The EX and SX head unit is the same and I think the wires at the kick panel are identical. You can check by getting into the panel and using an old speaker or a removed door speaker to jumper into the clip. For example I used my fader to only play from my rear passenger side. Then I used an old speaker and 2 pins with some wire to make a soft of speaker tester. I pushed the pins into the clip so they would contact the wires I thought were the rear passenger side speaker. When the speaker played I knew i had the correct wires. You could also use a multi-meter. Anyway I am pretty sure they are the same between EX and SX for that harness.
-
Hint: Use a descriptive title for your new message
If you're looking for help and want to draw people in who can assist you, use a descriptive subject title when posting your message. In other words, "I need help with my SUV" could be about anything and can easily be overlooked by people who can help. However, "I need help with my transmission" will draw interest from people who can help with a transmission specific issue. Be as descriptive as you can. Please also post in the appropriate forum. The "Lounge" is for introducing yourself. If you need help with your leather interior, please post in the Interior section - and so on... This message can be closed by clicking the X in the top right corner. -
Amplifier install EX
- Thread author tyson3371
- Start date
The EX and SX head unit is the same and I think the wires at the kick panel are identical. You can check by getting into the panel and using an old speaker or a removed door speaker to jumper into the clip. For example I used my fader to only play from my rear passenger side. Then I used an old speaker and 2 pins with some wire to make a soft of speaker tester. I pushed the pins into the clip so they would contact the wires I thought were the rear passenger side speaker. When the speaker played I knew i had the correct wires. You could also use a multi-meter. Anyway I am pretty sure they are the same between EX and SX for that harness.
ElCangriz
Member
I utilized what in my personal opinion is the best amp for this project because it's a line converter and amp in one. With this amp you can create up to 6 channel control with just one small yet efficient amp... To those that own a LX model (don't know if other models have this issue as well) you know that when you raise the volume past "37" the bass drops and its like you're losing volume instead of gaining? well this amp has what its called accubass which brings that lost volume back!
I don't wanna sound like a advertiser but its just soOoo exciting and all tellurides should sound and look like greatness! after all being world car of the year!
Below is a link provided for you guys in which it also comes with a free $50 gift card that you can use to purchase the amp wiring kit or anything else you may need. If anyone has any questions im open to answers. The sound difference is AMAZING! what I love most of this amp aside that I don't have to deal with multiple amps and that I managed to install an amazing subwoofer that docent take up so much cargo space is the fact that the amp itself protects your speakers it will literally show you when your speaker is clipping so you won't blow out the speakers. (I am a total newbie at this and I got more satisfaction doing this myself than paying and outsider tons of money; best believe I've done my research)
Again... Everything I did on my Telluride is completely reversible, meaning if tomorrow I need to put it back as it came from the factory all I have to do is just disconnect what I added and connect the original wires... I did not cut or splice not 1 wire...
Below are the links of some of the items I used. Happy to help you all
Amp Link:
LC-6.1200 | 1200W 6-Channel Class-D Amplifier | AudioControlAudioControl LC-6.1200 + Free $50 Gift Card • 1200W RMS LC Series Class-D 6-Channel 2-Ohm Stable Amplifier • 750 Watts RMS x @ 4 ohms •1200 Watts RMS x 1 @ 2 ohms • 400 Watts RMS Bridged 4 ohm • 6 Preamp Outputs • AccuBASS bass control • Aluminum Alloy Chassis • 12" W x 7.95" L x 2.10" H
|
Subwoofer Link:
JL Audio 10W3v3-4 | 500 Watt 10" 4-Ohm Subwoofer
JL Audio 10W3v3-4 10" 4-Ohm Subwoofer • 500W RMS 10" W3v3 Series Single 4-Ohm Subwoofer • Sensitivity: 84.87 dB • Mounting depth: 5.93 " • Injection-molded mineral-filled polypropylene cone • Nitrile butadiene rubber surround •Customization trim ring • Floating Cone Attach Method • DMA...
