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Trailer Hitch

The Curt C51180 uses internal sensors to determine the brake timing and acceleration rather than vehicle wiring. The Bluetooth app just sets the braking profile then it operates independently with just the 4-wire and 12v power and ground in a 7pin connector. So if the phone loses connection it will still control trailer braking. But with only a 12v needed you could run a wire under the car to the battery and never splice. It sounds appealing.
I do understand Curt Bluetooth for lighter loads where you still want brakes and ease of install. Having towed a lot of heavy loads, there is no way I'd trust that with a 4500 or 5000 lb trailer over an electronic wired brake controller. If it's using sensors it's like surge brakes in the way you have a delay in braking. That and how does it react on bumpy roads etc. An electronic brake controller is modulating to your brake pedal input and adjusting to the gain you set. To each there own.

If I bought before realizing the towing limitations I'd def be fully wiring a brake controller. I'm not convinced yet all the wires aren't at the 12 pin connector at the factory 4 pin controller hookup. I hope someone replies that they have a multimeter and I can help them determine this. Then we may be able to easily install a real 7 pin hookup from the 12 pin connector.

Either way what keeps me from buying is the 351 tongue weight. The 7 pin is just my time to fix. The 351 lbs is engineering of the frame, cooling, brakes, powertrain etc that we can't solve...Kia engineering has to.
 
I do understand Curt Bluetooth for lighter loads where you still want brakes and ease of install. Having towed a lot of heavy loads, there is no way I'd trust that with a 4500 or 5000 lb trailer over an electronic wired brake controller. If it's using sensors it's like surge brakes in the way you have a delay in braking. That and how does it react on bumpy roads etc. An electronic brake controller is modulating to your brake pedal input and adjusting to the gain you set. To each there own.

If I bought before realizing the towing limitations I'd def be fully wiring a brake controller. I'm not convinced yet all the wires aren't at the 12 pin connector at the factory 4 pin controller hookup. I hope someone replies that they have a multimeter and I can help them determine this. Then we may be able to easily install a real 7 pin hookup from the 12 pin connector.

Either way what keeps me from buying is the 351 tongue weight. The 7 pin is just my time to fix. The 351 lbs is engineering of the frame, cooling, brakes, powertrain etc that we can't solve...Kia engineering has to.
Agreed on all points. I would much rather have all 7pins live and stick to traditional controllers, especially if I was towing over 3,500 regularly. But since I’m not always towing that much I’m curious about my options. I have read and re-read the manual a bunch of times and one thing I have wondered is if Kia just has a typo in the spec. Maybe instead of implying the hitch has a max TW of 351 they meant to say that with just a ball mount you should not exceed 351, but with weight distribution system on the trailer the TW is in fact rated at 500? Someone said that they thought the OEM hitch looked like it was actually made by Curt. I can’t imagine that Curt would make a 2” receiver rated for less than 500?
 
Agreed on all points. I would much rather have all 7pins live and stick to traditional controllers, especially if I was towing over 3,500 regularly. But since I’m not always towing that much I’m curious about my options. I have read and re-read the manual a bunch of times and one thing I have wondered is if Kia just has a typo in the spec. Maybe instead of saying the hitch has a max TW of 351 they meant to say that with just a ball mount you should not exceed 351, but with weight distribution system on the trailer the TW is in fact rated at 500? Someone said that they thought the OEM hitch looked like it was actually made by Curt. I can’t imagine that Curt would make a 2” receiver rated for less than 500?

The thing is the Sorrento always said 351 and pallisade says the same :( towing safety in Korea is not what it is here...so who knows how that factored in...so hard to say what the deal is. But the hitch itself prob can take 500...they are always overbuilt with dynamic load factors. Probably designed to 3 or 5x that. Wish we knew what the limitation was...could be the frame for all we know:(. I've also seen tellirudes sagging a lot in the back...so maybe suspension.
 
The thing is the Sorrento always said 351 and pallisade says the same :( towing safety in Korea is not what it is here...so who knows how that factored in...so hard to say what the deal is. But the hitch itself prob can take 500...they are always overbuilt with dynamic load factors. Probably designed to 3 or 5x that. Wish we knew what the limitation was...could be the frame for all we know:(. I've also seen tellirudes sagging a lot in the back...so maybe suspension.
Maybe someone in Kia Irvine, CA has the answer.
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I've been trying to find a trailer hitch for the Telly. You can see it listed as a option in the build but no part number is listed

https://www.kia.com/us/k3/content/m...2020_witch-w-harness--kia-2880x-optns-jpg.jpg

Anyone know how to order one?
Call the dealership. I,m in Canada I just ordered one yes
I've been trying to find a trailer hitch for the Telly. You can see it listed as a option in the build but no part number is listed

https://www.kia.com/us/k3/content/m...2020_witch-w-harness--kia-2880x-optns-jpg.jpg

Anyone know how to order one?
I ordered one yesterday at the dealership 505 Canadian plus tax and another 125 to install it.
 
