scramschnits,

Will I have a problem or issue with just removing and replacing the factory sub with the
  • Focal P 20 FSE 8” Shallow Sub?
You would need to create a custom bracket, and then toss tons of sound dampening material all around it to prevent the panels from vibrating and such. Most people don't try to replace factory subs, and use the same location, because of the complications and outcome. You would be better off using a sub enclosure as designed and recommend by the sub manufacturer.
 
The factory sub signal has heavy roll off, and limited frequency response, so if you upgrade to a better subwoofer I would suggest considering tapping into the front door speakers. I know it's not the response you want to hear, but it will provide the best result.

I've attached a copy of the wire harness layout that I paid for, when I was creating a custom wire harness.
Thank you for this!
 
The factory sub signal has heavy roll off, and limited frequency response, so if you upgrade to a better subwoofer I would suggest considering tapping into the front door speakers. I know it's not the response you want to hear, but it will provide the best result.

I've attached a copy of the wire harness layout that I paid for, when I was creating a custom wire harness.

Agreed...pull from the front door signal for an aftermarket sub. My solution to avoid tapping factory wires:
______________________________
 
Do you still make these? If so I would be happy to purchase one.
 




Back
Top