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Order In + A Couple Questions

The screen protector slips easily into the slot near the bottom of the infotainment screen. Centering can be tricky, so just pull back from screen slightly to realign. Touch response is very good, doesn't seem to be different than without protector.
 
i would like to know this as well
With the screen protector, do you have to press any harder to get a response? Thx!
I've noticed no difference in touch response. I do, however, think this is the slowest responding software of any car that I've experienced. Even if I actuate the hard buttons, screen changes take 1-2s.

Initially I just attached the protector to the exposed part of the screen, and it overlapped the top edge by 1/4". I thought the size was wrong and just about lost my mind. But I looked at product reviews and people explain that you have to slide it down....it wasn't very difficult. The alcohol and dust wipes they give you make it easy to clean the area before installation - mine is flawless, even having to have repositioned it.
 
bought the calinkit 3.0...installed it and my wife was having issues with it disconnecting while driving so i updated it...basically you just have it connected to your phone in your car and then go to a browser on your phone and type in the address 192.168.50.2 and it will show you the updates if there are any...
so after the update my wife is still having the carlinkit disconnecting or rebooting on her...any ideas?...i'll have to search a bit on here or start a new thread if i can't find an answer
 
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so i'm just getting all my ducks in a row...i've read here that these cars are shipped with semi synthetic oil...is this true for the 2022 model?...if so i may stick with semi synthetic or will using anything that doesn't meet the specs of the owners manual void the warranty?

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seems to be what everyone here is using for full synthetic...

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so after the update my wife is still having the carlinkit disconnecting or rebooting on her...any ideas?...i'll have to search a bit on here or start a new thread if i can't find an answer
returned it on amazon and ordered another one...if this one acts the same way we will return it and just use the phone cord until a better model comes out
 
Went to do paperwork and check out the car...everything was in place...hitch ball kit, brake controller harness and an extra set of locking lugs with key...wife took it for a drive and liked it...had to remind them about our deposit and the doc fee was 4x what it should have been so they had to fix that...took about 3 hours...will pick up the car sometime next week...was told 6-8 months...probably going to be more like 3 months

took a look under the hood...I think I could see where the top headlight bulb is to easily swap when necessary but not sure about the bottom one...I’ll have to poke around and see if there is a video...also what happens if the turn signal/halo light goes out?...does the whole headlight fixture need to be replaced?...same thing with the rear...the led strip lights in cars seem expensive to replace vs just a led bulb so I never really like buying a car with that design even though it looks nice...this is a fixation of mine cause in my legacy I need to take a wheel off and go through the wheel well to change a light bulb in my car and they go out often...awful design

any special tools I should keep in this car?...usually lug key, cross lug wrench, jumper cables, rags and some miscellaneous hand tools in a pouch...plan to put all these in the trunk compartment
Not to get off topic, but how did you know the doc fees were 4 times what they should be? I have no idea what "usual" doc fees are. I should have my truck in 2 weeks and I'm not looking forward to the financing part. It is always a hassle with them trying to upsell other services.
 
Not to get off topic, but how did you know the doc fees were 4 times what they should be? I have no idea what "usual" doc fees are. I should have my truck in 2 weeks and I'm not looking forward to the financing part. It is always a hassle with them trying to upsell other services.
searching on here for that particular dealer...they should have been around $500...the summary sheet had them at 4x that...they fixed it...but even $500 is too much in my opinion
 
new carlinkit came in yesterday...this one is different from the last one that we had returned...it has 2 ports on it...1 on each end...1 is a usb and the other is a usb C...she ordered it from the same link...the last one only had the usb c port...so maybe the first model was an older version?...she is going to set it up and run it without updating and see if it works...if it does great...if not we will update it and then try again...if it still disconnects we will send this one back also
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Not to get off topic, but how did you know the doc fees were 4 times what they should be? I have no idea what "usual" doc fees are. I should have my truck in 2 weeks and I'm not looking forward to the financing part. It is always a hassle with them trying to upsell other services.
Doc fees vary by state. Some states limit them, and dealers must abide by that; others do not set a limit.
 
Not to get off topic, but how did you know the doc fees were 4 times what they should be? I have no idea what "usual" doc fees are. I should have my truck in 2 weeks and I'm not looking forward to the financing part. It is always a hassle with them trying to upsell other services.
Google average new car doc fees for your state. Typical MA is $400. Where I live in NC, typical is $600.

Somewhat interesting, certain states cap these fees at a lower amount. I do not see a red state/blue state trend on the capping. West Virginia has a cap, the reddest of red states, as does California. Meanwhile, Connecticut does not, neither does Alabama. Kind of shows the strength of the auto dealer lobby state to state, as the states with caps are consistently A LOT lower in doc fees.
 
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You also cannot negotiate a dealer's document fee because they are required by law to charge the same amount to every customer.
 
Google average new car doc fees for your state. Typical MA is $400. Where I live in NC, typical is $600.

