Retrofit EX with SX LED headlights

[NDBlackEX]

it’s two bolts once the bumper is off. Removing the bumper is pretty straightforward, 8 bolts, 12 or so push clips; the only tedious part is popping the sides of the bumper out. After that it just pulls off.

Are the clips durable or would you reccomend the average person pick up a couple spares if they were to do this?

 

[machtig]

Are the clips durable or would you reccomend the average person pick up a couple spares if they were to do this?

The push clips are fairly durable in my experience. I’ve removed them a few times and all are still fully functional

 

[machtig]

I’ve completed the testing and have got everything sorted. The lamps work perfectly. I’ve got everything I need to start producing kits except more connectors, but more are enroute. If you are interested in me making you a plug and play kit please pm me. Kits will include everything you need except the headlamps themselves—plug and play harnesses to connect original headlamp wiring to the SX LED lamps, plug and play from harness to regulators, a pair of 8-40V to 13.8V regulators, and a custom aluminum no drill regulator mount. I drill and tap the aluminum mount and then bolt the regulator to it with stainless steel hardware then using industrial strength double sided 3M mounting tape you just attach it to your headlight crossmember on each side. Kits are $300 shipped.

 

[machtig]

Here’s one of the harnesses. Also I’m ordering a metal cutting bandsaw (For the aluminum mounts) and a few other specialty tools to make this a top shelf kit. I want it to look like it almost came from the factory this way.

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[alexdrums]

Here’s one of the harnesses. Also I’m ordering a metal cutting bandsaw (For the aluminum mounts) and a few other specialty tools to make this a top shelf kit. I want it to look like it almost came from the factory this way. View attachment 11258

Pretty groovy. I sent you a private message.

 

[Tellthemride]

Nice job troubleshooting the flicker. I think if you use heat shrink tubing instead of electric tape it would look 100% more OEM. Less likely the ends will unravel over time.

 

[machtig]

Nice job troubleshooting the flicker. I think if you use heat shrink tubing instead of electric tape it would look 100% more OEM. Less likely the ends will unravel over time.

I have a bunch of heat shrink I could use but it would be problematic with the "T" type harness making it look good. I might experiment with it. That said, if you look under your hood, you'll notice Kia is a BIG fan of electrical tape wrapped harnesses

 

[alexdrums]

Btw, in looking around eBay I noticed there are actually two parts to the OEM LED headlamps, The headlamp itself and the LED Driver Module that attaches to the back of it. So I wanted to doublecheck if the headlamps you purchased came with the driver module, but you still needed to use the additional regulators? Thanks!

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[GHT]

^^^ yes and yes

 

[machtig]

Yes. When you buy the lamps ensure it has that LED driver module and the aim adjusters.

for whatever reason the headlight control system of the halogen equipped Tellys does not like the SX led lamps and varies the voltage to the lamps. The regulators are the only thing I’ve found that plays well with the factory halogen headlam control system and provides a steady 13.8 V to the headlamps. And does so without throwing any lamp warnings. Although if a regulator were to fail the headlamp warning will activate on your dash to clue you in.

 

[mominhaq]

Yes. When you buy the lamps ensure it has that LED driver module and the aim adjusters.

for whatever reason the headlight control system of the halogen equipped Tellys does not like the SX led lamps and varies the voltage to the lamps. The regulators are the only thing I’ve found that plays well with the factory halogen headlam control system and provides a steady 13.8 V to the headlamps. And does so without throwing any lamp warnings. Although if a regulator were to fail the headlamp warning will activate on your dash to clue you in.

After reading through your thread, I am pretty close replicating this with a Kia Stinger. Going to be swapping the LED headlamps into my base trim that has halogens. Fortunately the connectors are exactly the same so all I need to do is connect the regulator inline

 

[machtig]

After reading through your thread, I am pretty close replicating this with a Kia Stinger. Going to be swapping the LED headlamps into my base trim that has halogens. Fortunately the connectors are exactly the same so all I need to do is connect the regulator inline

Yep, provided the pin wiring is the same, this kit would likely work. I only wire the regulators to the low beam lamps. All other lamps, including the high beams, work perfectly with direct connection through the plug and play harnesses.

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[mominhaq]

Yep, provided the pin wiring is the same, this kit would likely work. I only wire the regulators to the low beam lamps. All other lamps, including the high beams, work perfectly with direct connection through the plug and play harnesses.

Wired up the voltage regulator the it’s doesnt strobe anymore and the bulb warning is gone but it does flickr a few times. I think I should have bought the one you got. Mine is less powerful @ 12V 5A 60W

 

[machtig]

Wired up the voltage regulator the it’s doesnt strobe anymore and the bulb warning is gone but it does flickr a few times. I think I should have bought the one you got. Mine is less powerful @ 12V 5A 60W

Post some photos of your setup. I’d like to see your connections to the regulator. It shouldn’t flicker at all. The 12V 5A regulator should be plenty; the low beams only draw about 2.5A.

 

[mominhaq]

Post some photos of your setup. I’d like to see your connections to the regulator. It shouldn’t flicker at all. The 12V 5A regulator should be plenty; the low beams only draw about 2.5A.

 

[mominhaq]

Since I had bought two regulators, I tried the other one and that is doing much better. It still does go in and out very randomly for 1 or two times but after the car has been running for 5 minutes it seems to have stabilized. I think I’m gonna order the one you got to get rid of any inefficiencies that might be causing this. I would say this is semi success at this point

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[mominhaq]

No Voltage Regulator:

Bad Voltage Regulator:

Good(ish) Voltage Regulator:

 

[machtig]

Your last video looks like it should I think. What do you have that resistor wired to? You probably don’t need it. What I would recommend is you find a Stinger with factory LEDs and measure the Voltage going to the low beams when the car is running. And order a regulator that puts out a voltage as close as possible to that. For example a factory equipped LED Telluride sends 14V to the headlamps when the car is running so I now use regulators that send 13.85V to the lamps. Also double check all your wiring connections. It’s hard to tell where your ground wires go. Ensure the regulator’s yellow wire and the black wire right next to it go to the low beam and low beam ground, and the red wire and black wire right next to it go to the low beam feed and ground from the factory harness.

 

[machtig]

Also I would hook both sides up with the regulators and led lamps and retest; or completely disconnect one side. I don’t know for certain but running one side with the factory halogen and the other with the LED may be confusing the CANBUS lamp system and contributing to the flicker.

 

[mominhaq]

Your last video looks like it should I think. What do you have that resistor wired to? You probably don’t need it. What I would recommend is you find a Stinger with factory LEDs and measure the Voltage going to the low beams when the car is running. And order a regulator that puts out a voltage as close as possible to that. For example a factory equipped LED Telluride sends 14V to the headlamps when the car is running so I now use regulators that send 13.85V to the lamps. Also double check all your wiring connections. It’s hard to tell where your ground wires go. Ensure the regulator’s yellow wire and the black wire right next to it go to the low beam and low beam ground, and the red wire and black wire right next to it go to the low beam feed and ground from the factory harness.

The resistor is wired to the turn signals and it fixed the hyperflash.

The wires are connected like you are describing. I have a picture of the headlight assembly which says the power consumption. Low beams consumer 12V @ 40.7W for the LEDS and the halogens consume 60W. It would be difficult to find someone to let me measure the voltage on a LED equipped stinger.

I think you are right though, I just need a voltage regulator that puts out a steady voltage like the one I have in the last video. Would supplying over voltage at 13.8V kill the LEDS?