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DIY Transmission Fluid - Drain and Fill

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Finally got around to try loosening the top fill plug!! I call it plug (versus bolt) because it’s made of plastic! This is very important before anything else—that is, before draining the fluid to make sure I can refill it. You can also use the front fill bolt/plug if you have a pump (available at walmart auto aisle). I found an old 10mm hex socket (less than $10 at Harbor Freight) and used a six inch (longer is better) sparkplug socket extender to reach the fill plug (see attached pictures). It is very tight to use a wrench in there (what did you use?). At any rate, I plan to change the tranny fluid before this summer. By then, my Telluride will be at around 22-24k miles. If I can change the fluid every 20k miles I will have changed it (drain and fill) three times by the time it reaches 60-70k miles (severe msintenance schedule)! I will be using Kia’s ATF SP4M1 (not sure yet if this is compatible with 2021 Telluride but I will inquire about this). Thanks!
Would the 10mm hex socket fit for the front fill plug? Or what size did you used to open that?
 
Would the 10mm hex socket fit for the front fill plug? Or what size did you used to open that?
I didn’t go that far. But you will need 10mm hex socket at any rate for top plug. Once you have it, try it for the front fill plug.
 
Thanks for the awesome write up and pictures. This is extremely helpful. Do you have to use the top fill plug to add the new fluid? Why not use the front fill plug?
 
Top fill will achieve the same goal—but much easier because you won’t need a pump to fill.
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Take your time. Little by little. Put the same amount that you took out. Use 2 windshield wiper fluid empty containers so you can see the correct amount. And measure the same amount. You'll be just fine. Work with gravity. Fill from the top. Use the dealership transmission fluid. To keep the warranty. And always keep extra fluid in hand. In case of any spill. The last thing you want to do is run back to the dealership for more fluid. Remember take your time. Good luck.👍
 

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and Bridgeline does mean RUN back for fluid if the Telly is up on jacks. LOL
 
Doing my transmission atm. Instead of using the top fill plug, I decided I'm gonna just gonna use the side fill/leveling plug to pump the tranny fluid. But as soon as I unplugged the side fill plug a large quantity of fluid started gushing out. I wasn't ready for this (expected a trickle at most) so I now have a puddle on my garage floor. I have my car as level as can be on 4 ramps. If I used the leveling method instead of a fixed 3.5qt of fluid, I would end up with a lot less fluid in my tranny than the amount it came with from the factory. Perhaps they were overfilled from factory, who knows. I'm just going to fill it with 3.5qt as most of you guys have done instead of using the leveling method.

My vehicle just broke 50k, and tranny fluid is pretty dark. The drain plug had quite a bit of metal shaving on them. I would definitely advise you all to do yours 30-40k instead of waiting until 50-60k like me.
 
Doing my transmission atm. Instead of using the top fill plug, I decided I'm gonna just gonna use the side fill/leveling plug to pump the tranny fluid. But as soon as I unplugged the side fill plug a large quantity of fluid started gushing out. I wasn't ready for this (expected a trickle at most) so I now have a puddle on my garage floor. I have my car as level as can be on 4 ramps. If I used the leveling method instead of a fixed 3.5qt of fluid, I would end up with a lot less fluid in my tranny than the amount it came with from the factory. Perhaps they were overfilled from factory, who knows. I'm just going to fill it with 3.5qt as most of you guys have done instead of using the leveling method.

My vehicle just broke 50k, and tranny fluid is pretty dark. The drain plug had quite a bit of metal shaving on them. I would definitely advise you all to do yours 30-40k instead of waiting until 50-60k like me.
If ground/floor is level, the side fill helps to tell you that ATF has reached the proper level— the fluid will start to drip. The ramps are not necessary if top fill is used.
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If ground/floor is level, the side fill helps to tell you that ATF has reached the proper level— the fluid will start to drip. The ramps are not necessary if top fill is used.
Oh, btw I have been doing this side fill on my Honda Pilot’s 2005. Its VTM4 fluid (AWD) gear oil is filled from the side. I use a pump to fill it. When it starts to drip slowly, I stop and close that fill plug.
 
I guess I’m not reading OP’s posting carefully. He already mentions that 3 1/4 qt fills to the side fill plug and to fill the rest with side plug closed. He also said to pour slowly and I poured too fast causing a large burp, fluids everywhere.

Transfer case fluid change was pretty easy but differential fluid change was also challenging. Fill plug did not align well to the hole with rubber grommet. Had to use wrench instead. Hope fill plug stays put 😂 I just have brake pads,rotor, and fluid change and coolant flush left to do. Something for another day.
 
O' Wow. So sorry. Hope your okay. Wish I' was there to help. Doing transmission oil change is a skill. You have to "always" have a good Strategy. By prepping the work area first. Anyways, put back the amount you think you lost. Then measure the correct amount by checking the level. Till it trickles out the housing. At normal operating temperature 140F: Do not perform at hot temperatures. Use disposable gloves. Have black contractors garbage bag ready for emergency. Good luck.
 