Amp Wire Kit:
Stinger SK4241 4-Gauge Power Amplifier Installation Kit (SK-4241)
Stinger SK4241 • 4 Gauge 4000 Series Power Amplifier Installation Kit • 4 Gauge 4000 Series Power Amplifier Wiring Kit • Designed Specifically for Car Audio Systems up to 1500 Watts • Made from 100% Oxygen-Free Copper • HyperTwist Wire Construction • Tru-Spec Wire Gauge
What wire did you tap into for the remote signal for amps?
I didn't need to use a remote wire. The little kicker amp has a sense input feature that turns the amp on when it directs voltage change from the hi level inputs. It also makes it's remote wire a 12volt signal for a second amp and I used that for the Rockford amps remote turn on wire. Many of the newer line level inputs will have a sense function like that also and will provide a 12 volt out for your amps. In some cars they don't work very well but mine has been flawless so I would recommend using one of possible.
______________________________
So you tapped into front speakers, to an LC2i and then normal setup from there correct? Just tapped into the speaker connections with new wire? No cuts...
The doors use a clip to connect the wires. Here is a video about these and how you can run wires though them. I was going to connect to the end of the OEM wires and backtrack to the amp but decided not to when I found the clip. Instead I spliced the harness but I had not seen the video before I did that.
Plug BLOCKING wires? No problem! How to run speaker wire through door plugs!
Plug BLOCKING wires? No problem! How to run speaker wire through door plugs!
I used solder and heat shrink. I have never used those types of connectors before but I have used crimp style connectors and had good luck with them. If I were to redo it all over I would use crimps this time. Something like these. Closed End Crimp Terminal
Here is a video that covers all kinds of ways to connect wire together.
So many different ways to connect wires together
Here is a video that covers all kinds of ways to connect wire together.
So many different ways to connect wires together
______________________________
Ever thought about trying to order both sides of the connector from somewhere like this and make your own? I am considering that if I upgrade or add an amplifier.
Automotive Connectors | Connector Experts
Looking for the best automotive connectors on the market? Connector Experts has an expansive collection of products. Shop for top-quality connectors.
connectorexperts.com
Nope I did look at pac and metra to see if they had a T connector for the back of the head unit but they have not released one yet. I checked again now and they still don't list anything. I also just checked crutchfield and I really have no idea how long it takes for those kinds of parts to come out for a new vehicle. Connector experts is an interesting idea and I had no idea things like that could be bought separate so that's a great resource. Let us know if you use one of those.
Thanks for the help!
Attachments
jimmer3434
New member
Nice set up, are those two10s?
______________________________
jimmer3434
New member
Two*
Two 12s. Pancake pioneers TS-A3000LS4
They fit great. Hit hard. They rattle the storage top but when removed, really clear. The doors came off nice and easy, I wired from front speakers to the LC2i and kept the clarity all around with the factory components. Was pretty easy. That diagram was key! As I went through the door jam socket clip.
jimmer3434
New member
I was gonna ask if the compartment rattles. I also had that issue. To solve it I made a new cover out of 3/4 MDF traced from the original cover. I made a 10 inch hole in cover where my speaker would be below. I put a grill over it then covered in black carpet. No more rattle an sound is not baffled. Only issues I had was the handle didnt fit that great because of my bad cutout also I bought a flimsy grill that sunk in. I may replace with a new one some day but for now it is fine
Funny, that’s how I started...if it worked for you though I like it, I have another piece I can play with. You think it doesn’t rattle because of the weight, or the ventilation? Or both?
______________________________
Attachments
jimmer3434
New member
I would say both, plus the carpet!
asgalang
Active member
Thank you!!! Just installed an amp/sub on my LX, and definitely used your posts for reference. Thanks!
ernysan
Well-known member
Post some pics
asgalang
Active member
(Nevermind the messy cargo area)
I had the Rockford Fosgate P300-12 in my last car (Sportage), but it wouldn't fit/conceal well in the Telly. So I went with the P300-8 so I could place it in the storage compartment. It's a single amp/sub unit, and doesn't need a remote wire. It powers on when it detects the RCA input, so it was one less wire to splice into or run through the car.
I grabbed the RCA inputs from the kick panels noted/pictured from previous posts, and ran all wires (power, RCA, and controller) through the driver side kick panels, then through the storage area for the jack.
For a single 8, it's surprisingly loud. Will have to play with the settings a bit to tune it out, but well worth the time and effort.
