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DIY Transmission Fluid - Drain and Fill

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Husker Soze

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I decided to replace my transmission fluid at 30K miles using the drain and fill method.

Here's a quick summary:

- Remove the plastic under panel (to include the small panel you remove during oil filter change)
- Drain bolt for the transmission is a 24mm (you can use a 15/16 if you don't have a 24mm)
- I drained approximately 3.5 qts
- Used Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic
- I don't have service manual, so I tightened the drain bolt to 35 ft/lbs (based on some YT videos on the Palisade and Sorento)
- I also removed the front fill plug just to make sure I can see the new fluid overflowing out during the fill
- I used a long funnel and filled from the top fill hole
- I've put approximately 3 1/4 qts when it started overflowing from the front fill hole
- I secured the front fill plug and added another 1/4 qt of fluid (8 oz) on the top fill bolt / plug

NOTE:
- I basically replaced the same amount that I drained (3.5 qts)
- Be sure to fill SLOWLY when filling from the top fill hole--it will overflow if you just pour the transmission fluid
- Go through all the gears and take it for a test drive
- Check for leaks
 

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Sorry for a stupid question, but what made you decide to change the fluid? If I'm reading the owner's manual correctly, it says that changing transmission fluid is not required.
 
”Fresh transmission fluid has good cleaning properties. This can wash away varnish from the clutch pack, causing clutch slippage. While Flushing the transmission with a machine can damage aging seals (due to high pressure), which can cause leakage and hydraulic problems”. With that said, replacing (preferably by drain and fill) transmission fluids “early” will keep the cleaning and lubricant properties of the fluid effective. This should behoove one to do more frequent fluid changes to avoid dirt bulid up in the first place that causes debris to circulate around when disturbed with transmission flush and the seals to break down. A much more gentler drain and fill will minimize this disturbance although if done late and infrequent may still harm the transmisiion, as mentioned above. Here’s a link—Can Changing Transmission Fluid be Bad? | Flush vs Change | Problems
______________________________
 
Sorry for a stupid question, but what made you decide to change the fluid? If I'm reading the owner's manual correctly, it says that changing transmission fluid is not required.
Oil has the following properties—detergent, dispersant, coolant and lubricant. A clean oil (or transmission fluid) will keep its properties at a maximum when replaced timely. Dirty oil forms sludge that will clog up transmission leading to hard and erratic shifting because of decreased flow. So, yes, we want to keep our oil fresh (or replenished, at least) by doing timely maintenance. Thanks!
 
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Sorry for a stupid question, but what made you decide to change the fluid? If I'm reading the owner's manual correctly, it says that changing transmission fluid is not required.
I follow the severe maintenance schedule, which states that you have to replace your ATF every 60K. So since I’m not replacing all the fluid, I figured 30K would be a good point to check the condition of the fluid.

….And would echo what @beato1 stated as well
 
I follow the severe maintenance schedule, which states that you have to replace your ATF every 60K. So since I’m not replacing all the fluid, I figured 30K would be a good point to check the condition of the fluid.

….And would echo what @beato1 stated as well
I was thinking of the same thing. I plan to change the transmission fluid at around 30-40k miles (drain and fill only). Coolant at around 50k. I change my oil now (since Telluride) at 3-4k miles. I think that following the severe maintenance schedule is the key to prolonging the life of the car's engine and transmission. This covers most types of driving styles and conditions (stop and go, frequent slow driving, idling, city driving, fast driving, frequent short trips, infrequent trips, towing, etc). That is, if we want to keep the car for many years. Thanks.
 
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I decided to replace my transmission fluid at 30K miles using the drain and fill method.

Here's a quick summary:

- Remove the plastic under panel (to include the small panel you remove during oil filter change)
- Drain bolt for the transmission is a 24mm (you can use a 15/16 if you don't have a 24mm)
- I drained approximately 3.5 qts
- Used Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic
- I don't have service manual, so I tightened the drain bolt to 35 ft/lbs (based on some YT videos on the Palisade and Sorento)
- I also removed the front fill plug just to make sure I can see the new fluid overflowing out during the fill
- I used a long funnel and filled from the top fill hole
- I've put approximately 3 1/4 qts when it started overflowing from the front fill hole
- I secured the front fill plug and added another 1/4 qt of fluid (8 oz) on the top fill bolt / plug

NOTE:
- I basically replaced the same amount that I drained (3.5 qts)
- Be sure to fill SLOWLY when filling from the top fill hole--it will overflow if you just pour the transmission fluid
- Go through all the gears and take it for a test drive
- Check for leaks
Are you changing your transaxle and rear differential as well? I don’t have the AWD but just curious. My son drives a Mazda CX-9 (turbo and AWD) and looking to change his transmission fluid at 40k miles per my suggestion. Might as well change those, too! Thanks.
______________________________
 
Are you changing your transaxle and rear differential as well? I don’t have the AWD but just curious. My son drives a Mazda CX-9 (turbo and AWD) and looking to change his transmission fluid at 40k miles per my suggestion. Might as well change those, too! Thanks.
Yes. I plan on replacing both as well.

I took a peak yesterday and seemed very straightforward. I might have to get a hand pump to fill them. Although I did see that Valvoline has the flexfill that makes it easier to squeeze the fluid from the pouch container.
 
Yes. I plan on replacing both as well.