Quick question: if you guys are doing drain and fill, you are just replacing the trans fluid and not the filter. At which point you will be replacing the filter? Would the flush service include a filter change also? Kia of Irvine California quoted me $150 for the trans flush, I am guessing that is just for the labor. It needs 7.4 qts of ATF SP4 and it costs $14/qt. Adding gasket and filter ($50), another $70 roughly, I am looking at around $450 for the trans flush? Is this a Kia I bought or a half Mercedes 🤪
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Just had my transmission serviced at Www.levelten.com. Pat is the best in the business. Also had him do his Mr Flash computer upgrade.

What is the drain plug with what looks like a rubber extension? Photo three.
 
Quick question: if you guys are doing drain and fill, you are just replacing the trans fluid and not the filter. At which point you will be replacing the filter? Would the flush service include a filter change also? Kia of Irvine California quoted me $150 for the trans flush, I am guessing that is just for the labor. It needs 7.4 qts of ATF SP4 and it costs $14/qt. Adding gasket and filter ($50), another $70 roughly, I am looking at around $450 for the trans flush? Is this a Kia I bought or a half Mercedes 🤪
I have watched many transmission change/flush videos, specifically looking for Palisade since I could not find that many videos on Telluride. Most of them were in Korean(Palisade=펠리세이드, transmission=미션) since only Palisade (no Telluride) are sold in Korea. Most of these videos showed multiple iterations of transmission fluid drain and fills (~3x plus) in order to remove as much old transmission fluid as possible (driving around in between). But none of them (mostly shops and few DIYers) involved changing of transmission filter, and I was wondering why. Looking up transmission parts at Rock Auto, I see transmission filters are sold along with drain pan gasket, so it's definitely there, but why none of these shops are not replacing the filter?

This video explains that accessing the transmission filter is not an easy job, and I imagine that it would involve a lot more than the meager $150 quoted by the dealership. If you do your transmission fluid change religiously at every 30k miles, I don't think you have anything to worry. The only time I would change transmission filter is if I need to rebuild my transmission.

This video shows disassembly of used transmission filter and explains why transmission filter change is not necessary, but regular fluid change is most important (30k/3yr). Also recommends early change for break in period, for the same reason as the engine oil.
 
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Thank you everyone! I just did my 60,000 miles transmission fluid change thanks to this post! As dirty as the fluid was, and the amount of metal pieces on the drain plug, I too wish I would have done it at 30,000 miles as well

Honestly, if you don't count the time to remove the plastic beauty panel underneath, it is actually easier than doing an oil change. You might as well change the oil at the same time while you got everything uncovered.

I too drained about 3.5 quarts. I put in about 3 quarts from above before it started flowing out the side fill port. I then closed the side fill port and added another 1/2 quart and called it good. They must over-fill these things slightly at the factory.

Has anyone who has done this more than once noticed as much metal shavings on the drain plug the second time around?
 
Thank you everyone! I just did my 60,000 miles transmission fluid change thanks to this post! As dirty as the fluid was, and the amount of metal pieces on the drain plug, I too wish I would have done it at 30,000 miles as well

Honestly, if you don't count the time to remove the plastic beauty panel underneath, it is actually easier than doing an oil change. You might as well change the oil at the same time while you got everything uncovered.

I too drained about 3.5 quarts. I put in about 3 quarts from above before it started flowing out the side fill port. I then closed the side fill port and added another 1/2 quart and called it good. They must over-fill these things slightly at the factory.

Has anyone who has done this more than once noticed as much metal shavings on the drain plug the second time around?
@wcarlson40 did you also do the transfer case and rear diff? transfer case was pretty easy (mind as well do this while front panel removed) but rear diff was not. I had to use adjustable wrench to loosen the fill plug because I didn't have the right extension. But rear diff fluid was definitely darker than the transfer case oil, so I'm glad I changed them. DIY'ers usually get these done at 30k also.
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@wcarlson40 did you also do the transfer case and rear diff? transfer case was pretty easy (mind as well do this while front panel removed) but rear diff was not. I had to use adjustable wrench to loosen the drain plug because I didn't have the right extension. But rear diff fluid was definitely darker than the transfer case oil, so I'm glad I changed them. DIY'ers usually get these done at 30k also.
Not yet, but that's my next planned thing to do. I'm learning one new thing at a time, but glad to know it sounds like those things are do-able too!
 
Not yet, but that's my next planned thing to do. I'm learning one new thing at a time, but glad to know it sounds like those things are do-able too!
Husker Soze also has a nice write up on transfer case & differential fluid change. I'm also learning as I go. The only thing I've done before was oil change, but now I'm so glad to learn transmission and other fluids are not that hard either, thanks to @Husker Soze
 
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Looks like many users are reporting differential going bad. Will regular fluid change prevent this from happening? Users also report the noise subsiding to much lesser degree after the fluid change.
 
I'll add a couple things to the excellent DIY write up.

1. The side fill and top fill plugs both can be removed with a standard 3/8" socket drive, no socket needed. So if you have a 3/8" socket wrench, it easily removes the side plug, the top plug needs extensions of course...
2. Open the drain plug and wait for it to drain completely before opening side plug.

Like others, I drained about 3.5 quarts. Quite easy thanks to the write up and pics. Thanks again.
 




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