So are we saying the factory installed hitch (Not dealer installed or aftermarket..) is a 2" sq receiver but only a 4 PIN electrical connector? What do you do for trailers with 5 PIN or 7 PIN round connections? Have to rig some other brake actuation wire? That would be a Zonk...
Check out YouTube I saw a video on there a guy installing one.
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We have one on ours, the only disappointment is it only comes with the 4pin plug.
Yes I was not pleased especially when I told them I wanted to tow a trailer not a utility trailer.. so I bought aftermarket 7 way and aftermarket brake controller
And installed them myself.
 
The 4 pin doesn't make any sense because the only way the Telluride tows 5000 lbs is with a trailer brake. Without a trailer brake I believe the tow rating is 1500 lbs.
I watched your YouTube video and did the 7way myself. Thank you Tim
 
The thing is the Sorrento always said 351 and pallisade says the same :( towing safety in Korea is not what it is here...so who knows how that factored in...so hard to say what the deal is. But the hitch itself prob can take 500...they are always overbuilt with dynamic load factors. Probably designed to 3 or 5x that. Wish we knew what the limitation was...could be the frame for all we know:(. I've also seen tellirudes sagging a lot in the back...so maybe suspension.
2016 AWD Sorento had a 500 lbs. tongue weight capacity for Canada, however not the USA - Owner's manual 5-104. However, for some reason they dropped it back to 350 lbs. for the 2017 AWD Sorento - Owner's manual 5-113. Speculating that the Kia engineers determined the platform (shared with the Sedona and the Telluride as it turns out and both have identical tongue weight limits) was just not up to the task. Interestingly, their Hyundai cousin, the Santa Fe is also built on the same platform, but featured a 500 lbs. tongue weight limit in the USA as recently as 2016 - Owner's manual 5-76. Not really sure what to make of it honestly.
 
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Hello Telly community. This is my first post. I just got my hitch installed yesterday. There are wires already run for the tow hitch adapter in the rear of the car. At least for my S model and the instructions were for all models.

I’m new to towing, but from what I read, 7 pin has additional 12v wiring, a round connector, and used for more heavy duty towing. Correct me if I’m wrong.

The wiring harness gets installed on the driver side of the back bumper. At the end of the instructions, there is a diagram of the pin outs. As stated, I have no prior knowledge about towing and the connectors. But if there is a need for an additional 12V can we not just jump IN-1 pin? Then cut the end of the 4 pin to retro fit a 7 pin adapter. Again, I do not know what wires are needed for 7 pin and today is the first time reading about 7 pin connector.

I am not positing the hitch installation, as I see someone already did that. Sorry in advance for the pictures being from my iPad and not PDF as I do not have access to a scanner at the this time. Last pic has the pin outs for hitch wiring.

This is for all the DIYer, Makers, Tinkerers, and Thinkers. Not sure if that was spelled "Tinkerers" right but "Hooked on Fonics didn't work for me. (Phonics) <= Not sure if everyone got that. And anyone who feels that having no 7 pin is a deal breaker.

Had I known it was this easy to install, I would have installed it myself and save the $150 they charged me for labor. But I had fun waiting at the dealership.

If we are all thinking the same, than no one is thinking.

IMG_0015.JPGIMG_0016.JPGIMG_0017.JPGIMG_0018.JPGIMG_0019.JPGIMG_0020.JPGIMG_0021.JPG
______________________________
 
Hello Telly community. This is my first post. I just got my hitch installed yesterday. There are wires already run for the tow hitch adapter in the rear of the car. At least for my S model and the instructions were for all models.

I’m new to towing, but from what I read, 7 pin has additional 12v wiring, a round connector, and used for more heavy duty towing. Correct me if I’m wrong.

The wiring harness gets installed on the driver side of the back bumper. At the end of the instructions, there is a diagram of the pin outs. As stated, I have no prior knowledge about towing and the connectors. But if there is a need for an additional 12V can we not just jump IN-1 pin? Then cut the end of the 4 pin to retro fit a 7 pin adapter. Again, I do not know what wires are needed for 7 pin and today is the first time reading about 7 pin connector.

I am not positing the hitch installation, as I see someone already did that. Sorry in advance for the pictures being from my iPad and not PDF as I do not have access to a scanner at the this time. Last pic has the pin outs for hitch wiring.

This is for all the DIYer, Makers, Tinkerers, and Thinkers. Not sure if that was spelled "Tinkerers" right but "Hooked on Fonics didn't work for me. (Phonics) <= Not sure if everyone got that. And anyone who feels that having no 7 pin is a deal breaker.

Had I known it was this easy to install, I would have installed it myself and save the $150 they charged me for labor. But I had fun waiting at the dealership.

If we are all thinking the same, than no one is thinking.

