Thanks, curious to see if shows a max tongue weightI don’t recall seeing any markings on my factory hitch, but it does appear to be a Curt hitch.
So you think the Kia OEM hitch is actually made by Curt?I don’t recall seeing any markings on my factory hitch, but it does appear to be a Curt hitch.
I agree, that is the spec for the Curt solution for the Tucson/Sportage. But it sounds like at least one person who got the Telluride’s OEM hitch thinks that it might be a Curt hitch manufactured for Kia to OEM. So perhaps this is the answer to how to get to the advertised 5,000 lbs, with the 351 TW, you have to get the weight distribution add on to get from 3,510 to 5,000 lbs?Note that in the spec you quote that it says, “Rated TO 3,500 lbs. gross trailer weight and 525 lbs. tongue weight ...”. What the hitch itself is capable of is only part of the equation. The car’s frame strength, suspension, tires, etc., are also all factors in what the actual maximum hitch weight is. Regardless of what the hitch itself says, I would abide by the car manufacturer’s specification. In the same vein, just because a tire states a maximum inflation pressure of 65 psi, that doesn’t mean that is the right inflation pressure for the car. That, too, is determined by the vehicle manufacturer.
Like many others, I am concerned with the tongue weight. I need the 500 lb rating.I agree, that is the spec for the Curt solution for the Tucson/Sportage. Buy it sounds like at least one person who got the Telluride’s OEM hitch thinks that it might be a Curt hitch manufactured for Kia to OEM. So perhaps this is the answer to how to get to the advertised 5,000 lbs, with the 351 TW, you have to get the weight distribution add on to get from 3,510 to 5,000 lbs?
I think the issue is the confusion of the manual vs the marketing. The marketing says you can tow up to 5,000 lbs, but the manual only makes mention of the tongue weight and offers no guidance. So without weight distribution, the assumption is that you need the 500lb tongue weight but it may be that with an aftermarket weight distribution system you can use the 351 TW and still pull up to 5,000 lbs?If you need 500 lbs. tongue weight, then the Telluride is not for you. Kia specifies a MAXIMUM tongue weight of 351 lbs. Exceed that and you risk not only voiding your warranty, but also your safety and the safety of everyone else around you on the highway. I, too, tow a trailer, but abide by all recommendations and restrictions in doing so. It is the only safe and responsible way to tow.
Physics says it is not. You NEED 500lbs of tongue weight to tow 5,000 lbs. You can not safely tow 5,000 lbs with out 500lbs on the tongue weight.That would seem reasonable. The manual specifies max tow weight of 5,000 lbs., but only 351 lbs. max tongue weight.
By Kia’s own admission in the Telluride manual they recommend a brake controller. Hence the inconsistency when they offer a tow option with a lower than max tongue weight and an upgraded tow package that is self leveling shocks that don’t help you get any additional towing. Along with no easy 7-pin harness. The weight and brake requirements vary by state.
I got pre-installed. Very clean. Here are some early pics before I “cleaned up” all the badges and crap. I haven’t pulled a trailer yet.That looks pretty good. Did yours come with that pre-installed? I am having mine added by the dealership so hoping it looks the same as it seems well integrated. Do you know if the opening of the receiver is the standard size or is it the smaller opening? Thanks for posting the pics, much appreciated.
I emailed eTrailer about the Curt wireless controller to understand the wiring. Technically it does use the 7-pin connector but you don’t need to splice any wires to make it work. The 4 pin harness + black 12v and a ground. The blue and yellow wires aren’t used with the C51180 controller. So you could connect the 12v to the front of the car under the carriage right to the battery, or you could splice into the accessory 12v plug in the cargo space. It’s sounds like an intriguing option.Agreed. And this is not a new issue, unfortunately. We have a 2016 Sedona. It does a very nice job pulling our trailer (uses the same engine and platform as the Telluride, albeit slightly less powerful) but we have been very wary about upgrading to something bigger because of the need for an aftermarket installation. The Curt wireless brake controller has my interest, but you will still need to send a power wire up to the engine compartment to provide a 7-pin connection. Was eyeing the Telluride thinking that it might provide the mythical boost to 500 lbs tongue weight (as some AWD Sorentos have in the past couple years). But going to hold off on it until this is corrected in the future. It's an absolute joke the confusion they've created.
That makes it a very interesting option for the telluride, particularly since it already has the 7 pin mounting bracket. All you'd need to do is get a 4 pin to 7 pin converter, tap into the 12v wire and ground it and you'd be set. And the install would look very clean.I emailed eTrailer about the Curt wireless controller to understand the wiring. Technically it does use the 7-pin connector but you don’t need to splice any wires to make it work. The 4 pin harness + black 12v and a ground. The blue and yellow wires aren’t used with the C51180 controller. So you could connect the 12v to the front of the car under the carriage right to the battery, or you could splice into the accessory 12v plug in the cargo space. It’s sounds like an intriguing option.
Need the brake controller wire.That makes it a very interesting option for the telluride, particularly since it already has the 7 pin mounting bracket. All you'd need to do is get a 4 pin to 7 pin converter, tap into the 12v wire and ground it and you'd be set. And the install would look very clean.
Not if you are using the new Curt bluetooth controller.Need the brake controller wire.
The Curt C51180 uses internal sensors to determine the brake timing and acceleration rather than vehicle wiring. The Bluetooth app just sets the braking profile then it operates independently with just the 4-wire and 12v power and ground in a 7pin connector. So if the phone loses connection it will still control trailer braking. But with only a 12v needed you could run a wire under the car to the battery and never splice. It sounds appealing.Need the brake controller wire.