Somewhat interesting, certain states cap these fees at a lower amount. I do not see a red state/blue state trend on the capping. West Virginia has a cap, the reddest of red states, as does California. Meanwhile, Connecticut does not, neither does Alabama. Kind of shows the strength of the auto dealer lobby state to state, as the states with caps are consistently A LOT lower in doc fees.
I appreciate the info!! I found this: "The state of Maryland places a $300 limit on doc fees, and the average fee that you should expect to pay for documentation is $295.". At least I know what to expect. I hate dealing with dealers!
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The screen protector slips easily into the slot near the bottom of the infotainment screen. Centering can be tricky, so just pull back from screen slightly to realign. Touch response is very good, doesn't seem to be different than without protector.
I concur with his assessment of the screen protector. Mine had a suction cup to help with alignment. The only thing I had to be careful with was making sure the infotainment screen was dust free when installing the protector. Loved it while on vacation. Lots of use, and the protector screen was unnoticeable in regards to touch commands.
 
I concur with his assessment of the screen protector. Mine had a suction cup to help with alignment. The only thing I had to be careful with was making sure the infotainment screen was dust free when installing the protector. Loved it while on vacation. Lots of use, and the protector screen was unnoticeable in regards to touch commands.
My screen protector came with a suction cup too — very helpful. They also included 2 dust-catching stickers. It seemed like a new bit of dust would show up after I had picked up 3, but the stickers eventually cleaned them all off. My leisurely installation took 10 minutes.
 
new carlinkit came in yesterday...this one is different from the last one that we had returned...it has 2 ports on it...1 on each end...1 is a usb and the other is a usb C...she ordered it from the same link...the last one only had the usb c port...so maybe the first model was an older version?...she is going to set it up and run it without updating and see if it works...if it does great...if not we will update it and then try again...if it still disconnects we will send this one back also
New one acted the same as the last...software was updated...planning to return it and wait a year or 2 to see if the tech can catch up
 
Can you please explain how this works? It seems to me that I still have to have this thing plugged into USB port to get "wireless" music from my phone. Or do you just have to plug it in for initial pairing? Does this adapter have to be sitting in the car down by the USB ports the whole time? I assume they make a similar one for Android Auto.
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Telluride's CarPlay normally works by using a USB cable plugged into your Apple iPhone and the center USB port. To enable wireless CarPlay so that you do not have to plug in the iPhone, you need the CarlinKit adapter plugged into the USB cable instead of the phone. The adapter stays connected to the car all the time and power to the port is on when you start the car. The adapter activates in about a minute or so after starting the car and generates a wifi signal for the iPhone to see. Once paired and if the phone is in the car, CarPlay is available without being plugged in. For me, it's very convenient to not have to take my phone out of my pocket. There are two physical versions, one has the USB cable permanently attached and the other has a detachable cable (which I have) so you can use different length cables. There are also software versions, original, 2 and 3, and I don't know what the differences are, I have CarPlay 2 and it works great. Haven't done an upgrade yet to 3.

For other people with Android phone, there's a different adapter. See other thread postings.
 
Telluride's CarPlay normally works by using a USB cable plugged into your Apple iPhone and the center USB port. To enable wireless CarPlay so that you do not have to plug in the iPhone, you need the CarlinKit adapter plugged into the USB cable instead of the phone. The adapter stays connected to the car all the time and power to the port is on when you start the car. The adapter activates in about a minute or so after starting the car and generates a wifi signal for the iPhone to see. Once paired and if the phone is in the car, CarPlay is available without being plugged in. For me, it's very convenient to not have to take my phone out of my pocket. There are two physical versions, one has the USB cable permanently attached and the other has a detachable cable (which I have) so you can use different length cables. There are also software versions, original, 2 and 3, and I don't know what the differences are, I have CarPlay 2 and it works great. Haven't done an upgrade yet to 3.

For other people with Android phone, there's a different adapter. See other thread postings.
The problem with Android Auto, there are two crowdfunded solutions - both work pretty well but the wait time is about six months, from what I understand. Nothing readily available to buy :-/
 
first issue...looks like it's dripping from the passenger side near the front wheel...saw the leak once the wife left for work...hopefully something is just loose...i'll have to look up the lifting points on this car and jack it up tonight

floor jack location...owners manual is useless other than to find the side jacking locations...

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jacked it up last night and i was not able to find anything due to the storm washing everything off when she drove home...i looked on top of the plastic belly pan, nothing in the area of the oil pan/oil filter/plug...it seems like it leaked from somewhere behind the front passenger wheel cause i measured out the circumference of the wheel with a string and it matches up to the tire rolling through it and creating the second oil mark farther back...i am wondering if something leaked behind the back portion of the wheel well plastic and ran down that and into the splash guard but i really am not sure...i even saved the dirty rag i used to wipe it up in a ziplock back like monica lewinsky like it will get tested to prove that it came from that car if it explodes or something lol...anyone have any ideas?...i may have to put all this in it's own thread...at the moment i'm going to keep an eye on it...engine oil level seemed ok...the oil on the garage floor is much darker than the engine oil as well

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