View attachment 2491View attachment 2492View attachment 2493View attachment 2494View attachment 2495View attachment 2496View attachment 2497
Thanks for the detail and the pics! One quick correction, most 7pin round connectors just have you plug in the 4pin flat into the back so you don’t have to cut the 4pin harness end. The big question becomes how to wire up the remaining 3 wires and with the Curt wireless solution you appear to only need 5 wires plus a ground. (4pin + 12v to battery source + ground).

That 12pin looks very promising!
 
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Thanks for the detail and the pics! One quick correction, most 7pin round connectors just have you plug in the 4pin flat into the back so you don’t have to cut the 4pin harness end. The big question becomes how to wire up the remaining 3 wires and with the Curt wireless solution you appear to only need 5 wires plus a ground. (4pin + 12v to battery source + ground).

That 12pin molex looks very promising!
I haven’t seen the pin outs for a 7pin. I just learned that this morning. I thought 4 pin was all universal. I’m in process of running errands but let me do a quick google search on some images when I get a chance. But anything can be retro fitted.
 
Thanks for the detail and the pics! One quick correction, most 7pin round connectors just have you plug in the 4pin flat into the back so you don’t have to cut the 4pin harness end. The big question becomes how to wire up the remaining 3 wires and with the Curt wireless solution you appear to only need 5 wires plus a ground. (4pin + 12v to battery source + ground).

That 12pin looks very promising!
My S did not come with the tow package, but I did pull off the black cover in the driver side behind the bumper and that 12 pin connector is sitting there. So the good news is that it should be a simple DIY. The frustrating part is when I looked closer there were only 6 wires. So my guess is that pins 1-6 are what goes to the harness and the 7 connects to 1, 8 to 2, 9 to 3, 10 to 4, 11 to 5, and 12 to 6. The 12 pin does not appear to have the reverse lights nor the output for a brake controller to head back to the front of the car.

So wiring the Echo wireless brake controller module still would be just use the 4 pin and run a wire with fuse to the battery or tap another 12v source and a ground. (Leave two disconnected.

To get the full 7 pins for a typical brake controller you would need to run a second wire along with the one to the battery as output to the brake controller and then also find a place to tap into the reverse lights which in the Telluride are in the hatch.
 

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Again I only have less than 2 hours of research on tow hitches. I've attached 4 in my life. I'm finding different kinds of connectors schematic online. Can anyone post a picture of it? Do different countries and manufactures have different 7 pins? Glad to help make some movement so people can save a few bucks and retro fit things for their needs. Also can a 4 to 7 pin adapter not be retro fitted to fit in that place of the original 4 pin? Have little time to do research due to a new role for work.
______________________________
 
My S did not come with the tow package, but I did pull off the black cover in the driver side behind the bumper and that 12 pin connector is sitting there. So the good news is that it should be a simple DIY. The frustrating part is when I looked closer there were only 6 wires. So my guess is that pins 1-6 are what goes to the harness and the 7 connects to 1, 8 to 2, 9 to 3, 10 to 4, 11 to 5, and 12 to 6. The 12 pin does not appear to have the reverse lights nor the output for a brake controller to head back to the front of the car.

So wiring the Echo wireless brake controller module still would be just use the 4 pin and run a wire with fuse to the battery or tap another 12v source and a ground. (Leave two disconnected.

To get the full 7 pins for a typical brake controller you would need to run a second wire along with the one to the battery as output to the brake controller and then also find a place to tap into the reverse lights which in the Telluride are in the hatch.
 
I need to find the reverse light wire for my surge brakes. Need the reverse light to back up the trailer. The reverse light deactivates the surge brakes.
 
My S did not come with the tow package, but I did pull off the black cover in the driver side behind the bumper and that 12 pin connector is sitting there. So the good news is that it should be a simple DIY. The frustrating part is when I looked closer there were only 6 wires. So my guess is that pins 1-6 are what goes to the harness and the 7 connects to 1, 8 to 2, 9 to 3, 10 to 4, 11 to 5, and 12 to 6. The 12 pin does not appear to have the reverse lights nor the output for a brake controller to head back to the front of the car.

So wiring the Echo wireless brake controller module still would be just use the 4 pin and run a wire with fuse to the battery or tap another 12v source and a ground. (Leave two disconnected.

To get the full 7 pins for a typical brake controller you would need to run a second wire along with the one to the battery as output to the brake controller and then also find a place to tap into the reverse lights which in the Telluride are in the hatch.
Perhaps we can follow the wiring directly from the source and reverse engineer and follow the factory wiring. Then way we can make our wires look OEM and get it to fit on that 12 pin. I do not think I need that 7 pin connector but would like to provide ideas and solutions. I’m sure a connector can be fabricated. If anyone has taken any trim off please provide pics of how to remove panels and of wiring.

If everyone is thinking the same, then nobody is thinking.
 




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