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Oil consumption problems

I was thinking about your situation.I believe 2020 wss the first year for the Telluride.It usually is not a good idea to buy a product in its first year,as problems show up and they try to correct them in subsequent years.Someone else had a similar problem with the 2020.He is selling his car and buying another one (not a 2020 Telluride)
We're going through the same problem 2020 95k miles burning 2 quarts of oil within 4k miles and Valley Hi Kia has been giving us bs saying its normal. Did oil consumption test where you can verify how much oil they actually add the run for 1k miles . Almost positive the add about a half quart to 1 quart extra to compensate for the loss. GARBAGE
 
We're going through the same problem 2020 95k miles burning 2 quarts of oil within 4k miles and Valley Hi Kia has been giving us bs saying its normal. Did oil consumption test where you can verify how much oil they actually add the run for 1k miles . Almost positive the add about a half quart to 1 quart extra to compensate for the loss. GARBAGE
i thought they had to drain the oil and then measure how much they add back...come back in 1000 mi and they drain and measure it again...is that not how they do an oil consumption test?
 
i thought they had to drain the oil and then measure how much they add back...come back in 1000 mi and they drain and measure it again...is that not how they do an oil consumption test?
Sorry for the tardy reply. In a word; NO.

Back when I was with the BMW dealers and there were (are) oil consumption issues, we had to be sure the car was on level ground, car fully warm, remove dipstick (just after shutting off) and wipe well, fully insert and wait 15 seconds.
Hold the dipstick level and note level. Do not fill if less than 1L low. DO NOT over fill.

Instruct customer to leave it alone and NOT to add any.
Note Date/mileage/level on oil consumption sheet.

Dipsticks can be very accurate if the above constraints are adhered to.
Draining/refilling has WAAY too many variables for mistakes.

By this time, German car owners have given up and accept oil and coolant consumption as "facts of life.' Sigh...

I digress.
 
Sorry for the tardy reply. In a word; NO.

Back when I was with the BMW dealers and there were (are) oil consumption issues, we had to be sure the car was on level ground, car fully warm, remove dipstick (just after shutting off) and wipe well, fully insert and wait 15 seconds.
Hold the dipstick level and note level. Do not fill if less than 1L low. DO NOT over fill.

Instruct customer to leave it alone and NOT to add any.
Note Date/mileage/level on oil consumption sheet.

Dipsticks can be very accurate if the above constraints are adhered to.
Draining/refilling has WAAY too many variables for mistakes.

By this time, German car owners have given up and accept oil and coolant consumption as "facts of life.' Sigh...

I digress.
thanks for the info...makes sense...as long as the tech adheres to the standard operating procedure for the test so as not to screw the customer out of a new engine
______________________________
 
This past Monday, I decided to sell my 2020 Telluride. With mixed emotions, we sold it to CarMax and went to the Toyota dealership and bought a new RAV4. My 2020 was bought new just as Covid was hitting only had 54K on the clock but was consuming about 1.5 to 2 quarts of oil between changes at 5k or less. I was always checking the oil and usually adding some. Based on the oil consumption and many reports of transmission failures on other Tellurides I just didn't want to roll the dice. My wife loved the vehicle for it's ride and looks, but from my standpoint, it was a ticking time bomb. Our Kia dealership in Chattanooga is shady at best and I didn't want to have to take it to them if there was a major problem that should be covered by warranty. One of the few times I took it to them for an oil change (I usually did my own) I was in the waiting room and they texted me a picture of a really filthy, nasty air filter and asked me if I wanted them to replace it for $50. I told him no, I would change it myself. I thought I had just changed it a few months earlier. When I got home, I pulled the air filter out and it was almost completely clean and my records showed I had just changed it a few months ago. I realized then they had sent me a pic of a different air filter and tried to pass it off as my filter. I lost any confidence in them after that.
So with that in mind, we bought the RAV4, a little smaller, but the wife loves it and I think I will sleep a little easier now. I have owned 3 Toyotas and have always had good reliability with them. I will never have another Kia or Hyundai product based on this.
 
This issue could be caused by stuck oil control rings that can get clogged up over time. Valvoline has created an oil called "Restore and Protect" to address this specific issue and I started using it in my Telluride as a precaution. I'm happy so far and don't see a downside in trying it.
 
This issue could be caused by stuck oil control rings that can get clogged up over time.

I've been thinking about the above, quite a bit. Before I retired there was a BMW (very popular) engine that also used low drag piston rings. The M54 engine which was available in several displacements. This engine was the ultimate candidate for stuck (read clogged up) oil control rings/ring lands. This would start a domino effect of consumption, high crankcase oil vapor. Which led to more goo on the rings and then even more vapor. All the while with consumption numbers rising on this merry go round ride.

Liqui Moly actually produced an oil that specifically fought stuck/stuck oil control rings. Leichtlauf 5W-40. Once the rings were cleaned, use of this product (either proactively or as a follow on after cleaning) prevented the buildup creating the single biggest contributor to oil consumption: Stuck/fouled oil control rings. Some of the cars in my bays would consume a quart in 500-600 miles! Fouled plugs (check engine light) and poisoned catalytic converters were the result. Cleaning with chemicals (for the worst ones) and habitual frequent oil changes as follow on would most often solve or very significantly reduce the oil consumption.

The Asian product is new to me (BMW/European car tech all my life) albeit, modern pistons and piston ring design are the same in this CAFE governed world. Less ring drag equals higher MPG. Unfortunately many powertrain engineers design for a perfect world whereas everyone uses the correct oil, maintains the vehicle 100%, drives perfect drive cycles and always gets the engine oil warm on every drive. Reality is often NOT what I've just described.

I do still maintain an interest in my field, to that end here's but a small clip of the Telly engine 3.8L (G6DN) being torn down by one of my favorite dismantlers. If you want to know what the inside of your engine looks like; watch this. Especially poignant is his message starting @ 27 minutes.
You can see the hydraulic lifters and valvetrain at/about the 13 minute mark.
I must say that in general I'm impressed with the timing gear. Decent sized chain with good tensioning rails and tensioners. Having seen more than my fair share of lighter designs of late; all in the name of better economy, that ultimately fail and/or are problematic.


I'm unsure if the other flavor of the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf 5W-30 is safe for our cars? Since I'm no longer in business, I'm not really in touch with the Engineering department over at L-M. I may just try to reach out to my old contacts about the detergent-ability of the above 5-30 and use in the 3.8L Telly engine?
I must caution that GENTLE cleaning over time and not magical "Mechanic in a can" solutions are best. Real heavy-duty chemicals that work quickly often have additional consequences that often are undesirable.
As a generality the right oil, changed at active intervals (5-7,500 IMO) are most usually the ticket to engine and piston ring health. The old adage of; "A ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure." is applicable here!

Here's the Wiki page on our engines: Scroll down a little past halfway to the G6DN area. I was surprised (not shocked) to learn that it's an Atkinson cycle type of engine.


Cheers.
 




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