I took a peak yesterday and seemed very straightforward. I might have to get a hand pump to fill them. Although I did see that Valvoline has the flexfill that makes it easier to squeeze the fluid from the pouch container.
Been changing the rear differential in my Honda Pilot 2005 so I know what you mean with pumping the fluid. By the way, what did you use to loosen the fill bolt? Any extension? Is it tight in there? Thanks.
 
Been changing the rear differential in my Honda Pilot 2005 so I know what you mean with pumping the fluid. By the way, what did you use to loosen the fill bolt? Any extension? Is it tight in there? Thanks.

I didn't attempt to loosen the fill bolts, I just looked to see what I need to prep for.

I'll post some pix once I complete mine. Although it looks like that removing the spare tire would give you more room to maneuver with the rear differential.
 
Just had my transmission serviced at Www.levelten.com. Pat is the best in the business. Also had him do his Mr Flash computer upgrade.

______________________________
 
I just inquired with my service department regarding purchasing the fluid to complete this change . They said they cant sell me the fluid , asked if I had a flushing machine , and said drain and fill would require 3 fluid drops to complete . Or pay them $ 175 CAD

Side note , the diffs would cost $200 for the service dept. to fluid change .
 
I decided to replace my transmission fluid at 30K miles using the drain and fill method.

Here's a quick summary:

- Remove the plastic under panel (to include the small panel you remove during oil filter change)
- Drain bolt for the transmission is a 24mm (you can use a 15/16 if you don't have a 24mm)
- I drained approximately 3.5 qts
- Used Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic
- I don't have service manual, so I tightened the drain bolt to 35 ft/lbs (based on some YT videos on the Palisade and Sorento)
- I also removed the front fill plug just to make sure I can see the new fluid overflowing out during the fill
- I used a long funnel and filled from the top fill hole
- I've put approximately 3 1/4 qts when it started overflowing from the front fill hole
- I secured the front fill plug and added another 1/4 qt of fluid (8 oz) on the top fill bolt / plug

NOTE:
- I basically replaced the same amount that I drained (3.5 qts)
- Be sure to fill SLOWLY when filling from the top fill hole--it will overflow if you just pour the transmission fluid
- Go through all the gears and take it for a test drive
- Check for leaks
Thank you so much Husker for sharing the info and the experience. Very helpful.
 
I decided to replace my transmission fluid at 30K miles using the drain and fill method.

Here's a quick summary:

- Remove the plastic under panel (to include the small panel you remove during oil filter change)
- Drain bolt for the transmission is a 24mm (you can use a 15/16 if you don't have a 24mm)
- I drained approximately 3.5 qts
- Used Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic
- I don't have service manual, so I tightened the drain bolt to 35 ft/lbs (based on some YT videos on the Palisade and Sorento)
- I also removed the front fill plug just to make sure I can see the new fluid overflowing out during the fill
- I used a long funnel and filled from the top fill hole
- I've put approximately 3 1/4 qts when it started overflowing from the front fill hole
- I secured the front fill plug and added another 1/4 qt of fluid (8 oz) on the top fill bolt / plug

NOTE:
- I basically replaced the same amount that I drained (3.5 qts)
- Be sure to fill SLOWLY when filling from the top fill hole--it will overflow if you just pour the transmission fluid
- Go through all the gears and take it for a test drive
- Check for leaks
How is Valvoline Maxlife ATF working for you? Is it better than Kia tranny fluid or the same? Planning on changing mine this summer. I currently have 20k miles on my Telluride 2021. Thanks!
 
How is Valvoline Maxlife ATF working for you? Is it better than Kia tranny fluid or the same? Planning on changing mine this summer. I currently have 20k miles on my Telluride 2021. Thanks!
It’s working out pretty good. No issues so far.
I don’t really know if it’s better than OEM, but I’ll continue to use it. And probably use the same brand for the diff and transfer case.
______________________________
 
It’s working out pretty good. No issues so far.
I don’t really know if it’s better than OEM, but I’ll continue to use it. And probably use the same brand for the diff and transfer case.
That’s great! And thanks for the excellent instruction complete with pictures! This is what’s it’s all about—helping each other! Happy Easter to everyone here and to your family, as well!
 
Finally got around to try loosening the top fill plug!! I call it plug (versus bolt) because it’s made of plastic! This is very important before anything else—that is, before draining the fluid to make sure I can refill it. You can also use the front fill bolt/plug if you have a pump (available at walmart auto aisle). I found an old 10mm hex socket (less than $10 at Harbor Freight) and used a six inch (longer is better) sparkplug socket extender to reach the fill plug (see attached pictures). It is very tight to use a wrench in there (what did you use?). At any rate, I plan to change the tranny fluid before this summer. By then, my Telluride will be at around 22-24k miles. If I can change the fluid every 20k miles I will have changed it (drain and fill) three times by the time it reaches 60-70k miles (severe msintenance schedule)! I will be using Kia’s ATF SP4M1 (not sure yet if this is compatible with 2021 Telluride but I will inquire about this). Thanks!
 

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I just saw that Car Care Kiosk posted YT videos for checking the ATF but not for changing.

After watching the videos, there are some confusing steps such as removing the plug, starting the engine and heating the fluid to a specific temperature range then adding fluid and removing the plug again to watch it drain to determine the level. Makes me wonder what the service manual actually says.

 




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